Brakes go to the floor no pressure at all 3.0L sebring coupe '01?

I changed my wheel hub and had to take caliper off to do so... all went well and I depressed caliper with C clamp to get caliper over pads like normal... when i got everything together and went to start the car i had no breaks. I bled them all day starting with the rear right like the book said. the rear drivers and front passenger side fluid came out strong but the other to barely came out. I am not leaking any break fluid or i am not low. when i used the C clamp i didn't have the reservoir open. What could be my problem, and how do you test it before i spend 99 on master, 199 on booster, or 60 on caliper. I need real help thanks a bunch. Oh its all disk breaks.
Brakes go to the floor no pressure at all 3.0L sebring coupe '01?
on the front driver side open bleeder valve DO NOT PUMP BRAKES just leave open until a steady flow of brake fluid is coming out.refill brake reservior and the bleed your back brakes starting with the right rear until you have a steady flow coming out then do the left rear.that should fix your problem.in the future when bleeding front brakes just open the bleeders until fluid is flowing out ten tighten no need to pump to bleed the brakes you just push air into the rest of the system
Brakes go to the floor no pressure at all 3.0L sebring coupe '01?
Double check all your lines make sure caliper is fine.

fill master cylinder bench bleed it.

bleed them all again.

Still have a problem

its probably master cylinder.
Well for one the clamps can compress the piston so far it has take up, at which point you have to pump the brakes.



When you bled the brakes did you make sure it had lots and lots of fluid in there? Was it coming out the nice amber color (but more importantly no bubbles)?



It's important to actually have a tube on the nipple so that brake fluid can flow back in when your buddy is stomping the brakes, otherwise you're taking air into the system.
this requires two people if there is no leak then you did something



person #1 push brake and hold it and you release pressure slowly by opening the valve you close the valve and person #1 releases keep doing this till there is no more air in the system

good tanning lotion

Where can i get a cute new bed set

Need some answers for issues with 93 Honda Accord 2.2L?

1st Q- A few days ago I started my car, within the first 10 minutes it was driving fine till i had to sit in traffic. I was in D4 and once traffic started to move I pushed on the gas and it seemed as if it was in neutral. I pushed my foot down farther and it was start to inch slowly forward. It was as if pressure was lost. Father of my kids was in the car with me, and he put it in D3, it acted the same. He then changed it into 2nd and it drove like how it should as if nothing was wrong. We pulled over and when I put it in park, the D4 stayed highlighted on my dashboard along with park. Also I could here a constant clicking noise going on every few seconds from the gear shift while in park, and it never did that before. If anyone can give me any idea of what they think it could be it would help. It is an automatic and it was having no issues before this incident and no noise or slips.



2nd Q-Father of my kids said he had noticed fluid leaking from my car recently after the gearshift started acting up. He stuck his finger in the fluid which had leaked in the drive way and it was not oil. He suspects it is the transmission fluid. So I purchased some but I was wondering where does the transmission fluid go.

Also where does the antifreeze/water go as well. Im use to pouring it into a white container under the hood but there isnt one under the hood for the honda. The father of my kids says the antifreeze (or water) suppose to go straight into the radiator. I honestly dont trust his thoughts of where he thinks it goes.





3rd Q- I decided to pop the hood to check some of the fluid levels in the car. I have three plastic white looking containers under my hood, the 4th which was for the windshield fluid had recently been removed. So I have two on both right and left side near the top and one on the lower right. The one of the lower right is says its for power steering, but for some odd reason both on the top left and right say there both for break fluid. Im sure there has to be something wrong with that picture but Im curious if anyone has seen that, if its not suppose to be that way Im guessing whoever owned it previous to me just took a cap off of another vehicle and decided to use it over that container since it fit. I havent had a chance to check my manual for my car, I just thought Id throw it in there.
Need some answers for issues with 93 Honda Accord 2.2L?
Check the transmission fluid level:

1. Start car and let it warm up.

2. Remove transmission oil dipstick

3. Wipe it clean with a paper towel

4. Re-insert the dipstick fully

5. Remove the dipstick

6. Read the fluid level. It should be between two marks on the dipstick.



You add transmission fluid to the same tube that the dipstick is located. Add one pint at a time (not the whole quart).



Without a picture of the engine compartment, I can't be too specific.



Antifreeze goes into the white tank (it's a coolant overflow tank) that has a small black tube that runs from the overflow tank to the the radiator, near the cap.

Brake fluid goes into the one with two steel tubes (they look like they are aluminum color, but believe me, they are steel).

Power steering fluid goes to the one that is connected to the power steering pump.



You need to check again on the two that say they are for brake fluid. Something doesn't sound right on that item. You're probably right on your presumption about a substitute cap, but substitute caps don't usually fit any tank except for the one it was designed for.



Cars usually have six fluids - coolant, transmission, brake, power steering, engine oil, windshield washer. Seven fluids for rear drive vehicles - rear axle.



I get the impression that this car was previously owned - so the previous owner many have done some modifications under the hood.
Need some answers for issues with 93 Honda Accord 2.2L?
transmission needs fluid %26amp; could be going bad. I suggest buying a Haynes repair manual for your car

for $14 bucks. It will save you allot in repairs.
With automatic transmissions, they can be temperamental at times but in your situation, it seems as there is something physically wrong with it. It is possible that according to the findings of the Father of your kids, that you may have oil leaking from your transmission. If this is the case, putting transmission fluid in your car is not going to fix your problem as it will continue to leak and I highly recommend that you take your car to a mechanic and get it checked before the problem worsens.



In regards to your question with the 2 brake fluid caps located on the top left and right. Based on the images that I have been able to source from this here wonderful Internet, the top left cap is for the transmission fluid and the top right is for the brake fluid. Should you want to add more coolant and/or antifreeze, the cap in the front of the engine bay on top of the radiator is where you can add fluid.
if it is an automatic, you will find the dipstick on the passenger side either in front or rear of the engine bay. check it hot and off and rough;y 30 seconds after you shut it down, the brakes issue, one on the driver side is for the brakes, the other one is for the abs system, it should be marked as such. the 4th one is for the washer fluid like you said. there is another tank along side of the radiator. if you follow the rubber hose down from beside the radiator cap, it will lead you to that overflow tank.
1st Q- I think your transmission selector could be out of adjustment. More so because of the clicking noise and d4 being highlighted along with park. That being said the slipping you aluded to could also be a failing tranny. Check the fluid level; under the hood there should be a dipstick tube that is labeled transmission or simaliar. Pull the dipstick out and smell the fluid, a burnt smell is bad or brown oil, it should be red and clean, you check the level while it is running and warmed up, usually the dipstick itself will tell you wether to check it in park or netrual. To add fluid you use a small funnel and can put it in the dipstick tube. Do not overfill! Make sure you get the right type of fluid for your transmission there are different types and they are not compatible.

2nd Q Antifreeze can go directly into radiator but your right usually there is an overflow container that you add to.

3rd Q there is usually two resevoirs for the brake fluid but they shoul be close together, they also would be on the drivers side of vehical. Hope this helps
1st question you better check the transmission fluid. 2nd question. yes you can fill the reservoir with anti-freeze and if the radiator needs some it will suck it up from there. 3rd question. all those reservoirs should be labeled what they are.

Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?

I recently had to replace an alternator when the car broke down. I did it myself so I know everything that was touched/moved. Ever since then the power steering has been making a whining noise that gets louder when turned left or right.



I drive a 1998 Honda Accord with a 3.0L engine, it has 2 belts (one coming from the crank leading directly to the p/s, and the other coming from the crank leading to the a/c and alternator with a belt tensioner). The only belt I touched was the one leading to the alternator. The belt tensioner does not touch the p/s belt.



There was NO noise or problem before the alternator change. I checked the fluid and it is fine, tried bleeding the fluid and nothing changed. What else could be the problem? Kinda' odd that it happened right after the alternator change. The p/s belt was NOT touched in the least during the change. Also, the whine isn't near as noticeable when you get driving...just at slow speeds and idle.



Thanks for reading,

Brian
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
You need to either tighten the p/s belt or replace it. This would have happened whether you changed the alternator or not. The belt is simply worn and needs tightened up or replaced.

