I went to get my inspection done on my vehicle and failed. Because my breaks where %26quot;unbalanced%26quot;. So I took my car to a mechanic with a note saying my breaks where unbalanced. They resurfaced my rotors which were only 6 months old, changed my breaks, and changed the brake fluid. I went back and it failed once again for the same reason. What else could this unbalanced breaks be? From what the guy at the inspection facility explained to me it鈥檚 that my back wheels are breaking unevenly, and that is also what鈥檚 causing my wheel to shake when I do break. Please help! I have a month to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it. Also it%26#039;s a 2001 hyundai sante fe.!|||I have been in the car business for over 10 years, with Hyundai for over 5 and I have never heard of unbalanced brakes. What I think they may be telling you is your caliper is sticking.
Brake systems are simple. You apply the pedal, fluid is sent to the caliper, a piston extends and pushes the pads against the rotor, slowing the vehicle.
There are generally more problems with rear brakes simply because they don%26#039;t have to work as hard as the front. I suggest a brake service. The technician should remove the pads and service them and the slides, the caliper assembly is sanded for rust and treated with a special lubricant.
I%26#039;m not sure of the regulations in your state, but in NY, you only fail a vehicle inspection if your brakes are metal to metal.
Hyundai suggests front and rear brake services every 15,000 miles.
Saturday 4 June 2011
How much of the OLD fluid should I put back in after changing and SERVICING my Auto Trans? Not Flushing......?
Hello. I feel like -servicing- an Auto Trans with 150,000 miles on it is OK, but -Flushing- it is not.
I basically think (correct me if I am wrong) that Transmission Flushes - especially the ones that shops do with the machine - WILL kill an older Trans basically because they break loose old crap that kills the trans, and you had a working trans and now it doesnt work (ATFs work through th efluid.)
I also am thinking that if you DROp the pan, CATCH about... oh... as much as a Gallon (4 quarts) of the old mystery good stuff lol, and then:
1) CLEAN the screen (I have heard you clean it, not replace it) and
2) CHANGE the gaskets,
3) LOOK AT the Front Seal.....
4) Change the Filter...
and 5) get all the metal shavings and crap that WILL be in the pan OUT....
and THEN 6) Put back in Valvoline MaxLife ATF (and I am wondering how much of the old stuff, not touching the torque converter, but also checking and maybe replacing the vacuum lines) ...
... that in doing this you have not Flushed the transmission, maybe replacing only about 1/3 of the fluid with new MaxLife fluid, and will be ready to do it again in another 150,000 miles. :)
Is this a good thinking, or no?
And how mich of the old fluid - should- be put back in to avoid the Instant-Dead trans that happens when you DO flush like an idiot?|||Filter and screen are one in the same. You don%26#039;t put one drope of the old fluid back in.|||Measure the number of quarts of old fluid drained from the transmission using the empty quart bottles and refill with the same amount. Check the hot fluid level later.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.a鈥?/a>|||find the history of the vehicle.........IF THE FLUID WAS NEVER CHANGED IN 150K MILES, DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT CHANGE IT NOW......all your good intentions will lead to a host of leaks.........if it weren%26#039;t changes in 150k miles, there is sludge on the bottom sealing any leakage.....new fluid with cleansers will promote the seals to leak..........leave well enough alone if you have no problems shifting....
I basically think (correct me if I am wrong) that Transmission Flushes - especially the ones that shops do with the machine - WILL kill an older Trans basically because they break loose old crap that kills the trans, and you had a working trans and now it doesnt work (ATFs work through th efluid.)
I also am thinking that if you DROp the pan, CATCH about... oh... as much as a Gallon (4 quarts) of the old mystery good stuff lol, and then:
1) CLEAN the screen (I have heard you clean it, not replace it) and
2) CHANGE the gaskets,
3) LOOK AT the Front Seal.....
4) Change the Filter...
and 5) get all the metal shavings and crap that WILL be in the pan OUT....
and THEN 6) Put back in Valvoline MaxLife ATF (and I am wondering how much of the old stuff, not touching the torque converter, but also checking and maybe replacing the vacuum lines) ...
... that in doing this you have not Flushed the transmission, maybe replacing only about 1/3 of the fluid with new MaxLife fluid, and will be ready to do it again in another 150,000 miles. :)
Is this a good thinking, or no?
And how mich of the old fluid - should- be put back in to avoid the Instant-Dead trans that happens when you DO flush like an idiot?|||Filter and screen are one in the same. You don%26#039;t put one drope of the old fluid back in.|||Measure the number of quarts of old fluid drained from the transmission using the empty quart bottles and refill with the same amount. Check the hot fluid level later.
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.a鈥?/a>|||find the history of the vehicle.........IF THE FLUID WAS NEVER CHANGED IN 150K MILES, DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT CHANGE IT NOW......all your good intentions will lead to a host of leaks.........if it weren%26#039;t changes in 150k miles, there is sludge on the bottom sealing any leakage.....new fluid with cleansers will promote the seals to leak..........leave well enough alone if you have no problems shifting....
When do you flush out all your fluids for a 2007 toyota highlander?
I only have 10,400 miles on it and i was wondering when are you suppose to flush out your oils/fluids and change your break pads?|||dont have to flush anything for years just replace an d you change oil 3000 mile transmission fluid about 60,000 tuen up abouty 60 ,000 rotate tire same time oil change like check brake pads to know how much pad is left by looking at pad if pad is thicker than medal backing plate to which its glue to your good but if they thinner than or about as same its time most like about 60,000 miles or so first time ..id say your manual wil have all this info of when and what needs done oil change pass due a few times over if you have not brakes should be good another year or two but having them check never hurts to know should have your car check for signs at least once a yr to to keep up on it... bad to wait til you hear them grind.. well do you good to look up car care or how to care for car you will learn much and more you learn longger car last and less problems and keep you from being taking if you know a few things also
Can constant fluid transcendence and change from one geometric form to another at ones own speed or frequency?
One of the characteristics of the Golden Mean Spiral is that it continues on in ever diminishing spirals. The spiral soon becomes so infinitesimal that, theoretically, it could break the plane of one dimension and enter another dimension. Once it does this it could begin again inside another dimension as a comparatively large spiral, working its way down to becoming smaller yet again until it would break that dimensional plane and move into another one and onward into infinity. Even though this is a linear model, it will be sufficient to demonstrate the basic idea.|||are u sure u are asking in the right category?|||Did you know that the Seventh-day Adventist Church is God%26#039;s true Christian Sabbath(saturday) keeping Church?
We must preach the everlasting Gospel and keep the Biblical Sabbath(Saturday) day Holy.
God%26#039;s true Church believes that Jesus is God.
God%26#039;s true Church believes in the Trinity.
God%26#039;s true Church believes in the death of Christ on the Cross.
God%26#039;s true Church will uphold the Moral Law(Ten Commandments)
God%26#039;s true Church will Baptize by Immersion not Sprinkling.
God%26#039;s true Church will not eat Unclean Foods(Pork, Catfish, etc.)
God%26#039;s true Church will be a Worldwide Church preaching the message of Christ.
God%26#039;s true Church will teach Biblical literal six day Creation. NO Evolution.
God%26#039;s true Church will have the gift of Prophecy.
God%26#039;s true Church will preach Salvation by grace through faith in Jesus Christ.
God%26#039;s true Church will stand against Sexual Immorality. Homsexuality, Adultery and Fornication are Sins.
God%26#039;s true Church will preach against Strong drink. Alcohol is not allowed. (Proverbs 20:1).
Remember God%26#039;s true last day Church will not be a popular Church. Most people will attack God%26#039;s Biblical Church with vigilance. Satan himself will attack God%26#039;s Church(Revelation 14:12) Truth crushed to the ground will always rise to the top.
We must preach the everlasting Gospel and keep the Biblical Sabbath(Saturday) day Holy.
God%26#039;s true Church believes that Jesus is God.
God%26#039;s true Church believes in the Trinity.
God%26#039;s true Church believes in the death of Christ on the Cross.
God%26#039;s true Church will uphold the Moral Law(Ten Commandments)
God%26#039;s true Church will Baptize by Immersion not Sprinkling.
God%26#039;s true Church will not eat Unclean Foods(Pork, Catfish, etc.)
God%26#039;s true Church will be a Worldwide Church preaching the message of Christ.
God%26#039;s true Church will teach Biblical literal six day Creation. NO Evolution.
God%26#039;s true Church will have the gift of Prophecy.
God%26#039;s true Church will preach Salvation by grace through faith in Jesus Christ.
God%26#039;s true Church will stand against Sexual Immorality. Homsexuality, Adultery and Fornication are Sins.
God%26#039;s true Church will preach against Strong drink. Alcohol is not allowed. (Proverbs 20:1).
Remember God%26#039;s true last day Church will not be a popular Church. Most people will attack God%26#039;s Biblical Church with vigilance. Satan himself will attack God%26#039;s Church(Revelation 14:12) Truth crushed to the ground will always rise to the top.
Break lines on an 04 F150?
We were driving down the road and went to stop and the peddle hit the floor. After looking at the Tuck there is Break fluid all over the side of the bed starting at the rear tire. I changed the front breaks about 2-3 weeks ago no issues till Friday.|||Hey gal i am a mech and from what u say it seems that the break lines must have hit a leak. this prob can be changed without strain and aint gonna cost u much. this might have happened as the work on the brakes were done there might have been a crack in the brake oil pipe most probably or container and that when u hit the brake the last time the pressure being intence the pipe or container would have given away to the pressure.|||DEALER...STILL UNDER WARRANTY? INSPECT CALIPER AND BRAKE HOSE ON SUSPECTED SIDE. BRAKE LINES DON%26#039;T RUPTURE/BREAK UNLESS SOMETHING COMES IN CONTACT WITH THEM.
2004 BMW 320i Service Question?
My service adviser told me that my car would not tell me when service is required (like changing oil break fluid, etc). It only tells me when repair is needed. It that true?|||You should get OIL SERVICE or INSPECTION light come up on the dash according to my experience and information on this model.
Are you sure it was not the work experience boy you spoke to?|||the owners manual or attached service guide will tell you when servicing is suggested by manufacturer. They usually go by mileage but may vary if severe service use is applicable.
Some of these scheduled servicings are expensive and if you do not keep to some of the maintenance items, at least do the timing belt if it uses a belt. and of course, tuneup and filters.|||Generally that%26#039;s true. There is a maintenance guide with your vehicle. Your oil should be changed about 3-4 thousand miles. Your guide will tell you more about different fluids. Most of the lights go on when there is already problem.|||kind of yes when you get any light then your pass due...and on the edge of damaging anything that light on .. most people go by miles drove at when they should a service job or maintenance.. and most people go ovcer what they should with them all causing problem more and costing more if they had done it right to start with.. an dmany things can be done at home to keep it right many are easy done both these site wil help you keep up on what and when and even how and thats how you save the car and your money never relay on the lights as a good time to do anything lights are warning to stop and get it done then better you learn some to keep your car going
Are you sure it was not the work experience boy you spoke to?|||the owners manual or attached service guide will tell you when servicing is suggested by manufacturer. They usually go by mileage but may vary if severe service use is applicable.
Some of these scheduled servicings are expensive and if you do not keep to some of the maintenance items, at least do the timing belt if it uses a belt. and of course, tuneup and filters.|||Generally that%26#039;s true. There is a maintenance guide with your vehicle. Your oil should be changed about 3-4 thousand miles. Your guide will tell you more about different fluids. Most of the lights go on when there is already problem.|||kind of yes when you get any light then your pass due...and on the edge of damaging anything that light on .. most people go by miles drove at when they should a service job or maintenance.. and most people go ovcer what they should with them all causing problem more and costing more if they had done it right to start with.. an dmany things can be done at home to keep it right many are easy done both these site wil help you keep up on what and when and even how and thats how you save the car and your money never relay on the lights as a good time to do anything lights are warning to stop and get it done then better you learn some to keep your car going
Car problems- breaks!!?
i don%26#039;t know what wrong
i changed break fluid because the container was very low
but still when i pump on the break it goes in blank and i almost can%26#039;t stop the car -
somebody said there might be a leak somewhere
what to do?|||Have the car looked at immediately. You may have a bad master cylinder, bad or leaky wheel cylinders or a bad power booster. Don%26#039;t drive it unless you absolutely have to.|||when container is low it don%26#039;t mean you need to add more oil it says you need to replace your brake pads and rear shoes, its an indicator
when you hit the brake if you cant stop is because you may have a leak and the brake line grab air and that%26#039;s why it cant stop
you have bleed all brake system to take out all the air in the system and of course fix the leak it can be a brake hose and in most cases are the rear brake cylinders (you don%26#039;t see it leak because drum is sealed and it must have all brake oil inside)
what to do.... go for a shop immediately|||u need two to help u find the leak if there is a full up the master cyl with brake fluid, and the brakes and have your friend walk arond the car looking for fluid dripping|||Low brake fluid is an indication of brakes needing changed or you have a leak. If you have filled it up and it keeps going down you do have a leak. Take it to a shop and have them look at it ,it shouldn`t cost anything and then get back to us and we will try to lead you to the cheapest route.|||It sounds like their may be air in the line if it pumps up and stays hard then goes to floor that is probably the problem|||Stop driving the car! You don%26#039;t want to get in an accident and hurt or kill yourself or someone else because your brakes are bad.
You need to have your brake system inspected as soon as possible. You have either worn out your brake pads or have a leak somewhere.
You never want to take chances with your brakes. Get them looked at today. Most places will look at them for free.
i changed break fluid because the container was very low
but still when i pump on the break it goes in blank and i almost can%26#039;t stop the car -
somebody said there might be a leak somewhere
what to do?|||Have the car looked at immediately. You may have a bad master cylinder, bad or leaky wheel cylinders or a bad power booster. Don%26#039;t drive it unless you absolutely have to.|||when container is low it don%26#039;t mean you need to add more oil it says you need to replace your brake pads and rear shoes, its an indicator
when you hit the brake if you cant stop is because you may have a leak and the brake line grab air and that%26#039;s why it cant stop
you have bleed all brake system to take out all the air in the system and of course fix the leak it can be a brake hose and in most cases are the rear brake cylinders (you don%26#039;t see it leak because drum is sealed and it must have all brake oil inside)
what to do.... go for a shop immediately|||u need two to help u find the leak if there is a full up the master cyl with brake fluid, and the brakes and have your friend walk arond the car looking for fluid dripping|||Low brake fluid is an indication of brakes needing changed or you have a leak. If you have filled it up and it keeps going down you do have a leak. Take it to a shop and have them look at it ,it shouldn`t cost anything and then get back to us and we will try to lead you to the cheapest route.|||It sounds like their may be air in the line if it pumps up and stays hard then goes to floor that is probably the problem|||Stop driving the car! You don%26#039;t want to get in an accident and hurt or kill yourself or someone else because your brakes are bad.