Your car is soon to be nine years old. It is time to replace the belts and hoses if it has not been done already. These rubber items commonly wear out and need to be replaced on occassion.
Whining noise coming from power steering when turned left or right?
My Nissan does that too, and the fluid is also fine...not sure what the problem is.
If there's no fluid leak, the pump could be bad. Double check the belt's wear marks.
it is probably ur ps pump going bad
make sure the belts are tight enough.

I think there is belt dressing you can put on them to quiet them

if you put that on and it changes the sound then you have your answer. if that does something then you might change the belt if the sound comes back



good luck
Many times fixing one thing with a new part WILL lead to a malfunction of an inter-related or associate part...like something connected by belts. Usually when you hear the whining sound...one of the most obnoxious sounds coming from under the hood...it means a low power steering fluid situation...you checked for leaks...so...might be a worn or starting to malfunction pump. Also, when you speed up...more pressure is applied to the pump...possibly over-riding slow speed whine.

How can i tell if my dirtbike is seized?

i just got a 1999 suzuki rm250(im the third owner) and got it from the last owner for free, slips and all, but the motor might be siezed. what would be the easiest way to tell? when you try to kick it, the kicker dosnt budge, like there is a bolt stuck in the motor somewhere. also, if i were to put it in first, and go about 15(getting pulled by a car) the tire just locks up. also, i was going over the bike today, and it seems like there was pure gas in the tank(its a 2 stroke) tho the guy says that he knows for sure he mixed it. he changed all the fluids, im a little suspicious about the level in the tranny, but i doubt that would be it(that would just mess with the clutch). everything else on the bike is cherry, it just wont turn over, and i dont feel like pulling off the top end to find out( gaskets and whatnot....IM BROKE!!)
How can i tell if my dirtbike is seized?
-Put the bike on a stand.

-Put it in neutral. Make sure that the rear wheel turns freely.

-Remove the L crankcase cover and try to turn the flywheel. You should be able to.

-Remove the exhaust pipe and look in the exhaust port with a flashlight. Any scratches or scoring of the piston or cylinder wall and you need engine repair.
How can i tell if my dirtbike is seized?
http://www.tech-forums.net/showthread.php?s=%26amp;threadid=124528

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You've answered your own question. If the engine won't even move (like there is a bolt stuck in it somewhere) then it is seized up. The only thing to do is to disassemble the engine and see if it is salvageable or not. Take it from there. How much money do you want to sink into a %26quot;free%26quot; bike.
take the spark plug out and try to turn the motor over %26quot; there is no compresion when u do this,%26quot; if it doesn't turn its locked up
Sounds like it is seized to me...Listen to what guardrail is telling you...he knows what he's talking about. Good Luck
if it was a simple problem do you really think you would have gotten it for free?
First thing I would do is check the oil. If it has a burnt smell, you just got your first indicator.



Put the bike up on a bike jack, put it in neutral, take the spark plugs out, and look inside each jug. See if you can see a valve that may have slipped in to the cylinder.



If not, try putting spraying some silicone based spray lube in each cylinder and see if you can bump it loose.



If it is seriously seized up from running w/o oil, chances are you will have to pull the heads and tap each cylinder free.



You might be able to get away with honing the cylinder walls and replacing the rings, although your bearings probably are not in real good shape either. Depends on exactly what happened.
There's no such thing as a free dirtbike. From the sound of it the previous owner, and maybe the original owner, probably did zero preventive maintenance. Chances are, if you open the airbox, the filter is clogged or trashed.



If it were me I'd buy a shop manual, take the thing completely apart and replace everything that was questionable. This bike can still be competitive in novice/amateur MX and, with some modifications, even used for trail riding.



Since you have no money, your best bet is to sell it whole or parted-out on e-bay to get what you can out of it.

Last month I had my axel replaced on my car, this month I noticed transmission fluid leaking... I changed..?

the gasket around the Transmission pan and the filter inside the pan.... I cleaned the pan and NOTICED THERE WAS NO STEEL SHAVINGS INSIDE THE PAN (GOOD THING) well 2 days later my trans started leaking again... Since I couldn't fix the problem I took it to a Trans Shop to see what is the Problem,,,, they reported that:::: %26quot;Left Axel is loose where axel goes into transmission seal, and Possible worn parts inside transmission%26quot;%26quot;. I asked how much to repair he said allot 1,500-1,800 because they would have to take trans out, repair then re-install,,,, MY QUESTIONS ARE::: 1) Since the Axel is LOOSE at the trans Seal could this be causing the leak..... 2) How could worn parts be an issue with leaking notice I saw no Steel shavings in the trans pan...... 3) Is the place that replaced my axel at fault) 4.) weren't they supposed to check the seal to see if its tight before installing the axel into that part of the transmission... My uncle said they might have been pounding on the axel to get in in the trans and when they were pounding the may have broke the seal.... What do you all think,,,,, also,,, The place that did my axel,,,, I called them up and asked them do they do trans re-pair they said no %26quot;But we referre everyone to ABCDEF Transmission SHOP in ABC City they are the best around %26quot;. So I took it where they referred me to and that referred place said the axel is loose where the axel goes into transmission seal.. What do you think??? Thank you for your help,,, also I have my car at the Axel repair place right now because they are going to re-place my axel or tighten it up it should not be loose one month after installation...
Last month I had my axel replaced on my car, this month I noticed transmission fluid leaking... I changed..?
The one guy is right, all a trans shop wants to do is rebuild your trans! You only need the seal. $8.00 part. I've had a lot of trouble with these replacement axles from mexico lately, and either your seal got messed up on installation, or a burr on the axel tore the seal. I've replaced hundreds of axles and this has only happened one time. Unfortunately, it was my car, but that was the problem. Hope this helps, good luck!
Last month I had my axel replaced on my car, this month I noticed transmission fluid leaking... I changed..?
Now take it to a mechanic instead of a trans shop. It probably needs a new seal and for a couple hundred you can have it done. Get a second opinion from a reputable mechanic. A trans shop will want to rebuild the trans no matter what. There is more money in it for them, and they can guarantee that nothing will be wrong when you get it back.
well more likey dmage was done first by driving it with bad cv joint and not knowing how long you did it and then next woul dbe might or could have done it when replacing it but not as likely more likey just old an dwore out really going to another shop an dhaving just the seal replace an d not the transmission removed most likey just needs a seal replace sure axle could have done it but more likey they just want your money ive replace my axles twice now over 300,000 miles ive yet to replace seal
a car old enough to have these problems might not be worth investing another $1,800 in the tranny. If the value of the car is not at least twice that amount, think seriously about selling to a person who can fix it themselves, and investing the money in a newer car. You can get pretty nice used cars these days for cheap.

Help with a jerking transmission?

I am driving a 1997 Kia Sephia.



I don't know much about cars, I'm not that kind of guy. Personally, I wish I lived in a place where I didn't need one, all cars do is break down and cost money.



My car has always ran pretty well but recently I moved to a place where I have a larger comute. The check engine light came on today, and my car tends to jerk sometimes around 45 mph or so. It doesn't do it every time, and if I slow down and try again, or boost past that gear range, it usally stops. It hasn't stalled out or anyhting yet.



I have two main questions.



1. I'm only guessing that it is my transmission, is it? And if so, how likely is it that changing the fluid will fix the problem? How much does this usally cost?



2. There is no way I can possibly afford to have anything done to it before the friday after this one coming up. I have to have my car. Do I stand a chance at it not breaking down on me before then?



Thank you.
Help with a jerking transmission?
a check engine is not trans related at all. easy fix go to auto zone or advance auto for free check-up, if replacement part is to expensive ,then go to junk yard. most likely it is a sensor,which can be cleaned, or u may just need new plugs or wires. you should easily make it to payday.
Help with a jerking transmission?
Have the check engine light read and you'll have a better idea of what teh problem is. Many places do it for free. If it turns out to be a transmission problem, a fluid change will rarely fix a problem. It may help prevent a problem from getting worse, though. No guarantees on how long it will hold up. A word of advice on Korean cars: don't buy them. They have low resale value for good reason. They're some of the worst cars ever built.
You need to get your codes read. Auto Zone will do it for you. Just keep in mind that what ever code is in the system don't necessarily mean that part is bad. alot of different things can cause a certain code to be set. but at least it will tell you if it's engine or transmission related.

ie

cat

Engine running rough in a Dodge Stratus 2002?

My car seems to be running differently. I just had the oil changed and all my fluids checked, everything was fine. I just recently had the brake pads replaced and my tie rod replaced. My engine seems to be reving more and when I go to break it has this odd %26quot;hiccup%26quot; where it almost seems like it isn't going to stop. It's not the breaks, it's the engine and I'm not sure what the problem could be and I need some ideas of what I could do or if I do need to take it in and what I would say to the mechinc about what the problem could be.
Engine running rough in a Dodge Stratus 2002?
next fuel fillup put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank i have owned a few dodges in my life all had fuel injector problems try a tune up too can't hurt to try

good luck
Engine running rough in a Dodge Stratus 2002?
are you sure you got the correct weight of the oil? some oils are more viscous than others..
need more info. is it a coupe or sedan? 4 cylinder or 6?
it sounds like your engine is misfiring; check the spark plugs and the air filter
Might be time for a tune up.
It sounds like the shop left a vacuum line loose. Possibly to the brake booster. A vacuum leak willmake your car run badly including revving up and not wanting to stop. Take it back to the shop that worked on it and talk to the service or store manager and explain to him that this problem started after your last visit. If he doesn't fix it for free take it somewhere else, explain to them what happened at the other shop This will give them an idea what to look for. If they do find something underhanded going on, then you just found yourself a new shop who is honest and sympathetic to you. And the other shop can be held liable for trying to rip you off.



ASE technician
sounds like a vacuum leak, from what you describe. listen for a hissing sound. most likely a broken or disconnected rubber hose.

Is it possible that my car engine get broken without any notice?

i drive a ford focus-01, i was driving it, i parked outside a store and when i tried to start it again it make a very noisy sound like if you drop a screwdriver in the engine, i have taken good care of it, every oil change on time, regulary checking on the fluid levels at the dealership, i live in fresno ca. i want to know if this is possible and how's fault it is and what can i do? what are my options? sue anybody or at least blame for it, i have evidence of every oil change and service done. help me please!!!! thank you.
Is it possible that my car engine get broken without any notice?
the starter could have failed which could cause a noise when trying to start.

another possiblity is the timing belt these usually should be replaced every 75000 mile at most.
Is it possible that my car engine get broken without any notice?
If you don't have a warranty on your cars engine etc. then it's possible to have problems....you never know when something is wrong with an engine unless you check it out with a competant service tech. if you bought this auto used then you may have bought someone elses problem..
First of all its a focus, of course it can die without notice.



If the car is out of warranty you are out of luck. Fluid is not the only thing that makes a car run. The quality of gas, driving conditions, suspension lubrication, are all factors as well.



Get someone you trust to check it out, its probably not serious. Could just be a battery, since I'm not sure what sound a screwdriver makes when its dropped into an engine.
You can't ever avoid problems with cars no matter how well cared for. There are usually no rhymes or reasons for various engine components to go bad. They just simply wear out. Sometimes with little or no warning.



In this case it sounds like it might be a starter problem but it could be a clutch failure too among other things.



It does not sound like anything underhanded has gone on.



Sorry...What you can do is have it fixed or not.

Need Help!! Any 'credit' and 'repoman' experts out there?

Man, I'm sick and tired of being way back behind in bills,.. nothing but bills up in here.

I have always maintained my credit decent and always paid everything %26quot;on-time%26quot;.

Well, to get straight into my problem, I have a Ford Expedition that uses about $380 in gas per month. My loan is $330/month on it and I owe around $16,000. If I sell it or trade it in, the negative equity will be around $7,000. OUCH!!! on top of that, the A/C is not working, The Spark Plugs need to be changed, The breaks need to be changed, The transmission fluid needs to be changed,.. oh God my head hurts already. And on top of that I have a few credit card bills floating over my head that were due LAST MONTH.



I was just thinking, maybe just let the repoman take my car out of my hands? .... I bet that it will hurt my credit like crazy. But damn, I need to get back on my feet FINANCIALLY and be able to have a piece of mind every month... I rather buy me a $1000 Civic or something until everything gets better. God damn economy.



My questions are....



Is this a smart move?

Anybody with repo and credit experience,.. how long till your credit went back up?

Is there any faster way in repairing your credit?

How much was your credit points lowered?

Will the car loan bill simply go away?

What will happen after the repoman takes it?

Maybe I still owe the difference after they Auction it??



I just hope not to get any %26quot;You have to go to court%26quot; letters and pay more in fees and lawyers and such lol.



Please pleaseeee any info will be greatly appreciated... specially from people with experience :-)

Thanks.


Need Help!! Any 'credit' and 'repoman' experts out there?
The last thing you'd want to do is have a repossesion on your credit report. It will remain on there for ten years. A $330 car payment is nothing. This isn't worth it. They will take your car. Sell it at an auction for a couple thousand dollars and stiff you with the balance . So you will end up owing them around 10,000. They will than garnish your wages and take up to 25%.

Why would you want to go thru all that?

TRUST me if you are in over your head with bills than you need to get another job.



I'm sorry banks have been doing this forever! They need to do away with their predatory lending practices.
Need Help!! Any 'credit' and 'repoman' experts out there?
After they repo it, they will sell it at an auction and you will owe the difference. It could be far more than the $7000 you quote.



You are taking on a lot of grief that will follow you for many, many years.
Hi

I understand your situation seems grim, but understand the consequences of repossession before you make your decision.

If your car is repossessed you may not be able to get a car loan for at least another year, and it will most likely be through a sub-prime lender.

The car being gone does not mean your problems go with it. The car will be sold at auction. If your car goes for less than what you owe on your contract (don't forget expenses and fee's) you will be responsible for the difference. The bank has the right to go to court and seek a judgment against you for the balance of the loan.

I do not have an answer to your problem; I just do not think repossession is way to go.

Best of luck to you.

Am I leaking amniotic fluid???

I'm 39 weeks pregnant .. and am only dilated 1cm (as of this morning at my exam)

I've noticed since my exam this morning that my underware have been wet .. I changed underware and these new ones are wet as well ... it has no smell (it's not pee) .. is there a chance I'm leaking amniotic fluid??

If I were to leak amniotic fluid instead of my water bag just breaking .. would it be a steady stream down my leg? or could it just cause moisture in my underware???

I'm a first time mom :)

thanks!
Am I leaking amniotic fluid???
My doctor told me that if your hind waters leak it can just cause constant moisture on underware. I would suggest just checking with your doctor because even with a hind water leak you can get an infection.
Am I leaking amniotic fluid???
Please call the DR. if it is a leak there is a chance of infection.
Yes, you most certainly could be. I have done it myself. If it is amniotic fluid, small amounts can gush out periodically; not necessarily run down your leg. If your water broke, then yes, it would run down your leg. Please check with your Dr.
It sounds like you have a leaky water bag... Call your doctor now. I had the same thing and delivered 6 hours later. The doctor told me to get to the hospital so I would be a more germ free environment. Sounds like the baby is close to coming now. Best of luck.
You could be. Or it could just be a discharge. Amniotic fluid does have a smell also, so maybe it could also be sweat. Amniotic fluid doesn't always come out in a steady stream. Usually it stops while you are sitting or laying down. When you stand up is when it comes out more. But you could just have a slow leak. (if this is what it is)



I would give my doc a call just to be on the safe side. That's what they are there for. (and on call for!) Call your doc! Good luck and congrats!
Call the doc. I noticed the same thing and waited untill my doc appointment less then 12 hours away and got an infection. Call your doc ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was just a little. I didnt' even need a pad or anything. I don't want anyone else to go through what i did. Call the doc to be safe!
you could be.

With my first son my waters broke and I certainly knew it.

Water everywhere! gushing,I needed towels between my legs to soak it up.

I would wait a while longer and see if it keeps coming,because if it does your waters are breaking and you will have your baby within 48 hours as there is a risk of infection.

Call your hospital and they will do an internal and let you know.