You need to have your brake system inspected as soon as possible. You have either worn out your brake pads or have a leak somewhere.
You never want to take chances with your brakes. Get them looked at today. Most places will look at them for free.
Does anyone know how to change the transmission fluid in a 151-A2 Ford Mutt Army Jeep?
The drive shaft broke and the transmisison fluid was drained when repairing, now we can not find out where to add transmission fluid.|||here is a site with free down loadable operator%26#039;s manual for the m151
http://www.mil-plus.com/DesktopDefault.a鈥?/a>
this is also a good site to ask questions about the m151
hope this helps|||If it%26#039;s a manual, bring it to a auto shop. They%26#039;ll know where to do that. If it%26#039;s an automatic, there will be a place to check the fluid underneath the hood. That%26#039;s where you will add the fluid.|||You add fluid through the pipe the transmission dip-stick goes into.
http://www.mil-plus.com/DesktopDefault.a鈥?/a>
this is also a good site to ask questions about the m151
hope this helps|||If it%26#039;s a manual, bring it to a auto shop. They%26#039;ll know where to do that. If it%26#039;s an automatic, there will be a place to check the fluid underneath the hood. That%26#039;s where you will add the fluid.|||You add fluid through the pipe the transmission dip-stick goes into.
Where is the "brake fluid reserve" located on my 03 Buick park avenue ultra "supercharged six?
In the manual it tells me to check it along with all the other items listed. I cannot find it anywhere. I understand that if you hear it %26quot;spuealing a little%26quot; the fluid should be changed because it breaks down after xxx amount of miles. help|||usually it is on the firewall, on the drivers side, a small cap says brake fluid. I disagree with the squealing being due to the fluid, that is the brake shoes. I%26#039;ve also never heard of changing the brake fluid, Be careful , some one might tell you to lube your muffler bearings. Good luck!|||It%26#039;s the plastic reservoir on top of the master cylinder. It may be covered by a plastic shroud, but it will say %26quot;brake fluid only%26quot; DOT 3 etc.
1999 malibu my break and abs lights are on in my dash my fluid is full but when i wiggle the sensor on the ?
side of the cyninder they go out i snaped of the piece on the sensor ans waited a minute and snaped it back in but the lights came back on the dash .how do i replace the sensor or stem the part connected to the cyninder does it pull off or twist off i dont want to break it its a 12 dollar part i should be able to change it out .. help..thanks |||should twist off.. but i would get a haynes repair manual to be sure because all cars are different... good luck!
Should i change the transmission fluid on my van?
I have a windstar which are notrious for transmission problems. The car has 157000 miles and has taken us on a lot of road trips. I am afraid if i change the fluid it will dislodge some gunk in the transmission and screw it up. The car has not been properly maintained. So should i fix what ain%26#039;t broken?|||that trans dont owe you anything, keep your change in the bank, you owe the trans if you get my drift.|||dislodging gunk in a trans is rare. Transmissions do not sludge up like engines do. However there have been cases where changing the trans fluid has made the trans worse. Here is the best explanation on why this happens:
Automatic transmissions have moving parts and fiber discs or clutches, not to be confused with a clutch in a manual transmission. These moving parts over time wear and release tiny particles into the fluid. On some transmissions that have never had the fluid changed and have severe wear, that old fluid is full of those particles. When you drain that old fluid out and then refill the transmission with new slippery fluid that does not have those particles, it can cause the clutches in the transmission to slip. Why now though? Simple, they are worn out and they had gritty fluid to help them grab or not slip. Now that gritty fluid is gone, replaced with smooth fluid.
Its a gamble to change it, but I think you should be ok to change it if there is no current slippage.
Automatic transmissions have moving parts and fiber discs or clutches, not to be confused with a clutch in a manual transmission. These moving parts over time wear and release tiny particles into the fluid. On some transmissions that have never had the fluid changed and have severe wear, that old fluid is full of those particles. When you drain that old fluid out and then refill the transmission with new slippery fluid that does not have those particles, it can cause the clutches in the transmission to slip. Why now though? Simple, they are worn out and they had gritty fluid to help them grab or not slip. Now that gritty fluid is gone, replaced with smooth fluid.
Its a gamble to change it, but I think you should be ok to change it if there is no current slippage.
Does anyone know anything about Advance trak light being on in car?
Lincoln LS 2002....advance trak light is on...
man, im starting to have some issues with this car. I LOVE this car but boy is it expensive. I just put breaks on,got oil change,and break fluid. This was 300 dollars already. NOW my advance trak light is on. Does anyone know why its on and how much its going to cost to get fixed? car only has 61k miles on it...|||try here http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=Lincoln鈥?/a>
man, im starting to have some issues with this car. I LOVE this car but boy is it expensive. I just put breaks on,got oil change,and break fluid. This was 300 dollars already. NOW my advance trak light is on. Does anyone know why its on and how much its going to cost to get fixed? car only has 61k miles on it...|||try here http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=Lincoln鈥?/a>
When I drive sounds like something rattles by the top left tire. When I break something grinds very loud?
I took off the tire and nothing seems to be loose and filled the break fluid. And another thing is not to long ago the brakes were changed. The brakes aren%26#039;t worn down. It is a 1996 Dodge Caravan. ANYONE?|||did you check all of your brakes? sometimes sounds can seem like they are coming from somewhere else. Sounds like your struts may be worn out and when you drive they rattle and bounce but would be hard to see that when not driving. Have your brakes checked by the people that replaced them.|||yuor brakes may heve a retainer clip that is missing check that|||get some new breaks...O yeah also check to see if your oil needs to be changed and see bout a new engine|||Have your rear wheel brakes checked and your front brakes checked again.|||If you have good brakes check the struts or shock the wheel housing may be rubbing the tire or the front spring is broke check it out but good this time,, good luck
No break fluid to the back brakes... why?
i have a 1999 chevy cavalier and i just put new brake lines on all around. when i got the car, the back brake lines where rotted right through. i have changed everything after the master cylinder,(drums, callipers, wheel cylinders, pads..) now i cant bleed the back brakes, but i can bleed the front. i have no pressure coming into the back brake lines what so ever. PLZ HELP!!!|||Your proportionong valve is keeping fluid from going to the back.
When a brake line breaks, the prop valve moves (internally) to keep all the fluid from leaking out (from the master cylinder) The valve needs to be re-set to let fluid go to all the wheels|||Did you crimp one of the lines or do you have a leak? I know how you flare the lines together is pretty important also. you need a special tool . good luck.|||Double you de forty
UU-D-40
it works you my mom got it and trust me it works
When a brake line breaks, the prop valve moves (internally) to keep all the fluid from leaking out (from the master cylinder) The valve needs to be re-set to let fluid go to all the wheels|||Did you crimp one of the lines or do you have a leak? I know how you flare the lines together is pretty important also. you need a special tool . good luck.|||Double you de forty
UU-D-40
it works you my mom got it and trust me it works
Why are my breaks locked on my 1992 ford escort?
I just changed my breaks on my %26#039;92 ford escort. When the car is on there is no break pressure, however when the car is off the pressure comes right back. This is after the breaks have been bled at least 10 times on each side and new break fluid has been put in.
When the car is turned on and there is no pressure and I go to drive it the front breaks are locked solid. |||Sounds like you%26#039;r brake servo has gone,that%26#039;s the round thing the brake master cyl bolts onto.Test like this,start engine rev then turn off,depress the brake pedal several times until it goes hard,then,WHITHOUT removing pressure with your foot on the brake,start it up,the pedal should dip down towards the floor.anything apart from this result means the servo is shot.|||You will need to replace the brake booster. It works off engine vacumn thats why there is a difference when the car is running.
When the car is turned on and there is no pressure and I go to drive it the front breaks are locked solid. |||Sounds like you%26#039;r brake servo has gone,that%26#039;s the round thing the brake master cyl bolts onto.Test like this,start engine rev then turn off,depress the brake pedal several times until it goes hard,then,WHITHOUT removing pressure with your foot on the brake,start it up,the pedal should dip down towards the floor.anything apart from this result means the servo is shot.|||You will need to replace the brake booster. It works off engine vacumn thats why there is a difference when the car is running.
Changing Transmission Fluid...is it too long & should I replace the filter?
I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with 89k miles on it, and when I was giving it a once over the other day I noticed the trans fluid was a light brown color to it. It didn%26#039;t smell burnt or anything just the color. I wiped the dipstick down with a white paper towel and took a picture of it, here%26#039;s the link:
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/1579/鈥?/a>
Now I know the fluid needs to be changed, and I%26#039;m pretty sure I%26#039;m not past the point of no return (with the old fluid being so bad it%26#039;s better to just leave it alone %26lt;-- I don%26#039;t think I%26#039;m at that point yet )
The car only has 89k miles on it, I got it used so I really don%26#039;t know the service history, I was told when I bought it that the trans fluid was changed just before 70k miles, but I%26#039;m not really sure on that.
My question is...Should I drop the pan and put a new gasket on and change the filter? or should I just keep the filter it has and go somewhere and get the fluid changed with a fluid exchanger that doesn%26#039;t involve dropping the pan?
It doesn%26#039;t have any leaks right now so it really doesn%26#039;t need to have the pan dropped for any other purpose than to change the filter, but this one almost falls under the %26quot;if it ain%26#039;t broke, dont%26#039; fix it%26quot; category...meaning I don%26#039;t want to drop the pan and replace the gasket and everything only to find that now it leaks because i didn%26#039;t clean the mating surfaces right, or the pan was overtightened in the past causing it to be distorted or something.
What do you guys think....should the filter be changed or not?
Thanks,
Jim|||if the fluid looks brown on the stick, if you drained a quart it would be dark brown or black depending on the light. Its good it does not smell burnt, It is best anytime you drop the pan to change the filter, always pay attention as you pull the filter down, if the filter has a removeable screw, put it in the hole after you get the filter out of the way, this makes it easy when reinstalling new filter. you need to spend some time and get the brown fluid out of the torque converter too, one way is to install a drain plug kit (you can buy one for 10 bucks, and then over the next week or so, dump the four or five quarts in the pan, until you get some clear pink fluid inside. as much as possible, check with a trusted mechanic on the best way for your car. Do not add any tranny flush crap, just get as much clean fluid in as possible, this is the best thing for it, light brown is old tired fluid, so clean fresh fluid is best.|||People argue both ways; Just change the fluid and filter. My experience is that%26#039;s the best way to go.|||change fluid and filter about 80000 miles is average
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/1579/鈥?/a>
Now I know the fluid needs to be changed, and I%26#039;m pretty sure I%26#039;m not past the point of no return (with the old fluid being so bad it%26#039;s better to just leave it alone %26lt;-- I don%26#039;t think I%26#039;m at that point yet )
The car only has 89k miles on it, I got it used so I really don%26#039;t know the service history, I was told when I bought it that the trans fluid was changed just before 70k miles, but I%26#039;m not really sure on that.
My question is...Should I drop the pan and put a new gasket on and change the filter? or should I just keep the filter it has and go somewhere and get the fluid changed with a fluid exchanger that doesn%26#039;t involve dropping the pan?
It doesn%26#039;t have any leaks right now so it really doesn%26#039;t need to have the pan dropped for any other purpose than to change the filter, but this one almost falls under the %26quot;if it ain%26#039;t broke, dont%26#039; fix it%26quot; category...meaning I don%26#039;t want to drop the pan and replace the gasket and everything only to find that now it leaks because i didn%26#039;t clean the mating surfaces right, or the pan was overtightened in the past causing it to be distorted or something.
What do you guys think....should the filter be changed or not?
Thanks,
Jim|||if the fluid looks brown on the stick, if you drained a quart it would be dark brown or black depending on the light. Its good it does not smell burnt, It is best anytime you drop the pan to change the filter, always pay attention as you pull the filter down, if the filter has a removeable screw, put it in the hole after you get the filter out of the way, this makes it easy when reinstalling new filter. you need to spend some time and get the brown fluid out of the torque converter too, one way is to install a drain plug kit (you can buy one for 10 bucks, and then over the next week or so, dump the four or five quarts in the pan, until you get some clear pink fluid inside. as much as possible, check with a trusted mechanic on the best way for your car. Do not add any tranny flush crap, just get as much clean fluid in as possible, this is the best thing for it, light brown is old tired fluid, so clean fresh fluid is best.|||People argue both ways; Just change the fluid and filter. My experience is that%26#039;s the best way to go.|||change fluid and filter about 80000 miles is average
Is it true that changing automatic transmission fluid in a high mileage vehicle can ruin the transmission?
This is something that I have often heard: %26quot;On higher mileage vehicles the transmission fluid is saturated with friction material from the clutches. Replacing this fluid with new fluid which contains new detergents can start the so called break-in process all over causing more clutch wear. So if you have an older car that is not leaking or consuming transmission fluid just leave it alone.%26quot; If this is the case then what is the best way to deal with this? Do you change half the fluid (leaving half new half old) along with the filter and gasket?|||Just change the fluid as described in the owner%26#039;s manual. The phrase is changing the fluid on OLDER vehicles. Older transmissions used mineral oil or Dextron (1). When used for long periods of time, they left a varnish coating in the oil passages. New fluid would break the varnish off where it would lodge in the shift valves causing problems. It did not help that when GM released the TH400, they said the fluid was good for 100,000 miles. Causing people to wait 10 years before changing the fluid. Most cars on the road use Dextron-II or better. This does not have the varnish problems unless you have repeat transmission overheating (towing). Some cars (Honda?) don%26#039;t even have tranny filters any more.
(a couple of side notes:) The fluid has multiple jobs, lubricating, cooling, hydraulic controls, cushion the shift changes, transfer power in the torque converter, and transferring power in the clutch packs. All trannys wear metal. It is found as the silver sludge in the pan that the repair shop shows you when telling you that you need a rebuild. Sludge (not broken parts) is normal The metal actually washes down into the pan, the filter stops it from being sucked back into the system. The metal is from the steel pressure plates of the clutches and drum metal, not the %26quot;friction material%26quot;. The friction material is PAPER !, which holds the fluid between the plates.|||Daily maint. is the key to a long life of the transmission.I did both. I didn%26#039;t change it because I waited to long and I also changed it. My Chevy truck had the turbo 300. They say that if you change it after sitting in the transmission that you flush out lose shavings of the transmission. Some trans have a magnet on the oil pan to catch such shavings. It is your call. But be sure they change the filter and gasket and also drain out the toque converter.|||Excellent question, but I wish I had the answer, I heard the same story from a mechanic. I had a car with 80K and changed the fluid and 2 months later the tranny went bad. Is that the fluid change or just an old car?.|||I never heard of that, U need 2 change the fuild at the first 100,000 miles.
Then change it out only if its is starting 2 turn brown. If it leaking, change out the gasket and filter.|||if the transmission had never been serviced before this is true. if the transmission was serviced at regular intervals this is not true.|||I have been working for 7 years in the repair industry doing a half dozen flushes a day and I have yet to see any evidence to back up such a claim|||if it ain%26#039;t broke don%26#039;t fix it.|||I am sure you have heard the saying, if it isn%26#039;t broke, don%26#039;t fix it. And, the same holds true, for a automatic transmission... If the transmission is working fine, the way it is, you are best off, leaving it be. Just stick to the normal business, of checking the fluid level, now and again. You need not worry, unless you see or feel a marked change in the transmission. If this arises, then, check into the problem, but not untill. If all is going smoothly, leave it be, till something goes wrong.
(a couple of side notes:) The fluid has multiple jobs, lubricating, cooling, hydraulic controls, cushion the shift changes, transfer power in the torque converter, and transferring power in the clutch packs. All trannys wear metal. It is found as the silver sludge in the pan that the repair shop shows you when telling you that you need a rebuild. Sludge (not broken parts) is normal The metal actually washes down into the pan, the filter stops it from being sucked back into the system. The metal is from the steel pressure plates of the clutches and drum metal, not the %26quot;friction material%26quot;. The friction material is PAPER !, which holds the fluid between the plates.|||Daily maint. is the key to a long life of the transmission.I did both. I didn%26#039;t change it because I waited to long and I also changed it. My Chevy truck had the turbo 300. They say that if you change it after sitting in the transmission that you flush out lose shavings of the transmission. Some trans have a magnet on the oil pan to catch such shavings. It is your call. But be sure they change the filter and gasket and also drain out the toque converter.|||Excellent question, but I wish I had the answer, I heard the same story from a mechanic. I had a car with 80K and changed the fluid and 2 months later the tranny went bad. Is that the fluid change or just an old car?.|||I never heard of that, U need 2 change the fuild at the first 100,000 miles.
Then change it out only if its is starting 2 turn brown. If it leaking, change out the gasket and filter.|||if the transmission had never been serviced before this is true. if the transmission was serviced at regular intervals this is not true.|||I have been working for 7 years in the repair industry doing a half dozen flushes a day and I have yet to see any evidence to back up such a claim|||if it ain%26#039;t broke don%26#039;t fix it.|||I am sure you have heard the saying, if it isn%26#039;t broke, don%26#039;t fix it. And, the same holds true, for a automatic transmission... If the transmission is working fine, the way it is, you are best off, leaving it be. Just stick to the normal business, of checking the fluid level, now and again. You need not worry, unless you see or feel a marked change in the transmission. If this arises, then, check into the problem, but not untill. If all is going smoothly, leave it be, till something goes wrong.
I put a liitle bit of power steering fluid in my break system. How bad isthisfor the system? Should I flush it
Hi, I was changing my front callipers, brakes and rotors today. The guy at the AutoZone store gave me the wrong bottle and I put some power steering fuid in my brake system. I got some out already, but I am sure there is some left inside. Should I flush my brake system? Also, my brakes are a little softer than before? I%26#039;ll try bleeding them tomorrow morning again. Please, help. Thank you.|||Get the power steering fluid out. Flush it, bleed it all. It is not designed for it.|||I would bleed the system and put in the right fluid. Better safe than sorry! Sounds like you know what to do, so you will be fine.|||just bleed them and you will be good to go|||Hi, I wish I could help but i%26#039;m really not sure. Try calling the auto part store hopefully they know thier products. Good luck and have a happy Thanksgiving!|||power steering fluid has more solvents and chemicals in it than brake fluid but there both hydrolic fluids. If only a %26quot;little%26quot; in there it will be ok. Soft brake pedal has nothing to do with that.
It may take up to 5 bleeds to get all air out.
Make shure all air comes out though|||%26quot;Yugie 29%26quot; is right...
You need to have it flushed out.
ALL the rubber seals are going to soften up and swell.
Consider replacing ALL wheel cyliders, master cylinder, and ABS controler if you don%26#039;t want to completely flush it.
BRAKE FLUID IS BRAKE FLUID not power steering fluid.|||You must get ALL of that fluid out of the brake system. Power steering fluid has a petroleum base. What will happen is every rubber item in that car will swell up. When this happens, the brakes will not work correctly and to fix the problem, you will need to replace everything that has rubber in it.
This includes:
Master cylinder
ABS Module
Brake hoses
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
Suck as much of the fluid out as you can. Put new fluid in the master cylinder. Suck that out. Refill the master cylinder and bleed all the lines. I would suggest going around the car a few times to make sure you get all the power steering out.
I would do this as soon as possible to avoid a huge problem.|||yea I think you have to flush it all and adjust your brakes again, and purge them also.|||you need to flush the system with alcohol,the p/s fluid will swell all the rubber seals in the brake system,if it ran thru to the calipers it may be too late already,the problems may not show right away but the master will start getting stiff to push and possibly not return,the flex lines will start to deteriorate from the inside and the seals in the calipers will start to swell and restrict movement .this is not something to take lightly.i have repaired several of these over the years ,good luck|||It is not very good! Get it out and replace with fresh brake fluid and dont forget to flush.
It may take up to 5 bleeds to get all air out.
Make shure all air comes out though|||%26quot;Yugie 29%26quot; is right...
You need to have it flushed out.
ALL the rubber seals are going to soften up and swell.
Consider replacing ALL wheel cyliders, master cylinder, and ABS controler if you don%26#039;t want to completely flush it.
BRAKE FLUID IS BRAKE FLUID not power steering fluid.|||You must get ALL of that fluid out of the brake system. Power steering fluid has a petroleum base. What will happen is every rubber item in that car will swell up. When this happens, the brakes will not work correctly and to fix the problem, you will need to replace everything that has rubber in it.
This includes:
Master cylinder
ABS Module
Brake hoses
Calipers
Wheel cylinders
Suck as much of the fluid out as you can. Put new fluid in the master cylinder. Suck that out. Refill the master cylinder and bleed all the lines. I would suggest going around the car a few times to make sure you get all the power steering out.
I would do this as soon as possible to avoid a huge problem.|||yea I think you have to flush it all and adjust your brakes again, and purge them also.|||you need to flush the system with alcohol,the p/s fluid will swell all the rubber seals in the brake system,if it ran thru to the calipers it may be too late already,the problems may not show right away but the master will start getting stiff to push and possibly not return,the flex lines will start to deteriorate from the inside and the seals in the calipers will start to swell and restrict movement .this is not something to take lightly.i have repaired several of these over the years ,good luck|||It is not very good! Get it out and replace with fresh brake fluid and dont forget to flush.
How often should you maintain your car?
1. oil, lube, filter: oil change - 3000 miles or 3 months. How often should I change lube? Filter?
2. At this time, I can also ask the mechanic to fill up my tires. Should I fill up my tires more often than 3 months?
3. power steering fluid - How long does it last or how often should I change?
4. coolant/anti-freeze - How long does it last or how often should I change?
5. break fluid - How long does it last or how often should I change?
6. Transmission fluid - How long does it last or how often should I change?
7. Differences in regular, mid-grade, and premium gasoline. Is premium necessarily the best? How often should I fill up premium gasoline?
8. windshield wiper blades - How long do they last or how often should I change?
9. freons - How long does it last? How can I maintain my car so the freons lasts the maximum?
10. How often should I wash my car? Wax?
11. How often should I clean the interior?
12. Am I leaving out anything else?
The reason I ask these questions is because I want to maintain my vehicle myself as much as possible. The only exception is oil, lube, and filter change and freons. Thank you. I would greatly appreciate your help.|||long list and easy to say you do it everyday every week and every month
first one 3000 miles oil and filter rotate tires check tire monthly or more wil save life of tire and get better fuel mileage
power steering fluid really dont have to ever been change just toped off
coolant/anti-freeze top off change like every three yrs
break fluid top off never change
Transmission fluid check like oil change oil and filter but like at 60,000 120,000 miles
has for fuel buy at place you stop at most offen fil with best they have set mileage drive til you need more try next octane level set mileage used the one that gets the best miles which will vary with each place knowing a few brands and type to use but most cars will run fine on them all but using the one that gets yourcar the best mileage is the one you want to use
windshield wiper blades once a yr
freons have it check once a yr
wash when dirty wax every other time or about four times or so a year when ever you feel like it has for
cleaning insides when ever
wheel alignment once a yr or if you see tires are wearing or it drives funny as for wheel rotation easy to remember to do it with oil change about every 3000 miles its not so much as when to but to do most people dont do it at all heres a couple sites that you can find how to%26#039;s and when
|||Read your cars manual. It will tell you how often to service and what to do when you service it.
You should check your tyres as often as you can and definately before long journeys. You should get a pump.
Differences in petrol(gas) are only the octane rating, use regular unless your car requires premium. (Read the manual)
Freon is a trade name, but I assume you mean air conditioning refrigerant, you don%26#039;t need to do anything with this unless your air conditioning stops working.
You clean your car when it gets dirty... I wax mine every time I wash it.. and I wash it a lot. It is personal preferance.
Wheel alignment I%26#039;d have done every year, unless you notice a problem. Make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment if you drive a rear wheel drive car.|||Every car make is a little different, look in your service manual it%26#039;ll have all that info.
2. At this time, I can also ask the mechanic to fill up my tires. Should I fill up my tires more often than 3 months?
3. power steering fluid - How long does it last or how often should I change?
4. coolant/anti-freeze - How long does it last or how often should I change?
5. break fluid - How long does it last or how often should I change?
6. Transmission fluid - How long does it last or how often should I change?
7. Differences in regular, mid-grade, and premium gasoline. Is premium necessarily the best? How often should I fill up premium gasoline?
8. windshield wiper blades - How long do they last or how often should I change?
9. freons - How long does it last? How can I maintain my car so the freons lasts the maximum?
10. How often should I wash my car? Wax?
11. How often should I clean the interior?
12. Am I leaving out anything else?
The reason I ask these questions is because I want to maintain my vehicle myself as much as possible. The only exception is oil, lube, and filter change and freons. Thank you. I would greatly appreciate your help.|||long list and easy to say you do it everyday every week and every month
first one 3000 miles oil and filter rotate tires check tire monthly or more wil save life of tire and get better fuel mileage
power steering fluid really dont have to ever been change just toped off
coolant/anti-freeze top off change like every three yrs
break fluid top off never change
Transmission fluid check like oil change oil and filter but like at 60,000 120,000 miles
has for fuel buy at place you stop at most offen fil with best they have set mileage drive til you need more try next octane level set mileage used the one that gets the best miles which will vary with each place knowing a few brands and type to use but most cars will run fine on them all but using the one that gets yourcar the best mileage is the one you want to use
windshield wiper blades once a yr
freons have it check once a yr
wash when dirty wax every other time or about four times or so a year when ever you feel like it has for
cleaning insides when ever
wheel alignment once a yr or if you see tires are wearing or it drives funny as for wheel rotation easy to remember to do it with oil change about every 3000 miles its not so much as when to but to do most people dont do it at all heres a couple sites that you can find how to%26#039;s and when
|||Read your cars manual. It will tell you how often to service and what to do when you service it.
You should check your tyres as often as you can and definately before long journeys. You should get a pump.
Differences in petrol(gas) are only the octane rating, use regular unless your car requires premium. (Read the manual)
Freon is a trade name, but I assume you mean air conditioning refrigerant, you don%26#039;t need to do anything with this unless your air conditioning stops working.
You clean your car when it gets dirty... I wax mine every time I wash it.. and I wash it a lot. It is personal preferance.
Wheel alignment I%26#039;d have done every year, unless you notice a problem. Make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment if you drive a rear wheel drive car.|||Every car make is a little different, look in your service manual it%26#039;ll have all that info.
My car is leaking steering fluid after I had the break change?
I have a 1997 avalon with 80,000 mile on it. Last month I noticed that it was making a high pitch noise and stared vibrating when i drove over 60 mph. When I took it to the mechanic , he told me that the vibration has to to with the brakes and the disc/drum. and the noise was something in regard with the fluid had no where to go? So it cost me $1100.
Considering that since I have only put 50 miles on it and it has been sitting in the garage for the past 2 wks. I went to drive it yesterday and the steering wheel was impossible to turn and then I notived that there was a pile of fluid under the car and the steering fluid container was all empy. If any one has any idea please reply asap so I can be prepaied when I take it back. thanks|||More than likely your power steering unit is not working properly. if your leaking power steering fluid,check your lines going to the power steering box.check to see if any,or all the bolts are tite,if so..You;ll probably have to change the power steering box.|||Power steering is not related to the brake assembly but you need to have the vehicle looked at by someone that is more trustworthy than the people that ripped you off for your brakes.The possibilities are rack and pinion,Power steering pump, pressure and return lines. Any of these can be expensive according to who gives you an estimate. Once your given an estimate, call another shop and ask their price for the repair so you can compare. I%26#039;m not endorsing them, but try Pep Boys for a comparison, you might be surprised|||$1100 for brakes is insane. So right off the bat I would not trust that guy.
Not sure how you can prove that is their fault. They are not related issues. Go to a different Mech and consider it a learning experience.|||well to start, do not use the same guy again. he lied. It was your power steering. It might be something as simple as the hoses. but probably your pump went out. depending on the vehicle, it might be able to replace it your self.|||make sure ur steering fluid lines aren%26#039;t cracked or damaged
Considering that since I have only put 50 miles on it and it has been sitting in the garage for the past 2 wks. I went to drive it yesterday and the steering wheel was impossible to turn and then I notived that there was a pile of fluid under the car and the steering fluid container was all empy. If any one has any idea please reply asap so I can be prepaied when I take it back. thanks|||More than likely your power steering unit is not working properly. if your leaking power steering fluid,check your lines going to the power steering box.check to see if any,or all the bolts are tite,if so..You;ll probably have to change the power steering box.|||Power steering is not related to the brake assembly but you need to have the vehicle looked at by someone that is more trustworthy than the people that ripped you off for your brakes.The possibilities are rack and pinion,Power steering pump, pressure and return lines. Any of these can be expensive according to who gives you an estimate. Once your given an estimate, call another shop and ask their price for the repair so you can compare. I%26#039;m not endorsing them, but try Pep Boys for a comparison, you might be surprised|||$1100 for brakes is insane. So right off the bat I would not trust that guy.