Good luck!!
i think i can DEFFF help you out. SAMEE thing happened to me. i woke up one day..(5 days before i had her ) and my bed was wet so i thought my water broke..went to the hospital and checked me and it was neither my water or amniotc fluid. they sent me home and told me to watch to see if i leak anything..and i did for 3 or 4 days ..it was like i was peeing my pants..but i wasnt..so finally i said somethings gotta be wrong so i went and they said..ok ur water sack broke and good thing you came in when you did or you would of had a %26quot;dry birth%26quot; which can be VERYYY painful..so i would advise you to go RIGHTTTT now!! it could be one of those above. Jus be safe then sorry ..
My doctor told me if I ever suspected I was leaking amniotic fluid to lay down for a while and then stand up and if you feel a gush of water then it's more than likely leaking.

Whats the Best way to Bleed my Brakes

Ok.. heres the situation its 2am lol.. and i changed my breaks becuase front 2 breaks becuase they were starting to SQEEK. my brake pads were really low.. while i was bleeding the breaks so i coult fit that pressure part(forgot the name) over the new break pads on the cylender i open the Bleeding screw all the way so i think alot of air got inside... right now i drove to the corner and when i press the breaks to stop the car the breaks go right to the floor.. a little pressure at first then nothing... goes right to the floor... i believe i got alot of air inside the break lines ecuase i had my girl pump the breaks while i was changing the pads... waht is the Fastest easiest way to get the air out... should i just open it alittle and let gravity do its thing over night and put new fluid in the morning? i just need the easiest and most efficient way to get the air out of my break line
Whats the Best way to Bleed my Brakes
YES THAT IS THE ONLY WAY IF YOU HAVE AIR IN THE LINE. BUT NEXT TIME YOU CHANGE THE BREAK PADS DON'T USE THE BLEEDER JUST OPEN THE CAP ON FLUID RESIVOIR AND GET A PAIR OF WATER PUMP PLIARS TO PUSH THE CALIPERS BACK IN.
Whats the Best way to Bleed my Brakes
Start with the wheel thats the farthest away from the master cylinder, if you donot, you wont get all the air out~

Then have her pump the peadl until its stiff, and hold it, then you open the bleeder valve until nothing is coming out, the first couple of times, it will be bubbly fluid mixed with air, bleed each valve until its pure fluid coming out, then go to the next farthest wheel and repeat, checking the fluid each time, thats all there is to it.

And BTW you do not have to open the bleeder valves to do the front brakes, just pry the pads away from the rotor using a tire iron or large screwdriver until they are far enough away to place the new ones in.

parameter

background sturdy drive

I have a 1995 chevy 1500 - i went to shift gears and i heard a pop and my pedal would not work to shift gears?

i seen some fluid by clutch slave cylinder (maybe a line broke ?) if so how would i change it ?
I have a 1995 chevy 1500 - i went to shift gears and i heard a pop and my pedal would not work to shift gears?
Could either be the master cylinder for the clutch or the slave itself, ot the throw out bearing. If it the master cylinder, pretty easy to do. If it's the slave, it's inside the transmission, have to drop it to replace. If you are really lucky, you may have just blown line off the bottom of the reservoir for the fluid.

Do Dealership service centers really do all the work on scheduled maintenance?

I was out having a drink the other night and a guy sitting next to me who was the service manager for a local Honda dealership was talking to a co-worker. He said that when folks bring in their autos for the scheduled service work intervals done at 30 K miles and 60K ($600-$1330 respectively for accords) that the service technicians don't even do 1/3 of the work on the check list. Thinks like lubing CVC joints, flushing transmission etc, usually get signed off, but never done. He chuckled and said there is no way for the customer to know or even prove it. He said they usuallu do the obvious like hook it up to the %26quot;scope%26quot; and change the oil and filters, top off fluids, but that is about it. If it is not broke, they just sign off on the other stuff and you get screwed!



Since they are not actually repairing anything, how do we know? my honda is due for the $1330, any way to avoid getting screwed?
Do Dealership service centers really do all the work on scheduled maintenance?
The first guy gave you the straight poop on this one. The unfortunate thing is that it is accepted practice. Look at all the excuses he makes. Business ethics died a long time ago.

People in the service industry used to take pride in the work they did. Now it's all about the bottom line.

The only way to know for sure your getting what you pay for is to do it yourself, take it to someone you know and trust, stand over the guys shoulder while it gets done. Alas, they won't let customers look on in the service area. Ever wonder why? Now you know.

These are the kind of things that give the service industry a nice big black eye. I've been in it on one form or another for almost 40 years and the only thing I care about is my reputation and my customers. The money will follow. That's what the guy above and many others seem to have forgotten. No, I'll never get rich, but I can turn out a job with pride and when someone asks a customer %26quot;who did that?%26quot; I don't have to be ashamed.
Do Dealership service centers really do all the work on scheduled maintenance?
That guy talking over a drink is an idiot, first to go blabbing about his employer's practices in public he should be fired, next to laugh about it like it's funny when it's not his money being spent on parts and labor.



But it is true, I own a business and simple math tells me there is no way they can do ALL of the maintenance required for what they charge, you are not getting ripped off if the dealer has a good reputation, they will fix and repair what is needed and the rest is left alone, only an unethical dealer will not do at least that much.



It's not illegal but it's also not funny, we all wish this were a perfect world but unfortunately between consumers wanting everything for less and the business having to make ends meet, we compromise towards a mutually best working solution.



Every business does it, bluntly speaking there exists no way a business can operate by the book, if a business doesn't cut corners it goes out of business. It's either that or declare bankruptcy every 7-10 years, both of the options cost money that all of us pay up in the end, so which is it going to be?



What is not right however, is if their brochure or what have you specifically says they will do something, then if they do not do it that is against the rules and I would call them on that! But before you get too hot, I would re-read said brochure carefully and see what exactly it is they say, I would not be half surprised if some of the stuff you think is being done is not actually mentioned but it's worded in such a way that you assume it will be... Now, assumption is not binding, but it does sell.



For this reason you will want to deal only with dealers you trust, and if per chance they skip or forget something that later craps out, you can probably take it back and so long you point this out they should fix it at no charge, assuming you were a patron of their shop at the time.



Have a nice day, sorry for the rant.
That's probably something to think about the next time you go on an airplane trip.
Check around for an independent shop. Get some feed back from on line at local websites. A lot of reputable independent shops want your business. Part of the problem with dealerships is the competitive atmosphere in which the mechanics operate in. Look at some of the answers in %26quot;answers%26quot; and you can feel the conceit of some of the techs. I prefer a group mentality in a shop, where co-workers help each other rather than out do each other. Dealership techs are trying to out do each other,do it quick. You the customer are not on their minds at all.There are a lot of good techs out here who would love to take care of you and your car. Find one. It is time well spent.

Help a useless car lover out boys.?

Well, here is the deal fellas. I am infact a useless car lover. You name a part on the motor, and tell me to fix it, I think you are speaking alien.



Yep, the only thing I know how to do is change the wiper blades, pump in gas, and change the oil.



Here is the main point.. A guy like me, that knows nothing of cars, and lives a meager lifestyle(don't have alot of money to blow). Should I be buying classic cars with power?? - The car I have my heart set on, his the American classic 1996/1997 Chevy Impala SS. You know the big boat with the LT1? I want that beast so bad, and I found one for 8000$ with low mileage. I researched the vehicle and apparently.. this thing was built like cr@p. It breaks down alot, regardless of all the normal tune ups(changing fluids etc. - stop laughing). I don't know if there is any truth to this as it was only a few reviews, and there was 10's of thousands of these built. Anyways.. if this thing is going to break down on me alot, and for the size of the car.. should I even be getting it? I want it bad, but the fact I am so ill-educated on fixing cars and the fact this thing was built like cr@p makes me nervous.



What do you guys think?
Help a useless car lover out boys.?
Yep, I had me one of those. Did you know that they are only about three feet shorter than an aircraft carrier, and burn more fuel than the Exxon Valdez?

seriously, I wouldn't mess with a car I couldn't trust no matter how much I loved it. Get something dependable.
Help a useless car lover out boys.?
PASS, get one that is older and a lot easier to work on!
Those are really nice machines with a big following and great resale value.It is one of the few newer reasonably priced cars that won't depreciate if kept up.I doubt that there will be any serious problems with it,especially with low miles.The LT1 is a great engine too.My opinion for what it's worth is go ahead and get it after investigating the history through Carfax and having a trusted mechanical friend take it for a drive.

Water keeps going empty from the coolant.water drips from the exhaust?

Hello we have just down a full service on my bmw 316i compact sport

r reg, all plugs and filters have been changed new Castrol Edge Sport 0W-40 oil was used for the change,



we have noticed that coolant is empty yet again but was only top up a couple of weeks back and today its gone down another 5 levels since yesterday, the engine is hot alot more than i think it should but i have not actualy time this yet,



when i start the car it seems to lag a bit only on start up it runs fine when driven

can be shankey now and again.



i am thinking towards the head gasket but then there is no leaks anywere all oil and ant freeze and break fluid is spot on



raditor and water pump were changed by preivous owner in feb this year



i dont weather to just get it done gonna cost 拢300 for new head gasket but i dont wont to waste money if there is gonna be more problems but the car is a get drive and looks super lol



on another point the horn and elec mirrors our not working checked the horn no power is going to it any surgestions ?



thank you all for your time to read and help



Kindest Regards,



stephen
Water keeps going empty from the coolant.water drips from the exhaust?
Sounds like a regular coolant leak to me, run the engine from cold and check all coolant pipes, water pump and the radiator for leaks, or leave a newspaper underneath and check later for damp.

If the head gasket has gone you would probably notice either a lack of power (...Deep breath...volumetric efficiency is reduced as the compressed mixture exits the bore via the break in the gasket) or a milky residue on your engine dipstick (as water is getting into the engine block via the break in the gasket)

If the water pump was changed recently it could just be the water filling any air voids, keep a note of how much you've used.

Check for any overheating, up to 90 degrees c should be ok or 3 quarter across the gauge if no numbers, should never enter the red at any stage.

Garage can do a compression test to check head gasket before dismantling engine.

Horn could be anything, start simple..fuse? wire off? the switch?

Water drips from exhaust pretty normal as condensation and sometimes unspent fuel.

Good luck.
Water keeps going empty from the coolant.water drips from the exhaust?
take it some where and have it pressure tested, the water coming out of tail pipe is normal you make 1 gallon of water for each gallon of gas used, if it was head gasket it would blow white smoke out of the tail pipe and it would smell sweet and hang in air like a cloud, you probley have a small leak possible hose or some thing
condensation on warm up can be normal on a lot of cars, as you have Other electrical things not working, check the electric fan is coming on. it can be amazing the cooling effect the air flow when travelling has. check the electric fan is coming on when it should. the thermo switch is worth checking if it douse not come on
If there is a white residue in the engine oil,check oil cap/oil filter then there is water getting into it.Sites below may be of some help.
Check your oil dipstick; if it looks like coffee with creamer in it, You've got a blown head gasket or intake manifold gasket.



Horn- relay is out.



Mirrors-fuse.
put new coolant in check tht the waterpump has no leaks and that there are no holes in the tubes making a lack of air presur
Sick car, get help fast. Don't let it overheat or you will be burying it.
Sounds like the head gasket is leaking. Good luck!
You should first check there is not a vapour lock in the radiator as it has just been renewed ,as well as the water pump ,it looks as though the last owner was having the same trouble and tried to sort it.Check your in car heater unit,that may be leaking, under the carpets is a good place to check for the leak and it will smell of sweet anti freeze in the car.If that is not the fault then it is the head gasket for sure.Check each cylinder pressure to make sure before you tell them to renew the head gasket.
The coolant is getting into your cylinders via a failed cylinder head gasket, being turned to steam, condensing in your exhaust pipe and dripping out. It will need urgent repair.



The leak is internal, so you cant see it from outside. A cylinder head gasket should cost about 拢25 to buy, but If you have it replaced at a garage, it's gonna cost you for labour charges, and that will be 拢200+



One point, I fail to see how your anti freeze can be 'spot on' if your coolant is leaking away... The anti freeze... IS the coolant ?



Find an indipendant BMW specialist, not a main dealer, it will cost less. (failing that, buy a haynes manual, and DIY)

I recently started having a weird sound occur when I press on the breaks of my 2003 Hyundai Sonata. Ideas?

I hear a mixture of weird squeeks and mechanical sounds when I press my break coming to a stop. Sometimes they occur stronger than other times. Sometimes they don't occur. The sound stops when I come to a complete stop, and doesn't continue while the car is idling at a stop. It seems to come from the passenger side of the car near the front from the outside. I haven't heard this sound while accelerating as far as I can tell. I thought maybe it was something scraping against my tire but it doesn't seem to be. I got my state inspection and oil changed last week and the sound only began to occur after it. They did add break fluid though... could this have anything to do with it?
I recently started having a weird sound occur when I press on the breaks of my 2003 Hyundai Sonata. Ideas?
Sounds like time for new pads
I recently started having a weird sound occur when I press on the breaks of my 2003 Hyundai Sonata. Ideas?
Brakes. When brake pads or shoes wear they can make such noises.
wear indicator tabs on the pads.



ps--it is spelled BRAKES.

vc

server

Why do my breaks "seize up" and start smoking? I changed the pads and calipers, but it hasn't fixed the prob.?

I recently have been having trouble with my breaks. My car will be fine, then my car will start slowing down and my breaks will smoke badly. I changed the pads, and calipers, i bled them, but nothing is seeming to work. Are my hoses letting fluid in but not out? when we tried adjusting the new calipers we had to open the bleeder valve just to push them back in......please help!!!!!
Why do my breaks %26quot;seize up%26quot; and start smoking? I changed the pads and calipers, but it hasn't fixed the prob.?
Sounds like the lines are colaapsing inside. It's a fairly common problem on some vehicles. It does exactly like you described. Let's the fluid pass one way only. When changing pads, if you let the calipers hang by the house, you can cause damage inside the hose.
Why do my breaks %26quot;seize up%26quot; and start smoking? I changed the pads and calipers, but it hasn't fixed the prob.?
If it is both sides sticking, I would bet master cylinder..

If it is one side sticking, I would say it is a brake hose on that side that has collapsed..



Another possibility, which was a problem my car had when I bought it, was the brake pedal pushrod that pushes into the master cylinder needed to be adjusted so there wasn't constant pressure pushing on the master cylinder
Your master cylinder is worn/clogged and not allowing the fluid to back off from the calipers.
well there is a block in brake line to control flow of fluid which i bet is plugged up look for place where all lones run togther
replace the rubber brake lines. I would almost bet that is your problem.

Will a leaky brake line connecting to calliper cause rotors to get hot and i mean hot? changed calliper?

Changed calliper, brand new 2nd one. Noticed the first time there was some break fluid leak around where the flex line connects to the hose. I went driving it on a short trip and still heated up, to the point where it started to smoke a little. Like i said, new calliper, set right, took tire off almost burnt my fingers and looked at it fresh. yes, there was leakage of break fluid from the line. would or could that be causing the rotor to heat up?
Will a leaky brake line connecting to calliper cause rotors to get hot and i mean hot? changed calliper?
no leaking brake fluid will not sounds like you have a bad brake hose. the hose has a leak for one thing but it can also have a broken piece of rubber inside acting as a check valve not letting your brakes fully release. i have seen it before and have experienced it before.
Will a leaky brake line connecting to calliper cause rotors to get hot and i mean hot? changed calliper?
if the caliper don,t have enough pressure against it then the pads will just slide on the rotor. but it,s probably a caliper is binding up.
Depending on the weight of the vehicle and the need for brakes (hills etc) brakes can and DO get VERY VERY HOT, especially truck brakes. I have seen brake rotors glowing before, it is not good to get them this hot but just because it was hot enough to burn you is nothing to be concerned about. Most cars brakes will get between 200-350+ degrees in a very short time and in constant stopping traffic stay that way the entire time.