Not sure how you can prove that is their fault. They are not related issues. Go to a different Mech and consider it a learning experience.|||well to start, do not use the same guy again. he lied. It was your power steering. It might be something as simple as the hoses. but probably your pump went out. depending on the vehicle, it might be able to replace it your self.|||make sure ur steering fluid lines aren%26#039;t cracked or damaged
Ok, what would make my break fluid dissapear?
I took a long 350 mile trip to grandparents house for Thanksgiving, before I left their house I made sure all the fluids were filled and stuff, including the break fluid. The next week I took my car (%26#039;97 Dodge Intrepid) to walmart to get the basic oil change. I told them to check all the fluids, and they told me everything was alright. Two days later when I%26#039;m about to go to college I notice that my breaks aren%26#039;t working correctly. I have to push really hard for anything to start to stop, and even then, I knew if I were going to go 70 mph and needed to stop suddenly, I could get in a wreck. Later that day my mom, boyfriend, and I am looking at the break fluid and it%26#039;s all gone! I moved the car, and looked under it and there is no wet spots on the ground.
They think that, somehow when I was pushing the breaks it all leaked out... HOW DO I FIX THIS?! (Besides the obvious fact to get a new car)|||Maybe the break fluid slowly leaked out. A (fairly cheap) thing to do would be to buy a new break fluid container that goes in your car. That might fix the problem. But if your not sure, then maybe you should have a shop to look at it.|||Take it to a repair shop and tell them what you have stated here. I%26#039;m sure they will be able to find the problem and repair it, too.
I must say this: Not everybody can be a %26quot;do it your-self fixer%26quot;! You really should let a real mechanic look at it and fix it. You might have your boy-friend find a leaking hose and fix it with duct tape, but with that kind of %26quot;fix%26quot;, you%26#039;ll be in deep do-doo, if suddenly you have no brakes in an emergency stop! And, going away to college really isn%26#039;t what you want to do, with faulty brakes! The first panic stop on unfamiliar roads will surely make the brakes fail, leaving you with more trouble than you would want at that time in your life!|||You could have a brake line broken or a leaking cylinder. Probably not going to be an expensive fix now, but get it done soon or you%26#039;ll have more damage, besides not being able to stop.|||I stole your brake fluid.
Want it back? Email me.
Just kidding, youve probably got a leak somewhere. Get it checked out promptly. There are dozens of places it could be leaking from. The most obvious is this, make certain that the cap where they pour the brake fluid in is on tight. If its loose it could be coming out of there. Then again it could be a leaking brake line, a leaking brake caliper, a leaking master cylinder-the list goes on.
Seriously though-there is no need to get a new car over this. Take it to a shop you can trust, or even better if you have a friend who is a mechanic and does work at their house take it to them. Its probably something basic-a small leak somewhere.|||If you look at the inboard side of each tire, I would bet you%26#039;ll find brake fluid on at least one of the tires.|||Brake fluid doesn%26#039;t %26quot;disappear%26quot; - it leaks out of the system. Usually, this is a broken, rusted or corroded brake line.
Do not drive this vehicle until repairs are made.|||well you don%26#039;t sound like you know anything about cars, take it to a shop
They think that, somehow when I was pushing the breaks it all leaked out... HOW DO I FIX THIS?! (Besides the obvious fact to get a new car)|||Maybe the break fluid slowly leaked out. A (fairly cheap) thing to do would be to buy a new break fluid container that goes in your car. That might fix the problem. But if your not sure, then maybe you should have a shop to look at it.|||Take it to a repair shop and tell them what you have stated here. I%26#039;m sure they will be able to find the problem and repair it, too.
I must say this: Not everybody can be a %26quot;do it your-self fixer%26quot;! You really should let a real mechanic look at it and fix it. You might have your boy-friend find a leaking hose and fix it with duct tape, but with that kind of %26quot;fix%26quot;, you%26#039;ll be in deep do-doo, if suddenly you have no brakes in an emergency stop! And, going away to college really isn%26#039;t what you want to do, with faulty brakes! The first panic stop on unfamiliar roads will surely make the brakes fail, leaving you with more trouble than you would want at that time in your life!|||You could have a brake line broken or a leaking cylinder. Probably not going to be an expensive fix now, but get it done soon or you%26#039;ll have more damage, besides not being able to stop.|||I stole your brake fluid.
Want it back? Email me.
Just kidding, youve probably got a leak somewhere. Get it checked out promptly. There are dozens of places it could be leaking from. The most obvious is this, make certain that the cap where they pour the brake fluid in is on tight. If its loose it could be coming out of there. Then again it could be a leaking brake line, a leaking brake caliper, a leaking master cylinder-the list goes on.
Seriously though-there is no need to get a new car over this. Take it to a shop you can trust, or even better if you have a friend who is a mechanic and does work at their house take it to them. Its probably something basic-a small leak somewhere.|||If you look at the inboard side of each tire, I would bet you%26#039;ll find brake fluid on at least one of the tires.|||Brake fluid doesn%26#039;t %26quot;disappear%26quot; - it leaks out of the system. Usually, this is a broken, rusted or corroded brake line.
Do not drive this vehicle until repairs are made.|||well you don%26#039;t sound like you know anything about cars, take it to a shop
Is Dodge Chrysler taking me for a ride?
I dropped my Dodge Caliber at my dealer this morning for the regular maintenance. My car is 2 - 1/2 y/o. (25,000 miles on the car). I have no problem what so ever with this car.
Before looking at my car the guy tells me I will need these extra:
Break fluid changed $64.95
Steering fluid changed: $89.95
Breaks verified: $42.95
Alignment: $64.95
Is this really all necessary?|||Brake fluid change is not a bad idea because brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture. After a couple cold winters there MAY be some condensation.
Power steering is not something which is indicated at 25,000 miles.
$ 42.95 is an exorbitant amount to check brakes.
Alignment? It may be worth it if you suspected that it was out.
Did you hit a hole or a curb?
Did it pull or vibrate?
Did they ask these questions?
From first blush, it sounds like they are giving you a hose job.
I would compare these suggestions to the factory schedule of maintenance.
You are looking at a $ 300+ bill which should be in the range of $200 for the work performed. Of course that figure is in Ohio dollars and not yours.
To me this looks like scare tactics to get you to do a lot of quick high dollar unnecessary inspections.
The brakes verified should have been done during the alignment if all they did was look.
This invoice really improved the margin for that day.
It was nice for you to offset the cost of some really tough jobs where it is tough to make rate.
As it is they charged you about 4 hours for about 2 hours work.|||You can do all this yourself for probably 3 times less of what they are asking, shop around, ask someone else for advice|||Brake fluid changed=good idea; Steering fluid changed=bad idea-wait until 7 years or 50k miles; brakes checked = ok, but they shouldn%26#039;t charge you anything if it%26#039;s getting other services done, especially the fluid change;Alignment is not a maintenance item unless you are complaining of the car pulling to one side or the other or the tires are wearing badly. You should get a tire rotation though. Not a total ripoff, but no bargain. Skip the alignment and Power Steering juice.|||Brake fluid flush = every 30k miles (nothing wrong with doing it a little early, if only for peace of mind... keep the receipt!!!)
Power steering fluid flush = usually only if dirty or discolored, probably not necessary
Brakes verified = take it elsewhere, should be free, done as a courtesy
Alignment = price is OK for 4-wheel alignment... can%26#039;t say from over the computer whether it%26#039;s %26quot;needed%26quot; or not.
Good luck!
Oh yeah, good tip on the tire rotation!!! Pay no more than about $20 for this.|||If your car run good it can wait!
Before looking at my car the guy tells me I will need these extra:
Break fluid changed $64.95
Steering fluid changed: $89.95
Breaks verified: $42.95
Alignment: $64.95
Is this really all necessary?|||Brake fluid change is not a bad idea because brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture. After a couple cold winters there MAY be some condensation.
Power steering is not something which is indicated at 25,000 miles.
$ 42.95 is an exorbitant amount to check brakes.
Alignment? It may be worth it if you suspected that it was out.
Did you hit a hole or a curb?
Did it pull or vibrate?
Did they ask these questions?
From first blush, it sounds like they are giving you a hose job.
I would compare these suggestions to the factory schedule of maintenance.
You are looking at a $ 300+ bill which should be in the range of $200 for the work performed. Of course that figure is in Ohio dollars and not yours.
To me this looks like scare tactics to get you to do a lot of quick high dollar unnecessary inspections.
The brakes verified should have been done during the alignment if all they did was look.
This invoice really improved the margin for that day.
It was nice for you to offset the cost of some really tough jobs where it is tough to make rate.
As it is they charged you about 4 hours for about 2 hours work.|||You can do all this yourself for probably 3 times less of what they are asking, shop around, ask someone else for advice|||Brake fluid changed=good idea; Steering fluid changed=bad idea-wait until 7 years or 50k miles; brakes checked = ok, but they shouldn%26#039;t charge you anything if it%26#039;s getting other services done, especially the fluid change;Alignment is not a maintenance item unless you are complaining of the car pulling to one side or the other or the tires are wearing badly. You should get a tire rotation though. Not a total ripoff, but no bargain. Skip the alignment and Power Steering juice.|||Brake fluid flush = every 30k miles (nothing wrong with doing it a little early, if only for peace of mind... keep the receipt!!!)
Power steering fluid flush = usually only if dirty or discolored, probably not necessary
Brakes verified = take it elsewhere, should be free, done as a courtesy
Alignment = price is OK for 4-wheel alignment... can%26#039;t say from over the computer whether it%26#039;s %26quot;needed%26quot; or not.
Good luck!
Oh yeah, good tip on the tire rotation!!! Pay no more than about $20 for this.|||If your car run good it can wait!
2005 ktm 125sx rear break is not working?
we will have the bike up on a stand and spin back tire and hit the break and it will stop instantly, but when you get on it and start riding the breaks just don%26#039;t work at all. we have changed the break fluid, the break pads are fine and we have bled them.
any help would be greatly appreciated for i am going riding friday|||I would just change that brake pads and if that doesn%26#039;t work then I suggest taking it to a local shop that fixes dirt bikes. Good Luck!|||Sounds like it%26#039;s worn down, most likely. I would suggest changing the brakepads completely, because my guess is that they have gotten quite worn down and therefore slips when there is a lot more weight on the wheel. It could also be that the brakes are damaged, or that something has gotten caught in the internal system. Try cleaning the whole brake system, change the tube and remember to air it when done. As I said, change brakepads.
any help would be greatly appreciated for i am going riding friday|||I would just change that brake pads and if that doesn%26#039;t work then I suggest taking it to a local shop that fixes dirt bikes. Good Luck!|||Sounds like it%26#039;s worn down, most likely. I would suggest changing the brakepads completely, because my guess is that they have gotten quite worn down and therefore slips when there is a lot more weight on the wheel. It could also be that the brakes are damaged, or that something has gotten caught in the internal system. Try cleaning the whole brake system, change the tube and remember to air it when done. As I said, change brakepads.
Did my water break during sex? Change in fluid...?
My partner said it was a different feeling?|||It is hard to say...it%26#039;s not always a %26quot;gush%26quot; as someone said..sometimes it can be just a little trickle...However, go to the bathroom and sit on the commode, then squeeze very tightly the muscles you would to stop a flow of urine. If the liquid stops, then it is NOT the bag of waters which has broken...if it does not stop, then there is a good chance it has a leak.
Another way is to smell the fluid: if it is urine, you%26#039;ll know it...the fluid in the bag of water shouldn%26#039;t smell at all.
How far along are you? Sex can sometimes bring on labor, especially near the end of pregnancy, so maybe this is a good thing?
See a doctor if you%26#039;re not sure either way...they can do a pH test on the fluid and see if it is the fluid around baby or if it is urine, etc.|||you would know, go to your doctor|||If your water broke, you would know it. Trust me...it is a GUSH of fluid that is unmistakable.|||if your water broke you are in labor and shouldnt be here you should be at the hospital.. if you honestly think yuor water broke call the doc asap and they will have you come in and get checked|||You should buy more sturdy and expensive water bed.|||Water breaks and fluid flows, everywhere. You would know.|||if it broke you would know for a few reasons one is that there would be a big gloush of fluid but besides that you might have to go ask your doctor.|||be very sure u little ***, this is the fuild.|||Ok so they said it felt differant and the first thing he thinks of is the fluid? What was he expecting to come out peanut butter? Come onn|||Sometimes you might get a small gush of water and the membrane has not ruptured completely but only partially. If this is the case you need to go immediately because this can set yourself as well as your unborn baby up for a serious infection. Even if you did get that big gush and no labor pains you need to go in. . . .same reason.|||hi... my pregnancy motto was;
%26quot;If in doubt, get checked out%26quot;
I don%26#039;t know how many times I went to the hospital during both my pregnancies for little twinges of pain etc, but at least I felt better knowing what was happening.
Another way is to smell the fluid: if it is urine, you%26#039;ll know it...the fluid in the bag of water shouldn%26#039;t smell at all.
How far along are you? Sex can sometimes bring on labor, especially near the end of pregnancy, so maybe this is a good thing?
See a doctor if you%26#039;re not sure either way...they can do a pH test on the fluid and see if it is the fluid around baby or if it is urine, etc.|||you would know, go to your doctor|||If your water broke, you would know it. Trust me...it is a GUSH of fluid that is unmistakable.|||if your water broke you are in labor and shouldnt be here you should be at the hospital.. if you honestly think yuor water broke call the doc asap and they will have you come in and get checked|||You should buy more sturdy and expensive water bed.|||Water breaks and fluid flows, everywhere. You would know.|||if it broke you would know for a few reasons one is that there would be a big gloush of fluid but besides that you might have to go ask your doctor.|||be very sure u little ***, this is the fuild.|||Ok so they said it felt differant and the first thing he thinks of is the fluid? What was he expecting to come out peanut butter? Come onn|||Sometimes you might get a small gush of water and the membrane has not ruptured completely but only partially. If this is the case you need to go immediately because this can set yourself as well as your unborn baby up for a serious infection. Even if you did get that big gush and no labor pains you need to go in. . . .same reason.|||hi... my pregnancy motto was;
%26quot;If in doubt, get checked out%26quot;
I don%26#039;t know how many times I went to the hospital during both my pregnancies for little twinges of pain etc, but at least I felt better knowing what was happening.
Mazda 3 Transmission fluid change?