If you are noticing brake fluid around the rotor/ caliper area clean everything with brake parts cleaner and have a helper bear down on the brakes whilst you watch (wheel removed and rotor exposed) the assembly for fluid weeping (or spraying) out. The most likely place for fluid to leak would be the brake lines, possibly caused by hanging the brake caliper by the brake hose/line. You really need to hang it with a wire hanger or anything to keep the tension off the hose. Also the piston itself can leak around the edges and some have bleeder valves which can leak if not securely closed.
change that brake hose and it should cure your problem.

How do i make sure my car won't break down?

i'm going to be doing a ton of driving in my car this coming fall. i've had this car for about 10 years and its getting pretty old. i drive about 40 miles going to and from my commute to college. so in a week i drive about 800 miles just commuting to school. i also am in a long distance relationship and live an hour and a half away from my bf. i plan to drive over to him about once a week and thats about 200 miles a week total. how do i make sure my car can last as long as possible before i have to buy a new one. i make sure i get my oil change once a month. the mechanic checks the cars fluid levels. i put super+ gas in my car and i only go to brand name gas places like mobil. i keep an eye on my breaks when they start getting old. i check the tire pressure. what else can i do to maintain the performance of my car. a good link for car maintenance 101 is helpful too

other info: i have about 200000 miles on my vehicle and live in massachusetts so we have some intense winters and intense summers. weather im sure takes a toll on my car. i love my car i want it to last as long as possible before i have to buy a new one %26lt;3
How do i make sure my car won't break down?
Well, to help save a little money at the pump, unless your vehicle calls for 91+ octane, you don't need it. The higher grades of fuel don't provide any more horsepower or fuel economy, they prevent detonation. Look in your manual to see what grade you need to put in. What you don't want to do is put in a lower grade than you need. So say your car calls for 87 put that in. Some placces in the country have 85, you don't want to be doing that.

Other than that, it sounds like you are doing all you can to prevent something bad happening. Some things you just can't stop though. I would suggest changing your battery, and belts as well, like a previous post said. Also flushing your coolant. You are most likely due for it anyway. Change the fuel filter, and afterward, buy a can of Seafoam, and put that in your tank.
How do i make sure my car won't break down?
It sounds like you are already doing most of the common sense things already. Most people have breakdowns because they ignore warning signs like abnormal noises or things leaking, etc. That being said, any car can break down at any time, unfortunately. Don't sweat it though, I've run a lot of vehicles towards 400,000 miles and I've rarely had a breakdown on the road.
If it were me, I would change the serpentine belt

I would put a new battery in if the old one is at least 4 years old

change the front brake pads

maybe put a new starter and alternator



that way most of the common things that go wrong would be covered.. Sorta like a pre-emptive strike

How hard is it to change bearings in a 2003 Chevy IFS diff?

It feels like something is loose and banging when I hit a bump. Shocks are new, drverside was bad. The cv looks and feels ok, no broken boots. I thought that the Unit bearing had failed but replaced it and problem is still there.I have movement on the drivers side axle flange and some fluid leakage on the diff near the flange. I have seen bearings for sale but not sure if should pull the diff and try to change the bearings. Can't find any diagrams or how to's to look at, don't have time for suprises. Any help would be great.
How hard is it to change bearings in a 2003 Chevy IFS diff?
If you have fluid leaking behind the rear wheels and it is not break fluid , I would say your axle bearing are worn out and the seal is gone , Go ahead and replace both sides , You know you can do it , good luck

Did I meet requirements for safe vehicle.?

16 yr. old Buick Lesabre Limited 125,325 miles.Just got 4 new tires. New front and rear breaks.Oil change filters changed.Wiper blades changed.All fluid levels checked.Anything else I need to do?
Did I meet requirements for safe vehicle.?
make sure your spare tire is properly inflated and not getting dry rot. it can happen after 16 years.
Did I meet requirements for safe vehicle.?
get a newer car.. j/k
Check all lights
the age of the car there may be body rot to the chassis check all stearing joints suspension components seat belts and any thing that moves check saftey devises work properly
emergency brake .make sure it works and releases.also make sore the signals work .4 ways to. no holes in body .and no cracked glass.and seat belts

parent conference night

african american hair

What to fix on my car first?

I have a 99' integra with 85k miles on it. I just got the car and i want to make sure its in good mechanical condition. I have to replace the breaks, shocks, motor mount, transmission cable, as well as get an oil change, radiator flush, and transmission fluid change (with new filter)



I just wanted to know what is the most important thing i should fix first. I want to replace the breaks and shocks asap so i dont damage the rotors, but i was curious about everything else.
What to fix on my car first?
Well , I would start with the brakes then transmission cable , oil change , radiator flush , motor mount ,transmission fluid filter change then shocks
What to fix on my car first?
Your on the right track already. You can start with your brakes first followed by a good engine tune-up. This will not cause any problems whichever comes first. Hope this help!
I would check and make sure that the Timing belt has been done, because it's been 11 years and if it's the original belt I would look into having it replaced ASAP. Because when it breaks there's a very good chance that valves will bend which leads to very expensive internal engine damage. Good luck and hope this helps.
you can take it to an auto shop and do a state inspeciton (which you sorta have to anyway before getting it licensed) and they will do an all around inspecton of the car and tell you whats bad and what could be replaced. radiator flushing usually only required if you see discoloration in your coolan t. transmission change would be a good idea considering the 85k miles on it. as for the other things the state inspection should tell you what you should look out for.

What's a good way to go about learning more about cars, parts, how they work, etc?

Hi, my dad knows a ton about cars, but unfortunately i never knew him so i never got to learn anything from him. He's been in jail since i was a kid, woes me! haha



Anyways, i'm 20 and i know very little about cars. I change my own oil and check antifreeze/trans fluid/break fluid. That's about all i know really. My mom has one of my dads old junk cars, it's an 88' firebird or transam, can't remember which. It doesn't run(did a few years ago) so i thought about maybe just toolin around on it and getting a manual from my local library, but i dunno. I also thought about maybe enrolling in auto-mechanics classes at the community college, but i'm kind of embarrassed too because most guys going into that probably have at least a solid understanding of things where as i know nada.



I'd really like to get a nice classic car when i get older like an old GTO, or Impala, or charger, mustang, etc. But i think it'd be kind of lame to have such a great car like that but not know anything about how they work.



So what do you guys think i should do to learn a little more about cars?

Thanks for any ideas, appreciate your time.
What's a good way to go about learning more about cars, parts, how they work, etc?
The teacher Rita is quite right bec all you really need is the will power and willingness to learn.No one learns better then those that have a very strong desire to learn whatever trade etc they want to learn.

Don't hold back on your dreams bec you only live once and never worry about what other ppl will do or how they'll react to you not knowing much bec anybody can learn and you'd be surprised in just how fast some ppl learn things in life.

I've designed course studies and even helped to teach classes in many different subjects and have found that the best students are the serious , sincere ones.Many times even the so called dump or stupid students are in fact the brightest and smartest students of the class.

Never allow yourself not to explore your dreams and hopes bec it's you that misses out on life that way.



Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way the way I started out learning about cars is hanging out with a mechanic friend at his shop and asking any question that came to my mind , drove him nuts lol but I learned a lot.
What's a good way to go about learning more about cars, parts, how they work, etc?
youtube.com, it answered a lot of my questions. just mess around with whatever your doing.
Justin, my son is 17 and has the same idea. He is taking auto-mechanics this year in high school. You can benefit from the community college classes BECAUSE of the students who know more about car repair. These guys will be the ones that help you the most. And because of your shared interests, you will probably make a lot of new friends. Years ago, my uncle worked for a mechanic neighbor. He apprenticed for free at first just for the opportunity to learn. You are lucky to have the perfect car for a restoration project! (Just stinks that car insurance for guys doesn't go down until age 25 or that your dad couldn't be there to help you restore it.) You sound like a smart young man with some good ideas. Please don't give up and don't underestimate the networking power of the internet. You can type in any automotive issue or question and get some very reliable advice.

How to get out of Reckless Driving Ticket?

I am 18, with a fairly fast car. I had a speeding ticket last year that went on my record, then I got one over Thanksgiving break for speeding 19 over. 2 weeks later (December 3) I was roasting my tires for some friends, and a cop busted me on it. Reckless Driving %26quot;In excess of over 100 ft%26quot; (which it really was less than 100ft)

They poured some brake fluid on my back tires, and I did a heavy power brake and smoked them for another 30 feet or so.



The cops are not too fond of me, I live in a big town/small city.

I've been to defensive driving like 2 years ago. I heard about community service, but really I want to keep it off my insurance



Any ideas for beating the ticket and/or keeping it off insurance?

I'm pretty sure the cop got it on video.



No smart-*** comments like %26quot;Don't do stupid crap%26quot; I can't change what I already did, but I see people getting out of stuff like this all the time because of connections...



I live in Oklahoma if anyone knows Oklahoma laws good
How to get out of Reckless Driving Ticket?
If you live in Oklahoma, just buy yourself a cart and an old, broken down mule to take you where you gotta go.
How to get out of Reckless Driving Ticket?
pay to take a traffic course through the police station and city and that will erase the points after taking the class and paying your fees for the ticket.

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pay to take a traffic course through the police station and city and that will erase the points after taking the class and paying your fees for the ticket.

Report Abuse

You're screwed, can't get out of it now.
Maybe you should just take your lumps and drive safer next time.
you did it now you are stuck
Dude,.. lol,. your liucky you asked not to be bashed, cuz this question begged for it



but,.... since i feel you in some aspects (we were all young and did %26quot;interesting stuff%26quot; at some point) I will try to offfer some advice



Basically,.. the best thing to do is get an attorney,. yes it costs money,.. but it can typically save on the points,.. they can probably just negotiate it down to something minor, and cities are more concerned with the money aspect of tickest rather than the points anyways



I would also recommend going to the scene and taking pictures... you said you did a brake stand? DId you leave some streaks on the ground? Perhaps if you can dispay that it was 30ft or tread, this could help at municple court if you argue it yourself... plus if its on video,... you might be able to show it wasn't 100 feet.



which is an option if you want to save money,... contest the ticket,... go to court,.. dress all spiffy,.. show the evidence,.. be apologetic without confessing to anything,.. and hope your judge is fair and not an asshole



good luck dude



p.s. dude,.. slow down ;)
Pay the fine and grow up before you kill yourself and/or someone else.
I would prefer you keep getting tickets so one day you will grow up and learn to drive responsibly so that your silly need to impress your friends does not kill an innocent man woman or child.
connections? like paying off a judge or finding a dirty cop? you screwed up so deal with it. if you don't like those kinds of answers then maybe you shouldn't post that kind of question on here. maybe you should take yourself down to the police station and see what can be done, wow what a concept.
Look up the Oklahoma law for reckless driving and read it carefully. Laws are made up of certain %26quot;elements%26quot;. The police have to prove each and every element in the law to prove you violated it. For example lets look at the crime of theft (at least here in California). 1. Any person who, 2. takes the personal property of another person, 3. with the intent to deprive that person of that property is guilty of theft. As you see theft has THREE elements (being a person, taking another's property, with intent to deprive). So, if I'm walking down the street and I see a wallet on the ground, I pick it up and walk away am I guilty of theft?



No. (Sure two of the three elements were met, but the third one, the most important, was not INTENT). Because I was simply taking the wallet to the nearest police station to turn it in.



Same scenerio, different though: I'm walking down the street and see a man lay his wallet onto the ground while he is bends down to tie his shoe. I sneak behind him, take the wallet,and walk away. I open the wallet, take the cash, and throw away the wallet. The man runs up and tackles me, detaining me while the police show up. Upon questioning by the police I confess to trying to steal the wallet.



My point is, are you sure the police met all the elements for reckess driving? If they did not, or you can argue reasonable doubt, you may get your ticket dismissed.
I am not trying to be smart but what does burning your tires in front of people actually do for you? If you think they admire you for smoking your tires I think you might be wrong. When you get older you will look back at this age period and think (wow, I was pretty silly). The only thing smoking your tires will do is get you a ticket, have the po po watch you real close, raise your insurance rates, cost u money to replace tires. Now the risks....driving fast or smoking tires puts you at greater risk for losing control and killing/hurting yourself or others. You seem like you want to change or you wouldn't ask this Q on here. Sounds like you have a nice car, prolly nicer than most young men have. Take your car to a local track or certified drag strip. Follow da rules there and safely/legally smoke your tires or the opponent you are matched against. The po po will leave you alone, and you will get the street cred for being good at what you do. Finally you can get your stress out and get the rush of speeding out in a safe place! Have fun!
You aready know what you have to do to correct this situation, in your comments. You have to take your punishment.
this is were your record and reputation come into play. If they have you on tape you are done. Pay it and don't do silly things except in %26quot;safer%26quot; areas. Not on city streets! Not near schools or playgrounds! Go find an old abandon road that no one uses and do dumb stuff with your car there.
get a lawyer and try to drop the ticket to something less

Why does the computer go out in a car?

i'm buying a 95 dodge avenger link http://mcallen.en.craigslist.org/cto/1381586080.html and it has a broken computer meaning it cant turn on supposedly you can buy one for 200$ at auto zone. but then what are the reasons why he is selling it and it needs fluid changes and its been driven for about 134k.
Why does the computer go out in a car?
Stay away!



Something caused the ECU to fail(a short somewhere??) and until this is fixed plugging in a new ecu wil probably just kill the new one.



I
Why does the computer go out in a car?
Dont buy it, just keep on going and dont look back. If there is a problem with the computer, you do not need to be dealing with that headache. PLEASE, do not buy it.
stay clean away from that car. it sounds to me like it,s been through the mill.

Should I change my transmission fluid?

I have a 99 Pontiac Grand Prix GT w/ 103K on it. I took it to a dealer to get the 100k tune up and a transmission flush. The dealer said there was some code and my transmission was bad. He said it needed to be replaced.



The only problem I've had is sometimes (maybe 2 to 3 time a year) the car jerks. usually when I'm trying to move from a complete stop and making a turn (such as at a red light).



I don't have the 3K to get a new tranny. Should I flush the current one and hope it last, or just ride it till it breaks down?
Should I change my transmission fluid?
I'm a mechanic, and if the car goes I would say don't stop. That car is not worth a new transmission, but eventually It will go bad. I would say that your jerking sounds more like a rough idle than a transmission problem, and that's due to again of the injectors, O2 sensors or anything in the ignition, fuel delivery that you haven't replaced. You can's just drop the pan because you wouldn't be getting the fluid out of the converter, and it has a filter. Look for a independent shop and do the service and drive the car to the ground saving for a newer one.
Should I change my transmission fluid?
I would just do it myself.



Take the trans pan off, take the filter off (it looks just like the new one you bought - you did buy one before getting into this, right?) and refill it with transmission fluid.
Take it to another mechanic and have him check the teeth, the gear(s) could be missing some teeth hence the jerking, its usually a LOT cheaper just to get the single gear replaced than the entire transmission.
Yes do the trans service, but not at the dealer, because they are not in your best interest now. Get an oil and filter change (trans oil and filter) change done at a small shop and hope for the best. It can be as simple as a sticky valve which a fluid change may cure, or problems with torque converter lock up. In the meantime buy a CAA/AA membership, so that if it breaks the tow is free. good luck
change the oil first may be look for some additive to condition tarns, may help .its worth a try
id bet that you have the thm 4t60 transmission. replacing the fluid will not rectify any electrical problems that you have and can only compound the hydraulic/clutch issues that you are getting into. did you get a code form the dealer form the computer that tells you what the problem is? ill give you a list of the problems and the definitions of that code.

p0218 transmission fluid over temperature

P0700 transmission control system malfunction

P0701 transmission control system

P0702 transmission control system electrical

P0703 brake switch input malfunction

P0704 clutch switch input circuit malfunction

P0705 transmission range (tr, prndl)