2005 Automatic 35k. The owners manual does%26#039;nt mention anything about changing it?Owner%26#039;s manual says to flush radiator and break fluid nothing about transmission fluid? What should I do?|||i work for a mazda dealer in the parts dept.
we have a machine that does a complete flush and refill of the
transmission without having to take the trans apart.
do that every 15000 miles.
i have people just do it every 30000 miles , doesnt
hurt anything.
just make sure the correct fluid is used.
we have a machine that does a complete flush and refill of the
transmission without having to take the trans apart.
do that every 15000 miles.
i have people just do it every 30000 miles , doesnt
hurt anything.
just make sure the correct fluid is used.
Brake fluid gasket always ripping up, Why?
I have changed the break fluid Gasket, where you put in the fluid, 3 times in the last six months. Why is it ripping up?|||your either adding the wrong brake fluid or someone else did.contaminated brake fluid will turn rubber seals soft and mushy.if this is the case take to a mechanic asap.other brake componets may be affected.its a saftey issue|||it is the type of break fluid you useing|||What are you doing, prying off the cap???
How do you change the brake fluid on a 1989 Chrysler New Yorker?
so my car breaks are pretty much in need of some new break fluid. my car keeps yelling at me every day i don%26#039;t change it, and honestly I%26#039;m a little scared to drive it before i get this problem fixed. i would look in the manual but i don%26#039;t have one, so can you just tell me where the brake fluid goes, cus that would be just fantastic :)|||If your brakes are squealing, then you need to get the brakes themselves checked out. Same if it has a brake light on or is giving a check brakes message.
Some vehicles do have a low brake fluid warning, but when brake fluid is low, it%26#039;s normally due to either worn out pads, or a leak in the system, which means you need to have the brakes checked out.
While there%26#039;s no easy way to simply change brake fluid, a brake fluid flush is a good idea if the fluid has absorbed too much water. Brake fluid absorbs water and other contaminants over time, and can become less effective, or even cause corrosion inside the brake system.
I don%26#039;t believe in too many of the flush services sold on cars these days, but coolant flushes and brake fluid flushes are both a good idea to do when they%26#039;re needed. A shop trying to sell you the brake fluid (or coolant) flush should have test strips (or other tester) to show you against a chart that shows when the fluid is too dirty or not effective enough and needs flushing.
The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood, near the driver%26#039;s side of the firewall, but it%26#039;s a good idea to let someone who knows what they%26#039;re doing to check it and top it off if necessary, they should do this when checking the brakes.|||Well, cars aren%26#039;t designed to turn a light on, or tell you that you need to change the fluid. The light may be on for LOW fluid, but never %26quot;change brake fluid%26quot;
Google your car%26#039;s make and modle, say, %26quot;Ford Taurus brake fluid reservoir%26quot; make sure to use %26quot;Brake fluid reservoir%26quot; after the make and modle. Also there is a cap on it, or a silver/grey lid with a metal strap arm over it... that%26#039;s it.
Or take it to autozone... or some place like that, they can do it for you probably for nothing. You%26#039;d have to buy the fluid though|||I have driven since 1973. owned thirty cars. Not once have I ever heard of changing brake fluid. I have done a dozen brake jobs on my cars over the years. never changed brake fluid. I think your misinformed big time.|||Leah, your car doesn%26#039;t squeal because you need to change brake fluid. In fact the brake fluid was meant to last forever as long as it isn%26#039;t contaminated with oil or other foreign substances. As long as you use DOT-3 brake fluid you should never have to change it. The squeal is caused by one of two things. Either the front or back brake pads are worn out or they are contaminated with dust. Three or four good hard stops from 50 miles an hour out on the highway will heat and burn the dust off and stop the squeal. If it doesn%26#039;t, then you probably need new pads.
Some vehicles do have a low brake fluid warning, but when brake fluid is low, it%26#039;s normally due to either worn out pads, or a leak in the system, which means you need to have the brakes checked out.
While there%26#039;s no easy way to simply change brake fluid, a brake fluid flush is a good idea if the fluid has absorbed too much water. Brake fluid absorbs water and other contaminants over time, and can become less effective, or even cause corrosion inside the brake system.
I don%26#039;t believe in too many of the flush services sold on cars these days, but coolant flushes and brake fluid flushes are both a good idea to do when they%26#039;re needed. A shop trying to sell you the brake fluid (or coolant) flush should have test strips (or other tester) to show you against a chart that shows when the fluid is too dirty or not effective enough and needs flushing.
The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood, near the driver%26#039;s side of the firewall, but it%26#039;s a good idea to let someone who knows what they%26#039;re doing to check it and top it off if necessary, they should do this when checking the brakes.|||Well, cars aren%26#039;t designed to turn a light on, or tell you that you need to change the fluid. The light may be on for LOW fluid, but never %26quot;change brake fluid%26quot;
Google your car%26#039;s make and modle, say, %26quot;Ford Taurus brake fluid reservoir%26quot; make sure to use %26quot;Brake fluid reservoir%26quot; after the make and modle. Also there is a cap on it, or a silver/grey lid with a metal strap arm over it... that%26#039;s it.
Or take it to autozone... or some place like that, they can do it for you probably for nothing. You%26#039;d have to buy the fluid though|||I have driven since 1973. owned thirty cars. Not once have I ever heard of changing brake fluid. I have done a dozen brake jobs on my cars over the years. never changed brake fluid. I think your misinformed big time.|||Leah, your car doesn%26#039;t squeal because you need to change brake fluid. In fact the brake fluid was meant to last forever as long as it isn%26#039;t contaminated with oil or other foreign substances. As long as you use DOT-3 brake fluid you should never have to change it. The squeal is caused by one of two things. Either the front or back brake pads are worn out or they are contaminated with dust. Three or four good hard stops from 50 miles an hour out on the highway will heat and burn the dust off and stop the squeal. If it doesn%26#039;t, then you probably need new pads.
How do I change my front break pad on a 2005 volvo s60?
I am having problems finding how to change my front break pad with out tearing my break fluid line. I need help.|||It depends on if it%26#039;s a fixed caliper or a floating caliper. Ask on a Volvo forum. They%26#039;ll have instructions with pictures.|||Well donna it%26#039;s time to get a boyfriend and see if he can do the job. But if you don%26#039;t want to go that way you can go down to the local auto parts store and get a repair man on your car and it will show you how to do alot of things on your car.ul
How much should coolant, break fluid, power steering and transmiss flushes cost on a 57,000 mile 2002 hyundai?
Never had any of this done b4 only breaks, tires and regular oil changes. Reccomended flushes by dealer,Valvoline Oil Xpress and maintanence guide.|||about $22,000. Buy an American Car!!!!!!!!!!|||no more than $200
How do you change the brake fluid in your car?
my brake fluid is looking a little dirty, does the break fluid need to be changed out ever so often or is it something I dont need to change, just keep it filled?|||Get a repair manual for your car. That%26#039;s the only real way to do it.|||Steal your mother%26#039;s turkey baster out of the kitchen and suck some fluid out of the master cylinder. Then top off with new fluid. The next time you have a major brake problem, have them bleed the brakes.|||When you put new brakes on you should %26quot;bleed%26quot; the brakes. this refers to adding fluid while pressing the brakes to flush out the old fluid. Bleed your brakes until you get the black gunk out.|||well mate this isn%26#039;t easy even us mechanics hate it the fluid is crappy n not nice stuff but if you insist get a Friend to help top reservoir up then start at the brake farest away from the master cylinder.. then using the correct spanner n some wd40.(be careful these snap easy and also round off!!) get the Friend to pump the pedal 3-4times the say..down (he will then hold his foot flat to the floor the u release the nipple.wait for all the pressure to go then tighten it back up..then tell Friend off..to release pedal...repeat until satisfied on all 4 corners of the car.. hope you got all that...
but its much easier to get the garage to do it..|||this is not something you do yourself. take your car to a reputable brake shop and have them %26quot;pressure bleed your system%26quot; . this will eliminate dirty fluid plus all air that may be in the system, which if you have dirty fluid, their probably is air present. good luck
but its much easier to get the garage to do it..|||this is not something you do yourself. take your car to a reputable brake shop and have them %26quot;pressure bleed your system%26quot; . this will eliminate dirty fluid plus all air that may be in the system, which if you have dirty fluid, their probably is air present. good luck
When I go to change my Toyota Picnic (Ipsum) break fluid, in the progress the engine keep running or stop?
if you don%26#039;t even know that much... you should not be changing your own brake fluid.
Take it to a shop.
Take it to a shop.
Can someone tell me where the clutch fluid resevoir is on a Rover 75?
Mum%26#039;s clutch has burnt out and she hasn%26#039;t replaced or changed either the break fluid or clutch fluid in a good few years! The oil is in desperate need for a change and it is driven for at least 2 hours each day of the working week!!
Can someone tell me where the clutch fluid resevoir is just in case we can salvage a problem...I thought it was near the actual clutch peddle, but not positive.|||Most cars these days have a combined clutch- and brake-fluid reservoir. If the clutch has %26#039;burned-out%26#039; then get it replaced Pissing about with the clutch fluid won%26#039;t make a blind bit of difference. Rover 75s are worth about 2p, so scrap the damned thing.
In reply to fivetoze numpty suggestion that clutch-and brake-fluid rarely need replacing, it is well-known that brake- and clutch-fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air ( unless it is silicone which is not OE installation) and should be replaced annually. This is particularly important in relation to the brakes to avoid %26#039;vapour-lock%26#039; and consequent brake-failure.|||Not sure what a rover 75 looks like but a simple way to find your answer is to get someone to press the clutch pedal while you look under the bonnet,once you find the moving clutch arm if its hydraulic then follow the pipe up to the reservoir|||sorry, but if you have to ask, forget it. its not just a case of emptying the resovoir and refilling it...
clutch and brake fluid rarely need replacing... the clutch burning out is more likely to wear, or her riding it as she pulls away.
go to a garage, it%26#039;ll be cheaper in the long-run. (and safer)|||It%26#039;s inside the car just above the clutch pedal. It is a sealed system and isn%26#039;t designed to be serviced, so don%26#039;t worry about that (you won%26#039;t have enough room to top it up anyway). The clutch hydraulics come in two parts: Master cylinder with pipe, and slave cylinder with pipe. The master cylinder is a complete b******d to change, and the slave cylinder requires the gearbox out.
Change the brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage. It%26#039;s hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and unlike the clutch system on the 75, the brake system isn%26#039;t actually sealed.|||the clutch hydraulic system is sealed and cannot be topped up! if there is a problem it needs to be replaced complete at yr local garage!!|||its up above the clutch pedal, real pig to see and you cant see the level cos its black and too far up to look into. They are not supposed to be topped up, when u buy a new master cylinder it comes pre-filled with the pipe attatched which has a special connector on the pipe to join to the slave cylinder pipe without losing fluid or letting air in. The brake fluidon these is totally seperate from the clutch.
Can someone tell me where the clutch fluid resevoir is just in case we can salvage a problem...I thought it was near the actual clutch peddle, but not positive.|||Most cars these days have a combined clutch- and brake-fluid reservoir. If the clutch has %26#039;burned-out%26#039; then get it replaced Pissing about with the clutch fluid won%26#039;t make a blind bit of difference. Rover 75s are worth about 2p, so scrap the damned thing.
In reply to fivetoze numpty suggestion that clutch-and brake-fluid rarely need replacing, it is well-known that brake- and clutch-fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air ( unless it is silicone which is not OE installation) and should be replaced annually. This is particularly important in relation to the brakes to avoid %26#039;vapour-lock%26#039; and consequent brake-failure.|||Not sure what a rover 75 looks like but a simple way to find your answer is to get someone to press the clutch pedal while you look under the bonnet,once you find the moving clutch arm if its hydraulic then follow the pipe up to the reservoir|||sorry, but if you have to ask, forget it. its not just a case of emptying the resovoir and refilling it...
clutch and brake fluid rarely need replacing... the clutch burning out is more likely to wear, or her riding it as she pulls away.
go to a garage, it%26#039;ll be cheaper in the long-run. (and safer)|||It%26#039;s inside the car just above the clutch pedal. It is a sealed system and isn%26#039;t designed to be serviced, so don%26#039;t worry about that (you won%26#039;t have enough room to top it up anyway). The clutch hydraulics come in two parts: Master cylinder with pipe, and slave cylinder with pipe. The master cylinder is a complete b******d to change, and the slave cylinder requires the gearbox out.
Change the brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage. It%26#039;s hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and unlike the clutch system on the 75, the brake system isn%26#039;t actually sealed.|||the clutch hydraulic system is sealed and cannot be topped up! if there is a problem it needs to be replaced complete at yr local garage!!|||its up above the clutch pedal, real pig to see and you cant see the level cos its black and too far up to look into. They are not supposed to be topped up, when u buy a new master cylinder it comes pre-filled with the pipe attatched which has a special connector on the pipe to join to the slave cylinder pipe without losing fluid or letting air in. The brake fluidon these is totally seperate from the clutch.
When to change ht leads, fuel filter and break fluid?
Hello i am seriving my car soon and its a 1997 reanult clio mk1 1.2
I am wondering how often / how many miles should these items be replaced
HT leads
Fuel filter
Break fluid
Thanks|||not sure what ht leads are, but as for fuel filter, once a year. and brake fluid about once every 100,000 miles. brake fluid absorbs moisture out of the air which makes it not work effeiciently. but i have found that changing it at this times works fine, unless the car sits up for about a half year then change it as soon as you get it back on the road.
I am wondering how often / how many miles should these items be replaced
HT leads
Fuel filter
Break fluid
Thanks|||not sure what ht leads are, but as for fuel filter, once a year. and brake fluid about once every 100,000 miles. brake fluid absorbs moisture out of the air which makes it not work effeiciently. but i have found that changing it at this times works fine, unless the car sits up for about a half year then change it as soon as you get it back on the road.
How do you change the brake fluid on an r1 2004 yamaha?
How do you change the break fluid on an r1 2004 yamaha ? or where can i find this info online ?|||There are two reservoirs on the R1. One on the right handle bar and one on the right side below the seat. The handlebar reservoir is for the front and the other is for the rear.
I would recommend two people to do this procedure. 1 to pump the brakes and 1 to open and close the brake bleeder.
There are two bleeders on the front wheel covered with a rubber caps. Here is how you do this on the front. Repeat the process for the rear.
1) remove rubber caps.
2) remove brake reservoir cap
2) get box wrench that fits bleed nut
You can get a bleed hose (usually a brake line) and attach it to the bleed nut with the open end in a jar of brake fluid to prevent air intake. But we will use a lot of rags instead.
3) depress the front brake LIGHTLY
4) Loosen bleed line for the first time
5) Close lightly.
Note
Use voice communication from the brake operator to prevent air intake into the system. don鈥檛 go too fast or you will get your timing off.
6) Front brake operator depresses brake lever and says 鈥榦pen鈥?br>
7) Mechanic B then opens brake bleeder. Brake fluid will shoot out.
8) close brake bleeder
9) front brake operator says 鈥榗lose鈥?makes sure bleeder is closed and releases brake lever.
More Notes
Repeat until fluid is clear. Repeat on other front brake bleeder. DO NOT ALLOW BRAKE RESERVOIR TO GET LOW. Continue filling as you bleed the brakes.
Any air intake will make brakes soft, spongy, or just not work.
Do not allow brake fluid onto tires.
Make sure your have a lot of rags.
If you get air in the system repeat until all air is out.
Use DOT 4 Brake Fluid
www.cyclemartusa.com|||I don%26#039;t want to be mean, but you should buy a service manual, if you plan on doing jobs yourself. R1%26#039;s go fast, and if you don%26#039;t know how to change the brake fluid, this may lead to incomplete/ inproper job which = very bad accident. I definitely believe in doing the job yourself, for cost savings, but buy a service manual, usually about 60-80$. They are very detailed and pretty easy to understand. Good luck. p.s.: these service manuals cover any type of repair you may need to do in the future.|||go to yamaha authorized mechanic|||Most motorcycles have the brake fluid chamber installed on the handlebars first things first find the chamber clamp off both front and back brake lines then disconnect from the lines from the calipers. take the cover plate off of the fluid box using some container place under one at a time on the brake lines un clamp and you sholud have the fluid leaving the chamber and running into the container re-clamp and then do the next line. Once the lines are bled take some of your new fluid and recharge the lines
remember you want a steady steam coming from the lines so as in no air pockets. Once the lines are bleed clamp them off reconnect them to your calipers and top off your chamber also use your brakes while the bike is in neutral and see if they are working properly before you ride again. Good Luck and have fun if still unsure have it done by a pro.
I would recommend two people to do this procedure. 1 to pump the brakes and 1 to open and close the brake bleeder.
There are two bleeders on the front wheel covered with a rubber caps. Here is how you do this on the front. Repeat the process for the rear.
1) remove rubber caps.
2) remove brake reservoir cap
2) get box wrench that fits bleed nut
You can get a bleed hose (usually a brake line) and attach it to the bleed nut with the open end in a jar of brake fluid to prevent air intake. But we will use a lot of rags instead.
3) depress the front brake LIGHTLY
4) Loosen bleed line for the first time
5) Close lightly.
Note
Use voice communication from the brake operator to prevent air intake into the system. don鈥檛 go too fast or you will get your timing off.
6) Front brake operator depresses brake lever and says 鈥榦pen鈥?br>
7) Mechanic B then opens brake bleeder. Brake fluid will shoot out.
8) close brake bleeder
9) front brake operator says 鈥榗lose鈥?makes sure bleeder is closed and releases brake lever.
More Notes
Repeat until fluid is clear. Repeat on other front brake bleeder. DO NOT ALLOW BRAKE RESERVOIR TO GET LOW. Continue filling as you bleed the brakes.
Any air intake will make brakes soft, spongy, or just not work.
Do not allow brake fluid onto tires.
Make sure your have a lot of rags.
If you get air in the system repeat until all air is out.
Use DOT 4 Brake Fluid
www.cyclemartusa.com|||I don%26#039;t want to be mean, but you should buy a service manual, if you plan on doing jobs yourself. R1%26#039;s go fast, and if you don%26#039;t know how to change the brake fluid, this may lead to incomplete/ inproper job which = very bad accident. I definitely believe in doing the job yourself, for cost savings, but buy a service manual, usually about 60-80$. They are very detailed and pretty easy to understand. Good luck. p.s.: these service manuals cover any type of repair you may need to do in the future.|||go to yamaha authorized mechanic|||Most motorcycles have the brake fluid chamber installed on the handlebars first things first find the chamber clamp off both front and back brake lines then disconnect from the lines from the calipers. take the cover plate off of the fluid box using some container place under one at a time on the brake lines un clamp and you sholud have the fluid leaving the chamber and running into the container re-clamp and then do the next line. Once the lines are bled take some of your new fluid and recharge the lines
remember you want a steady steam coming from the lines so as in no air pockets. Once the lines are bleed clamp them off reconnect them to your calipers and top off your chamber also use your brakes while the bike is in neutral and see if they are working properly before you ride again. Good Luck and have fun if still unsure have it done by a pro.
Does either the power steering or break fluid need to be changed?
If so how often and how to do it?|||Well, brake fluid doesn%26#039;t wear out, but it gets very hot by the brakes and the fluid does absorb water. Usually, if you bleed them well after a brake change, that is plenty.
I%26#039;ve never actually changed the fluid completely out, but I attended a BMW brake clinic and they had a machine to do it.
The guy did bring up something about power steering fluid. Most people don%26#039;t change it, but it is under a lot of pressure and gets quite warm as well. I change mine every 50k miles.
If you just get as much out as you can with a rubber bulb type turkey baster, then refill with the correct fluid, you%26#039;ll get enough new fluid in to do the job. |||Toyota may say it does in the service manual but rarely does anyone do this.|||not unless you have a problem and some leaks out-they are hydraulic systems so the fluid is fully contained and does not get used up. |||No. Unless you get moisture or dirt in it, just keep it at proper levels.
And break is spelled brake.|||YES, YOU SHOULD CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID EVERY 2 YEARS DUE TO FLUID CONTAMINATION AND THERMAL BREAKDOWN, THE BOILING POINT GETS LOWER AND YOUR BRAKES COULD OVERHEAT GOING DOWN A STEEP HILL OR HEAVY STOPPING, SUCK IT OUT THE RESERVOIR AND REFILL WITH NEW FLUID, THEN BLEED ALL 4 BRAKES MAKING SURE TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL. AS FAR AS THE POWER STEERING FLUID YES YOU SHOULD TO KEEP FROM ABNORMAL WEAR TO THE RACK AND PINION STEERING RACK DUE TO FLUID VISCOSITY BREAKDOWN. THIS IS FROM A MECHANIC VIEWPOINT. HOPE THAT HELPS.
I%26#039;ve never actually changed the fluid completely out, but I attended a BMW brake clinic and they had a machine to do it.
The guy did bring up something about power steering fluid. Most people don%26#039;t change it, but it is under a lot of pressure and gets quite warm as well. I change mine every 50k miles.
If you just get as much out as you can with a rubber bulb type turkey baster, then refill with the correct fluid, you%26#039;ll get enough new fluid in to do the job. |||Toyota may say it does in the service manual but rarely does anyone do this.|||not unless you have a problem and some leaks out-they are hydraulic systems so the fluid is fully contained and does not get used up. |||No. Unless you get moisture or dirt in it, just keep it at proper levels.
And break is spelled brake.|||YES, YOU SHOULD CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID EVERY 2 YEARS DUE TO FLUID CONTAMINATION AND THERMAL BREAKDOWN, THE BOILING POINT GETS LOWER AND YOUR BRAKES COULD OVERHEAT GOING DOWN A STEEP HILL OR HEAVY STOPPING, SUCK IT OUT THE RESERVOIR AND REFILL WITH NEW FLUID, THEN BLEED ALL 4 BRAKES MAKING SURE TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL. AS FAR AS THE POWER STEERING FLUID YES YOU SHOULD TO KEEP FROM ABNORMAL WEAR TO THE RACK AND PINION STEERING RACK DUE TO FLUID VISCOSITY BREAKDOWN. THIS IS FROM A MECHANIC VIEWPOINT. HOPE THAT HELPS.
Problem changing Front break pads?
I changed my front break pads for 2005 mazda 6. Now i have lost all the pressure / stiffness of the break pedal and the front break don%26#039;t seem to work. While removing the caliper i had to detach the hose and little bit break fluid leaked. I topped off the break fluid after i was done. Any help would be greatly appreciated.|||no problem relax, you need to bleed your front brakes. you will need a 1/4 inch clear vacuum hose at least a pint of brake fluid dot 3 suggest 2 though, a small clear jar and a set of metric end wrenches also a willing partner,
1st - start at the passenger front wheel,
put enough fresh brake fluid in the bottom of the glass jar to allow you to keep the end of the clear hose submerged with space for the addition of more fluid Id say 1/3 from bottom is close.
2nd locate the fitting that looks like a tiny baby nipple on the upper section of your caliper
3rd -- find the wrench that fits the nut at the base of the nipple
4th slide the hose over the nipple end of the fitting it should be tight. turn the nut counter clock wise to free it and snug it back for a minute.
5th have your willing partner pump the brake from the top to the floor or hard as they can press it 5 times quickly and hold on the 5th their foot hard to the pedal, have them call out to you that they are ready.
6th - loosen the nut again on the caliper and observe the the jar of fluid you will see bublles and old fluid enter. re lock the nut and have the helper repeat the process 2 more times.
7th-- check and top the master cylinder fluid
repeat steps 1 thru 7 on the drivers side never let the resevoir go dry !!! you have to start again if you do!!
you now should have good working brakes|||did you bleed your breaks?|||you got air in there. bleed the brake lines, might as well do all four corners. either gravity bleed them or if you got help pressure bleed.|||did you attach the line back properly? did you bleed all the air out of the brake lines? it probably would be a good idea if you don%26#039;t want to get in an accident.|||You have air in the brake hoses. You have to %26#039;bleed%26#039; the brakes. This requires two people. One loosens the bleed nipple. the other one slowly depresses the brake pedal. When fluid starts to come out of the nipple, quickly tighten it up, while the other person keeps the pressure on the pedal. Top up the fluid in the reservoir, and repeat this on all wheels. If you%26#039;ve been driving around for a while, some air may have moved up the pipes, so you may have to do this a couple of times before you get it right|||hey dude, you need only to do is %26quot;air bleed%26#039; the system, but you cannot do it by yourself, ask for some help with mechanics... never try to do practice repair on brake, its%26#039; complicated and dangerous. call someone.....|||next time don%26#039;t remove the brake line. just open the bleeder screw and push the piston back in with a brake piston tool. save you a lot of trouble !|||absolutly nust bleed brakes. why the hell did you disconnect the hose derrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr|||You may have to bleed the brakes in a complicated procedure. Many of todays newer cars have brake systems that casue your problem if you don%26#039;t go thru this complicated procedure that requires everthing from unplugging the ABS computer to having one line wide open while bleeding another.|||Bleed the system|||you now need to bleed the brakes since you loosened the brake hose and let air into the brake system, Just bleed the 2 front calipers and you will get your pedal back.
1st - start at the passenger front wheel,
put enough fresh brake fluid in the bottom of the glass jar to allow you to keep the end of the clear hose submerged with space for the addition of more fluid Id say 1/3 from bottom is close.
2nd locate the fitting that looks like a tiny baby nipple on the upper section of your caliper
3rd -- find the wrench that fits the nut at the base of the nipple
4th slide the hose over the nipple end of the fitting it should be tight. turn the nut counter clock wise to free it and snug it back for a minute.
5th have your willing partner pump the brake from the top to the floor or hard as they can press it 5 times quickly and hold on the 5th their foot hard to the pedal, have them call out to you that they are ready.
6th - loosen the nut again on the caliper and observe the the jar of fluid you will see bublles and old fluid enter. re lock the nut and have the helper repeat the process 2 more times.
7th-- check and top the master cylinder fluid
repeat steps 1 thru 7 on the drivers side never let the resevoir go dry !!! you have to start again if you do!!
you now should have good working brakes|||did you bleed your breaks?|||you got air in there. bleed the brake lines, might as well do all four corners. either gravity bleed them or if you got help pressure bleed.|||did you attach the line back properly? did you bleed all the air out of the brake lines? it probably would be a good idea if you don%26#039;t want to get in an accident.|||You have air in the brake hoses. You have to %26#039;bleed%26#039; the brakes. This requires two people. One loosens the bleed nipple. the other one slowly depresses the brake pedal. When fluid starts to come out of the nipple, quickly tighten it up, while the other person keeps the pressure on the pedal. Top up the fluid in the reservoir, and repeat this on all wheels. If you%26#039;ve been driving around for a while, some air may have moved up the pipes, so you may have to do this a couple of times before you get it right|||hey dude, you need only to do is %26quot;air bleed%26#039; the system, but you cannot do it by yourself, ask for some help with mechanics... never try to do practice repair on brake, its%26#039; complicated and dangerous. call someone.....|||next time don%26#039;t remove the brake line. just open the bleeder screw and push the piston back in with a brake piston tool. save you a lot of trouble !|||absolutly nust bleed brakes. why the hell did you disconnect the hose derrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr|||You may have to bleed the brakes in a complicated procedure. Many of todays newer cars have brake systems that casue your problem if you don%26#039;t go thru this complicated procedure that requires everthing from unplugging the ABS computer to having one line wide open while bleeding another.|||Bleed the system|||you now need to bleed the brakes since you loosened the brake hose and let air into the brake system, Just bleed the 2 front calipers and you will get your pedal back.
How often do you change your break light fluid?
: )|||Come on ,Ray! Brake fluid you replace once a 2 years or every 24 K.|||With every muffler bearing lube.|||when you change the air in your tires is a good time.|||i `m sorry, i don`t have time to answer the question. my boss told me to go get the lumber stretcher.|||Don%26#039;t forget to change your tranny fluid to the no freeze kind. Blinker fluid will also work in your brake lights, it%26#039;s the same stuff.
While your at it, rotate your lugnuts for even wear. ANd sharpen your wiper blades.
For better braking, get yourself some cross-drilled brake lines!!!
And if you find a place to buy an aluminum magnet let me know, I lost mine!|||once a day!|||break lights use electricity which the car is replacing every time you drive|||Driving around with bad brake light fluid is a serious problem and should be corrected immediately. If not taken care of brake failure is eminate.
However, the real problem is getting it taken care of. Just as with some care repairs that can only be taken care of at the dealership, this is a problem that can only be taken care of at the factory level.
What you need to do is take the car back to the factory where it was made at and have them take care of it. By the way you may want to have them check the Brake Light Fluid Level Sensor at the same time, chances are you may just have a bad sensor and the fluid doesn%26#039;t need to be changed at all.
While your at it, rotate your lugnuts for even wear. ANd sharpen your wiper blades.
For better braking, get yourself some cross-drilled brake lines!!!
And if you find a place to buy an aluminum magnet let me know, I lost mine!|||once a day!|||break lights use electricity which the car is replacing every time you drive|||Driving around with bad brake light fluid is a serious problem and should be corrected immediately. If not taken care of brake failure is eminate.
However, the real problem is getting it taken care of. Just as with some care repairs that can only be taken care of at the dealership, this is a problem that can only be taken care of at the factory level.
What you need to do is take the car back to the factory where it was made at and have them take care of it. By the way you may want to have them check the Brake Light Fluid Level Sensor at the same time, chances are you may just have a bad sensor and the fluid doesn%26#039;t need to be changed at all.
I have a 2003 Honda civic the maneul says to change break fluid every 3 years, should i change ?
its BRAKE fluild and if the book says do it. Then do it|||No
It%26#039;s a Honda, add gas and oil.
DRIVE FOREVER|||Brake fluid absorbs water from the air over time. This water will cause the boiling point of your brake fluid to lower, making it more likely that in extreme driving conditions, your brakes could fail (by extreme i mean autoX kind of conditions, running up to 100 then back down to 30 over and over again). Most people dont need to worry about this, the owners manual just says that because the dealer wants you to pay them to do it.|||Just go to your mechanic they will help U|||Have you had the car since new?
If not, it wont hurt to change the break fluid, because who knows when the previous owner changed it. If they ever did.|||the reason that Honda recommends the brake fluid change is that the fluid does absorb moisture from the humidity in the air and that over time that water will have a detrimental effect on the seals in the brake system.
You%26#039;ve probably had friends or relatives who have had to replace a brake master cylinder at some point. The usual reason that the master cylinder fails is that the internal seals that are not lubricated by good quality brake fluid fail and the master cylinder can no longer pressurize the system. Excessive fluid contamination can also cause rust to form inside the brake system and rust causes seals to wear and eventually leak. Also, the brake fluid suspends rubber particles that come from inside the brake hoses that can cause internal seal wear.
I don%26#039;t believe in most of the fluid %26#039;flushes%26#039; or %26#039;services%26#039; such as the engine flush or the power steering flush. However, I honestly believe that the Honda recommendation is right on the mark and I%26#039;ve done it on each of my 4 Hondas right on schedule because I%26#039;ve seen too many leaking master cylinders at 90,000 miles from cars that didn%26#039;t have the fluid changed.
hope that answers your question|||If your engine fails, you go nowhere.
If your transmission fails, you go nowhere.
If your brakes fail, you die.
Make sure your brakes work.|||Is Maneul your mechanic? He%26#039;s trying to screw you. There are no fluids that break every 3 years.|||yes
It%26#039;s a Honda, add gas and oil.
DRIVE FOREVER|||Brake fluid absorbs water from the air over time. This water will cause the boiling point of your brake fluid to lower, making it more likely that in extreme driving conditions, your brakes could fail (by extreme i mean autoX kind of conditions, running up to 100 then back down to 30 over and over again). Most people dont need to worry about this, the owners manual just says that because the dealer wants you to pay them to do it.|||Just go to your mechanic they will help U|||Have you had the car since new?
If not, it wont hurt to change the break fluid, because who knows when the previous owner changed it. If they ever did.|||the reason that Honda recommends the brake fluid change is that the fluid does absorb moisture from the humidity in the air and that over time that water will have a detrimental effect on the seals in the brake system.
You%26#039;ve probably had friends or relatives who have had to replace a brake master cylinder at some point. The usual reason that the master cylinder fails is that the internal seals that are not lubricated by good quality brake fluid fail and the master cylinder can no longer pressurize the system. Excessive fluid contamination can also cause rust to form inside the brake system and rust causes seals to wear and eventually leak. Also, the brake fluid suspends rubber particles that come from inside the brake hoses that can cause internal seal wear.
I don%26#039;t believe in most of the fluid %26#039;flushes%26#039; or %26#039;services%26#039; such as the engine flush or the power steering flush. However, I honestly believe that the Honda recommendation is right on the mark and I%26#039;ve done it on each of my 4 Hondas right on schedule because I%26#039;ve seen too many leaking master cylinders at 90,000 miles from cars that didn%26#039;t have the fluid changed.
hope that answers your question|||If your engine fails, you go nowhere.
If your transmission fails, you go nowhere.
If your brakes fail, you die.
Make sure your brakes work.|||Is Maneul your mechanic? He%26#039;s trying to screw you. There are no fluids that break every 3 years.|||yes
Was break fluid the cause of this?
Yesterday night, I was changing my break fluid. I did notice that I spilled some of it onto the bumper of my car, and this morning there is a grey spot on the same area. Did break fluid really cause the skin to crack overnight?? I didn%26#039;t clean it because it didn%26#039;t seem like a big deal to me.|||Yep brake fluid eats paint just read the back label and it will say not to get on a painted surface.|||Break fluid will eat the paint right off a car.|||yes that stuff is deadly to paint. goto the dealer or a auto finishers store and see if they have the factory paint in a spray can and spray it on there and put some clear coat on it and after it dries good buff the bumper|||yep brake fluid can cause that and also peel the paint too if it gets on the paint.
Do i need to change my break fluid?
I noticed a few months ago that my emergency break light would come on when the break was down. it would happen in the same spots every time. however when i would let go of the gas it would turn off. also when i pump the break it would turn off too. i consulted my cars handbook and it says that it needs break fluid. i have never changed my break fluid (%26amp; right now its on min). do they usually change it when i get my oil changed? also should i add some or does it sound like a bigger problem?|||it does sound like the fluid level is low,but why?is the real question ,it may be low due to worn brake pads/shoes or it could have a leak in a line,caliper,wheel cylinder or master cylinder.I suggest to take it to a good mechanic and have the brakes inspected and the fluid changed at the same time as any potential repairs are done.Brake fluid should be changed every 2yrs or when overheated brakes have occured and is not normally done with a lube service unless requested.hope this helps|||No, not as frequently as you are supposed to change the oil.
But there are recommended limits for Brake (and other fluids) change in the car%26#039;s manual. This normally range is from 30,000 to 60,000 miles. However, unless your car has done over 100,000 miles, I would not expect it to cause brake fault light to be On. It appears to be in need of topping up. Topping up is easy, the container on which you read Min. and Max has a filler cap also. You would also find the spec of the Brake fluid (usually Dot 3). However if it is still over the Min mark, I would suspect the level switch. or very worn brake pads If the level is down, you must also look for the cause. Check wetting around wheel cylinders and the master cylinder and immediately get it rectified.|||You need to have the brake system evaluated right now. If you where my client I would tell you to have the car towed to the shop and would tell you not to drive it. When events like this start to happen it is never a good idea to let it go for very long. Most manufactures recommend the brake fluid to be changed every 30,000 miles. We do it every 15000. The quickly lube places only check the brake fluid and add if needed. They do not change it. You are most likely in need of new pads on the front of the car as well as inspection and replacement on the rear. You never mentioned how many miles are on the car. But if you have more then 60K I would have the dealer or shop replace ALL of the fluids in the car. Power steering, transmission, oil, breaks, and coolant.|||The first and second answers were very good. I would go with the 2nd answer if I was talking to you on the phone and here is why.
Definition of Brake from dictionary.com:
-----To stop or slow upon being braked.-----
At a point, and only the brake fairy knows this, the brakes may fail. You might then seek the definition of %26quot;break%26quot; because when they do fail you might not be able to stop at that red light.
If you buy a gallon(U.S.) of milk and put it in the refrigerator with the top sealed, and some disappears, you will see the white color running down. Brake fluid is more clear and can leak from places hard to see.
The bottom line is that you have a serious problem that can have serious consequences. When there is a loss of fluid there is almost always a %26quot;leak%26quot;. A leak will mean that the fluid will become too low to fill the lines and prevent braking. It also means there will be air in the lines.
You certainly need to top off the reservoir and get this checked out.|||add brake fluid and see how long it takes to get back down to the current level it should stay full for a long time if it drains within a couple weeks have your brakes inspected immediately you could have a cracked line which if not found could cause damage to your vehicle if unable to stop efficiently and quickly|||You don%26#039;t need to change your brake fluids. Instead, have your brake pads replaced. Your car is telling you it%26#039;s time to service the brakes before you have wear and tear in the brake system. If you replace the pads now you will save about 150 to 200 dollars for rotors and labor. If you wait you will be paying for parts that probably wouldn%26#039;t need replacing when a car is properly maintained.|||That lite tells you that the safe level of brake fluid is low, probably due to worn brakes or a leak in the brake system somewhere. Play it safe and have the brake system thoroughly checked for any possible cause mentioned above, then have it repaired. That little lite may save your life in a panic stop.
good luck.....|||not really most likely your rear brake bad shoul d have brake check and replace been driving 40 yrs ive never replace my brake fluid in any car my car i have now has over 300,000 miles never been done yet|||Just Add some Dot3 brake fluid and see how it goes from there.|||as disk brake pads wear down, the brake caliper pistons move out closer to the brake rotor and this causes the brake fluid level to drop in the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir.
Your brake light coming on should signal you to check the fluid level, and since it is at the minimum level mark, you should have the brakes checked as this is how this system is designed to function, when it hits the minimum mark, your brakes need servicing soon!
just adding fluid will not fix anything but stop the light from coming on
If you car has ABS (anti-lock brakes) and you live in a state with moderate to high humidity, it is a good idea to have the brake fluid replaced and the old fluid flushed out by bleeding the brakes whenever the pads are replaced. You can tell by the color of the fluid, if it looks black, it is old, if it is transparent and clear, it is OK
Some vehicles, like Ford trucks with RABS (rear anti-lock brake system) require new fluid and flushing annually to prevent problems with the RABS valve from corrosion.
Some quick oil change places will top off the brake fluid when you have the oil changed, if they do that and it was at the minimum mark and they don%26#039;t tell you they are really doing you a disservice, because that should trigger an immediate brake inspection!
But there are recommended limits for Brake (and other fluids) change in the car%26#039;s manual. This normally range is from 30,000 to 60,000 miles. However, unless your car has done over 100,000 miles, I would not expect it to cause brake fault light to be On. It appears to be in need of topping up. Topping up is easy, the container on which you read Min. and Max has a filler cap also. You would also find the spec of the Brake fluid (usually Dot 3). However if it is still over the Min mark, I would suspect the level switch. or very worn brake pads If the level is down, you must also look for the cause. Check wetting around wheel cylinders and the master cylinder and immediately get it rectified.|||You need to have the brake system evaluated right now. If you where my client I would tell you to have the car towed to the shop and would tell you not to drive it. When events like this start to happen it is never a good idea to let it go for very long. Most manufactures recommend the brake fluid to be changed every 30,000 miles. We do it every 15000. The quickly lube places only check the brake fluid and add if needed. They do not change it. You are most likely in need of new pads on the front of the car as well as inspection and replacement on the rear. You never mentioned how many miles are on the car. But if you have more then 60K I would have the dealer or shop replace ALL of the fluids in the car. Power steering, transmission, oil, breaks, and coolant.|||The first and second answers were very good. I would go with the 2nd answer if I was talking to you on the phone and here is why.
Definition of Brake from dictionary.com:
-----To stop or slow upon being braked.-----
At a point, and only the brake fairy knows this, the brakes may fail. You might then seek the definition of %26quot;break%26quot; because when they do fail you might not be able to stop at that red light.
If you buy a gallon(U.S.) of milk and put it in the refrigerator with the top sealed, and some disappears, you will see the white color running down. Brake fluid is more clear and can leak from places hard to see.
The bottom line is that you have a serious problem that can have serious consequences. When there is a loss of fluid there is almost always a %26quot;leak%26quot;. A leak will mean that the fluid will become too low to fill the lines and prevent braking. It also means there will be air in the lines.
You certainly need to top off the reservoir and get this checked out.|||add brake fluid and see how long it takes to get back down to the current level it should stay full for a long time if it drains within a couple weeks have your brakes inspected immediately you could have a cracked line which if not found could cause damage to your vehicle if unable to stop efficiently and quickly|||You don%26#039;t need to change your brake fluids. Instead, have your brake pads replaced. Your car is telling you it%26#039;s time to service the brakes before you have wear and tear in the brake system. If you replace the pads now you will save about 150 to 200 dollars for rotors and labor. If you wait you will be paying for parts that probably wouldn%26#039;t need replacing when a car is properly maintained.|||That lite tells you that the safe level of brake fluid is low, probably due to worn brakes or a leak in the brake system somewhere. Play it safe and have the brake system thoroughly checked for any possible cause mentioned above, then have it repaired. That little lite may save your life in a panic stop.
good luck.....|||not really most likely your rear brake bad shoul d have brake check and replace been driving 40 yrs ive never replace my brake fluid in any car my car i have now has over 300,000 miles never been done yet|||Just Add some Dot3 brake fluid and see how it goes from there.|||as disk brake pads wear down, the brake caliper pistons move out closer to the brake rotor and this causes the brake fluid level to drop in the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir.
Your brake light coming on should signal you to check the fluid level, and since it is at the minimum level mark, you should have the brakes checked as this is how this system is designed to function, when it hits the minimum mark, your brakes need servicing soon!
just adding fluid will not fix anything but stop the light from coming on
If you car has ABS (anti-lock brakes) and you live in a state with moderate to high humidity, it is a good idea to have the brake fluid replaced and the old fluid flushed out by bleeding the brakes whenever the pads are replaced. You can tell by the color of the fluid, if it looks black, it is old, if it is transparent and clear, it is OK
Some vehicles, like Ford trucks with RABS (rear anti-lock brake system) require new fluid and flushing annually to prevent problems with the RABS valve from corrosion.
Some quick oil change places will top off the brake fluid when you have the oil changed, if they do that and it was at the minimum mark and they don%26#039;t tell you they are really doing you a disservice, because that should trigger an immediate brake inspection!
How often should you have your break fluid changed?
is there a legal requirement by the law that requires a car%26#039;s break fluid to be drained and flushed and refilled after so many years use ?|||never change it unles it gets contaminated. I%26#039;ll bet if you look in the owners manual you will not find anything about changing brake fluid any where in the book. Just like the steering flushes they try to sell. Money maker for the dishonest|||it is recommened to be changed every two years|||no laws...however it is a good idea to replace brake fluid on higher mileage vehicles as it absorbs water(hygroscopic) and when contaminated can cause brake component failure. THC,the word is HYGROSCOPIC(look it up)|||Check your owners manual. We used to do it at the 30,000 mile service. Brake fluid absorbs moisture (water) which leads to corrosion in the master cylinder and wheel cylinders.|||There is no requirement to have your brake fluid flushed. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. If the fluid looks dark it means it has taken on some moisture, but nothing to worry about. If you%26#039;re going to be racing you will want clean fluid in order to keep the boiling point down, but for a daily driver it is not neccesary.|||I don%26#039;t know of any law, but I have always changed mine every two years, you cant take chances with brakes ,it%26#039;s your life your family%26#039;s life and any one else on the road.Take no shortcuts with safety that%26#039;s what I believe in.|||No legal limit.Recommend checking every 5000 miles unless faulty ie break fluid leaking|||Every 2 years. No law about it only the guarantee requirements for the car.
By the way it is BRAKE and not BREAK.|||No, just change it every time your brakes stop working! Works for me, okay a few shop windows and small children have paid the price, but hey!|||There is no legal requirement to change the brake fluid in your vehicle. Yes, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. MAP guidelines state that you may suggest replacement of brake fluid when the copper content reaches 150-199 ppm. They go on to state that a copper content of 200+ ppm is needed to require a flush.
This is tested by using a dip strip that you stick in the master cylinder and check against a guide.
The way this works is as the additives in the brake fluid break down, copper that is in the brake lines start to flake off and float in the fluid, the dip strip tests for this to know that the additives are depleted.|||there is no law but if you live in england it is RECOMENDED every 2 years!
on the continant ie spain every 2/3 years|||Normaly every 2 years, check owners hand book.
I would advise more often depending on usage/mileage.
Most garages have a tester that checks the brake fluid for water contamination.
If you are changing it yourself make sure you use the correct fluid i.e.dot4 etc.|||There is no legal requirement but to be sensible have it drained and replenished every 10000 mile service
By the way it is BRAKE and not BREAK.|||No, just change it every time your brakes stop working! Works for me, okay a few shop windows and small children have paid the price, but hey!|||There is no legal requirement to change the brake fluid in your vehicle. Yes, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time. MAP guidelines state that you may suggest replacement of brake fluid when the copper content reaches 150-199 ppm. They go on to state that a copper content of 200+ ppm is needed to require a flush.
This is tested by using a dip strip that you stick in the master cylinder and check against a guide.
The way this works is as the additives in the brake fluid break down, copper that is in the brake lines start to flake off and float in the fluid, the dip strip tests for this to know that the additives are depleted.|||there is no law but if you live in england it is RECOMENDED every 2 years!
on the continant ie spain every 2/3 years|||Normaly every 2 years, check owners hand book.
I would advise more often depending on usage/mileage.
Most garages have a tester that checks the brake fluid for water contamination.
If you are changing it yourself make sure you use the correct fluid i.e.dot4 etc.|||There is no legal requirement but to be sensible have it drained and replenished every 10000 mile service
Where in the engine do i change the break fluid on a mercedes c180 ?
Mine is a 1995 Model and i want to change the break fluid but dont know where it is. Can anybody please help me out.
Thanks a million|||It%26#039;s not on the engine, but it is in the engine compartment. Beside the engine, towards the driver%26#039;s side, you%26#039;ll see this thing protrudeing out from the firewall about in front of the driver. There%26#039;s a cap on it. That%26#039;s your master cylinder. There%26#039;s brake fluid inside of it.
Thanks a million|||It%26#039;s not on the engine, but it is in the engine compartment. Beside the engine, towards the driver%26#039;s side, you%26#039;ll see this thing protrudeing out from the firewall about in front of the driver. There%26#039;s a cap on it. That%26#039;s your master cylinder. There%26#039;s brake fluid inside of it.
Drain brake fluid before changing break pads yamaha aerox 50cc ?
do you need to drain brake fluid before changing break pads on a yamaha aerox 50cc ped?|||no not really unless its like over 2 years old
keep old pads in use a large screw driver to level the pistons back in to the caliper
take out pads
put copper grease on back of new pads ( dont get any on front of pads )
put back to gether pump brakes for a min
keep old pads in use a large screw driver to level the pistons back in to the caliper
take out pads
put copper grease on back of new pads ( dont get any on front of pads )
put back to gether pump brakes for a min
How do I tell when my break fluid needs changing?
I bought a used car and am replacing most of the fluids but don%26#039;t know if the break fluid needs changing its right at the max so it is not leaking but does it ever get too old if so how do you tell i herd it can change color but what color is it supposed to be and what is a bad color|||every 2 yrs wether it needs it or not.about every other brake job(front brakes,non metallic type).yeah the smell gets funky, it gets dark etc. remember in any hydraulic system there has to be an air exchange,or supply will get slow, and it will pull air for exchange from weak link when not under pressure, but in a vac situation.it is a clear fluid, that is what you look for when changing it, clear.it will feal smooth on your hands, instead of being brown and slightly gritty like wet fingers with a light coat of talc.|||it should be clear if its brown change it|||I agree with Chris- new brake fluid is clear.
However, when it turns brown, it may not necessarily need to be changed.
Changing brake fluid really isn%26#039;t on a mechanic%26#039;s or service shop%26#039;s list of regular maintenance- only change brake fluid when there is a problem, or major brake parts are replaced.
Changing brake fluid requires two people, and need to be bled from every caliper (on each wheel). Refilling the systems requires a proper bleeding procedure to remove any bit of air in the system.
I%26#039;d just add when needed.|||the next time you break a brake line it will get changed by bleeding the brakes ...other than that you may never have to change it for 10 years or more .... maybe never ....just as long as you dont mix any other type of oil with it . DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT !|||every 3 or 4 years.
Brake fluid picks up moisture through the neoprene flex lines and contaminates the master cylinder and the calipers and wheel cylinders. The newer Prestone synthetic Dot 3 or 4 works great and has a higher boiling point than regular fluid and stays cleaner longer. Most people have the misconception that brake fluid does not need to be changed regularly just as they do about not changing engine coolant. Dirty fluid can lead to very expensive repairs/replacement of calipers and master cylinders when $10 and an 1-1/2 hours time can prevent that.|||its a lite tan color when new, if it looks dark its fine , but if it is black , or really dark brown its in need of a flush|||Read the owner%26#039;s manual, in general. All brake fluids require changing since they all absorb moisture over time. Believe me when I tell you that the safest thing to do is to use the factory fluid from your car-makers dealership. THe esters used in various fluids are NOT compatible and can cause trouble. When the fluid gets dark, it%26#039;s due for changing. European cars use brake fluid based upon a synthetic vegetable oil, e.g. Generic fluids used at quicky lubes can cause trouble, as can the universal fluids found at most car part stores. Mixing these together may cause rubber rot in seals.
However, when it turns brown, it may not necessarily need to be changed.
Changing brake fluid really isn%26#039;t on a mechanic%26#039;s or service shop%26#039;s list of regular maintenance- only change brake fluid when there is a problem, or major brake parts are replaced.
Changing brake fluid requires two people, and need to be bled from every caliper (on each wheel). Refilling the systems requires a proper bleeding procedure to remove any bit of air in the system.
I%26#039;d just add when needed.|||the next time you break a brake line it will get changed by bleeding the brakes ...other than that you may never have to change it for 10 years or more .... maybe never ....just as long as you dont mix any other type of oil with it . DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT !|||every 3 or 4 years.
Brake fluid picks up moisture through the neoprene flex lines and contaminates the master cylinder and the calipers and wheel cylinders. The newer Prestone synthetic Dot 3 or 4 works great and has a higher boiling point than regular fluid and stays cleaner longer. Most people have the misconception that brake fluid does not need to be changed regularly just as they do about not changing engine coolant. Dirty fluid can lead to very expensive repairs/replacement of calipers and master cylinders when $10 and an 1-1/2 hours time can prevent that.|||its a lite tan color when new, if it looks dark its fine , but if it is black , or really dark brown its in need of a flush|||Read the owner%26#039;s manual, in general. All brake fluids require changing since they all absorb moisture over time. Believe me when I tell you that the safest thing to do is to use the factory fluid from your car-makers dealership. THe esters used in various fluids are NOT compatible and can cause trouble. When the fluid gets dark, it%26#039;s due for changing. European cars use brake fluid based upon a synthetic vegetable oil, e.g. Generic fluids used at quicky lubes can cause trouble, as can the universal fluids found at most car part stores. Mixing these together may cause rubber rot in seals.
I am replacing all 4 pads, 2 front rotors, and resurfacing back rotors and changing break fluid. $956?!?
is 956 dollars an insane amount to pay for that work on this car? Should I even have the brake fluid changed?|||well depends where you went, but for dealership prices thats pretty normal, at dealership prices youve got nearly $300 in parts with tax alone, bleeding brakes and changing fluid isnt as easy as it used to be with older cars, now a computer must be hooked up to the car to cycle the ABS components to totally bleed the system, dooing all of this is very time consuming and requires two people, resurfacing rotors isnt so bad, it just takes time. At a dealership you pay for the amount of time a job takes.|||How come?? Don%26#039;t you know enough to check brakes till they are %26quot;metal eating metal%26quot;??**** If no major physical damage is done to brakes right now, you are getting sold a %26quot;bill of goods!%26quot;
First of all rear brakes wear out only about 1/3 - 1/2 as fast as front brakes, as only about 30% of braking is done by rears! Second, if rotors (discs) aren%26#039;t worn down to metal to metal from bad pads, they can probably be %26quot;resurfaced%26quot;!
And if the most expensive parts known to man are not used,- it shouldn%26#039;t cost anywhere near this amount!
So rear brakes may be ok yet, as for replacing brake fluid, -- it is nice, -- but not manditory, -- generally I don%26#039;t replace brake fluid, unless I have master cylinder changed, or need to replace one of wheel cylinders, -- so bleed out old fluid while system is %26quot;open%26quot;! And even that only happens about 100K- (+) miles!
New is nice!! But for a little more you can repalce the whole car and have it ALL new!
Maybe you better have somebody else check them out for you!!|||Well, let%26#039;s see. Just call the auto parts store and ask for prices. Or call two. Phone calls are cheap. Saving $600 is cheap, too. Four sets of pads should cost about $30-$50. Two rotors for my %26#039;87 Honda Civic cost about $30 in %26#039;90. Turning them cost about $30 in 1990. and replacing the rotors was so fast and easy I always did it myself, needing only a $10 impact screwdriver to loosen the screws and an hour and a half for just the front brakes. And I am not a mechanic. Yes, that%26#039;s pretty high. You can expect a dealer to be very high. Anyplace else--I certainly wouldn%26#039;t let them change the brake fluid. Why in the world would you change the brake fluid, anyway? I put 240,000 DELIVERY miles, with 700 deliveries a DAY, all requiring high speed stops, for six YEARS, and NEVER had to change the brake fluid on my %26#039;87 Honda. Or Hyundai. Or Kia. Or Chevy.
At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car%26#039;s symptoms, also a %26quot;Maintenance%26quot; section that details exactly what maintenance is needed, and when. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot; Looks like it%26#039;s going to be required reading (the maintenance section is not long) nowadays to survive.
Another survival skill may need to be the ability to pick up the phone book (the library has a copy if you don%26#039;t), look up %26quot;Automobiles--Repairs%26quot; in the Yellow pages (or use the internet), pick three small advertisements close by, and ask, %26quot;About how much would it be to change brake pads and rotors on a 2005 Altima (or your year and model car)? Thank you very much.%26quot; And if something ELSE goes wrong with the car soon after the work is done, take it someplace else, otherwise, reward good work with a recommendation to friends, a tip, repeat business, whatever you can think of!
db667089 says: you can check http://www.alldatadiy.com. For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton%26#039;s repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.
Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at http://eAutoRepair.com.
Also, many people recommend autozone.com%26#039;s free online manuals.
Best regards,
Mike|||Ummm, hello, how about year/make/model of vehicle. Without that information your question is useless. For a Cavalier the price would be outrageous. For a Corvette maybe not so much.|||I don%26#039;t know if I would flush the hydraulic system, but the brake work can be done for that price. If in doubt, get more estimates.|||lol the brake pads itself are like 60 bucks lol holy crap|||sounds like rape to me.|||yes- check around- 500 is more than enough
First of all rear brakes wear out only about 1/3 - 1/2 as fast as front brakes, as only about 30% of braking is done by rears! Second, if rotors (discs) aren%26#039;t worn down to metal to metal from bad pads, they can probably be %26quot;resurfaced%26quot;!
And if the most expensive parts known to man are not used,- it shouldn%26#039;t cost anywhere near this amount!
So rear brakes may be ok yet, as for replacing brake fluid, -- it is nice, -- but not manditory, -- generally I don%26#039;t replace brake fluid, unless I have master cylinder changed, or need to replace one of wheel cylinders, -- so bleed out old fluid while system is %26quot;open%26quot;! And even that only happens about 100K- (+) miles!
New is nice!! But for a little more you can repalce the whole car and have it ALL new!
Maybe you better have somebody else check them out for you!!|||Well, let%26#039;s see. Just call the auto parts store and ask for prices. Or call two. Phone calls are cheap. Saving $600 is cheap, too. Four sets of pads should cost about $30-$50. Two rotors for my %26#039;87 Honda Civic cost about $30 in %26#039;90. Turning them cost about $30 in 1990. and replacing the rotors was so fast and easy I always did it myself, needing only a $10 impact screwdriver to loosen the screws and an hour and a half for just the front brakes. And I am not a mechanic. Yes, that%26#039;s pretty high. You can expect a dealer to be very high. Anyplace else--I certainly wouldn%26#039;t let them change the brake fluid. Why in the world would you change the brake fluid, anyway? I put 240,000 DELIVERY miles, with 700 deliveries a DAY, all requiring high speed stops, for six YEARS, and NEVER had to change the brake fluid on my %26#039;87 Honda. Or Hyundai. Or Kia. Or Chevy.
At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car%26#039;s symptoms, also a %26quot;Maintenance%26quot; section that details exactly what maintenance is needed, and when. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot; Looks like it%26#039;s going to be required reading (the maintenance section is not long) nowadays to survive.
Another survival skill may need to be the ability to pick up the phone book (the library has a copy if you don%26#039;t), look up %26quot;Automobiles--Repairs%26quot; in the Yellow pages (or use the internet), pick three small advertisements close by, and ask, %26quot;About how much would it be to change brake pads and rotors on a 2005 Altima (or your year and model car)? Thank you very much.%26quot; And if something ELSE goes wrong with the car soon after the work is done, take it someplace else, otherwise, reward good work with a recommendation to friends, a tip, repeat business, whatever you can think of!
db667089 says: you can check http://www.alldatadiy.com. For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton%26#039;s repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.
Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at http://eAutoRepair.com.
Also, many people recommend autozone.com%26#039;s free online manuals.
Best regards,
Mike|||Ummm, hello, how about year/make/model of vehicle. Without that information your question is useless. For a Cavalier the price would be outrageous. For a Corvette maybe not so much.|||I don%26#039;t know if I would flush the hydraulic system, but the brake work can be done for that price. If in doubt, get more estimates.|||lol the brake pads itself are like 60 bucks lol holy crap|||sounds like rape to me.|||yes- check around- 500 is more than enough
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