P0706 tr or prndl circuit range performance

P0707 tr or prndl circuit low input

P0708 tr or prndl circuit high input

P0709 transmission ranger sensor intermittent

P0710 transmission fluid temperature circuit

P0711 transmission fluid temperature range performance

P0712 transmission fluid temperature low input

P0713 transmission fluid temperature high input

P0714 transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit intermittent

P0715 input or turbine speed circuit malfunction

P0716 input or turbine speed range performance

P0717 input or turbine speed no signal

P0718 input/turbine speed sensor circuit intermittent

P0719 brake switch circuit low input

P0720 output speed circuit malfunction

P0721 output speed range performance

P0722 output speed no signal

P0725 engine speed circuit malfunction

P0726 engine speed range performance

P0727 engine speed no signal

P0728 engine speed input circuit intermittent

P0730 incorrect gear ratio

P0731 incorrect first gear ratio

P0732 incorrect second gear ratio

P0733 incorrect third gear ratio

P0734 incorrect fourth gear ratio

P0735 incorrect fifth gear ratio

P0736 incorrect reverse gear ratio

P0740 torque converter clutch circuit malfunction

P0741 torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off

P0742 torque converter clutch stuck on

P0743 torque converter clutch electrical

P0744 torque converter clutch circuit intermittent

P0745 pressure control solenoid malfunction

Po746 pressure control solenoid stuck off

P0747 pressure control solenoid stuck on

P0748 pressure control solenoid “a” malfunction

P0749 pressure control solenoid intermittent

P0750 shift solenoid “a” malfunction

P0751 shift solenoid “a” performance or stuck off

P0752 shift solenoid “a” stuck on

P0753 shift solenoid “a” electrical

P0754 shift solenoid “a” intermittent

P0755 shift solenoid “b” malfunction

P0756 shift solenoid “b” performance or stuck off

P0757 shift solenoid “b” stuck on

P0758 shift solenoid “b” electrical

P0759 shift solenoid “b” intermittent

P0760 shift solenoid “c” malfunction

P0761 shift solenoid “c” performance or stuck off

P0762 shift solenoid “c” stuck on

P0763 shift solenoid “c” electrical

P0764 shift solenoid “c” intermittent

P0765 shift solenoid “d” malfunction

P0766 shift solenoid “d” performance or stuck off

P0767 shift solenoid “d” stuck on

P0768 shift solenoid “d” electrical

P0769 shift solenoid “d” intermittent

P0770 shift solenoid “e” malfunction

P0771 shift solenoid “e” performance or stuck off

P0772 shift solenoid “e” stuck on

P0773 shift solenoid “e” electrical

P0774 shift solenoid “e” intermittent

P0778 pressure control solenoid b electrical

P0780 shift malfunction

P0781 1-2 shift malfunction

P0782 2-3 shift malfunction

P0783 3-4 shift malfunction

P0784 4-5 shift malfunction

P0785 shift/timing solenoid malfunction/2-3 solenoid circuit electrical

P0786 shift/timing solenoid range/performance

P0787 shift timing solenoid low

P0788 shift timing solenoid high

P0789 shift timing intermittent

P0790 normal/performance switch circuit malfunction

P0801 Reverse inhibit control circuit malfunction

P0803 1-4 upshift (skip shift) solenoid

P0804 1-4 upshift lamp control circuit malfunction

P0850 neutral switch input circuit low

P0851 neutral switch input circuit high

P0856 powertrain indicated traction control malfunction

P0864 tcm communication circuit range performance

P0865 tcm communication low

P0866 tcm communication circuit high
DON'T GET IT FLUSHED!, or you will be replacing that tranny, just drop the tranny oil pan and change the filter and bolt back together and replace the fluid lost, ( 5 or 6 qts. ).

parameter order

laptop peak replacement

Trying to get over my ex?it's been 2 years since break up?

it's bad, I picture her face the first day we made eye contact, the way she looked at me and everything leading up to getting together, I have dreams that I'm with her again and somehow somewhere something went wrong, she just changed and I'd do anything to live those days again and I wonder what we could've been if she hadn't, how could people go from being madly in love to not, I tried dating other girls but it wasn't the same and haven't dated for a while now, i find it odd that it's what I think about everyday



Don't ever ******* question that [6x]



Enough to hold you to the brightest of lights,

to place you dangerously close to that sun,

enough to acknowledge the flaws you can't ignore

and recognize the cause of what's done is done,

more than enough to put my name behind my ideals,

and neglect my logic twice daily.

enough to keep me looking for my lucy in the sky with gems,

when I remember how you used to call me baby,

enough to look in my mirror with detest for every tear you shed regardless of

why you wept,

enough to curse any man who can't appreciate the depth of the ocean i swam

till i ran out of breath.



I love you, don't ever ******* question that,

that's why we'll probably never get along.

if I was better at finding the right words to say, I wouldn't need to write

these mother ******* songs.



I love you, I love you [faded]

never, don't ever ******* question that, don't ever ******* question that.

riding the public transit,

I study the blank stares to answer my questions of how and why I got so many

grey hairs. I take care of the nervous that runs through my extension cord,

and I reflect on that reoccurring dream where we met the Lord.

single file lines, to give her a pound one at a time but when i faced her-

I attempted to embrace her, she looked so fine,

I awoke from my sleep before her bodyguard had a chance to beat me to

submission and I still walk with my religion.

I watched the children scurry in circles around a two-way mirror,

worrying about which side of the glass projects the reflection clearer.

hear the whispers of the wind trying to get me to grin,

gassing' me up about the love that I plucked and I've been stuck within,

for every eclipse that stares at me from the other side of a paper cup of

espresso-

I light a match beneath a kettle,

and for ever set of lips that become attached and equipped with that program

to seek success, i bleed my ethics out a slow drip.

I used to know a man who met a woman, dont remember where,

big beautiful eyes and light brown hair,

she was from the burbs, he was from the south side of the city,

this was back when Franklin avenue was still pretty.

two different worlds apart, but the world is just a small town-

we all know how people like to get down.

here we go, aquarius, pisces,

feel the flow of the fluid as I swim through it to free my soul.

bush shoved the cane without the glove numbed the pain.

the magic from up above what it does for the brain,



make the love, paint the picture, write the song, the player met a virgin

made a virgo named him sean.

make the love, paint the picture, write the song, the player met a virgin

made a virgo named him sean.

make the love, paint the picture and write that song till the break of dawn.



I love you- don't ever ******* question that, that's why we'll probably never

get along. if I was better at finding the right words to say, I wouldn't need

to write these mother-******* songs.(2X)

I love you (make the love, paint the picture, and write that song [in faded background]).

I love you.. I love you..


Trying to get over my ex?it's been 2 years since break up?
Dam, i was into a situation like that once and i thought i had it bad.



Don't worry about it any more, it's actually pretty easy to take care of once u know what to do.



Try self hypnossis or some sort of thing to get her out of your head.



It's just become a habbitual way of thinking over time.



Mabye go to a psychologist or something like, they have all kinds of techniques to help out with stuff like that.



Good luck bro,



Thanks for answering my question by the way :)

Concerning making a 1575 massey ferguson backhoe have more break out force?

it appears to be the size of the lift cylinder that would create more breakout force of the backhoe I was hoping to be able to increase the breakout force without having to change them but the 1575 backhoe has 2.5 inch by 16.75 cylinders the 1580 has 3.0 by 16.75 inch cylinders and has almost a thousand pds more break out force I hate to replace them since the back hoe is new but I guess that is cheaper than buying another one unless someone knows of another way but increasing the pressure with a bigger pump I was told wouldnt help because the cylinder has to have more size and volume to hold more fluid im still open to suggestions
Concerning making a 1575 massey ferguson backhoe have more break out force?
yeah i think the only way to do that is to change the cylinder, the bigger cylinder is stronger so it can take the pressure. youll end up blowing the seals on the original ones if you put to much pressure on them with a biger pump.
Concerning making a 1575 massey ferguson backhoe have more break out force?
it's a combination..You need increased PSI from the pump, and the bigger diameter cylinder for the lift to increase safely, I have seen some people change the relief valve on the pump to slightly increase the lift..if the pump has enough cfm reserve.
when you start increasing breakout force by simply changing the cylinder or pump configuration you'll start breaking other things...or bending them. The machines are usually designed to not tear themselves apart. Changing factory specs is a good way to buy yourself more repairs. By increasing the breakout force by changing the cylinder you'll find yourself tearing the bucket apart, wrecking the pins, bending the boom or stick, or even bending or blowing the seals out on the other cylinders on the backhoe, since they're designed for the lesser force from the bucket cylinder.

I have a breaking problem with one of my W124 300E. The ABS light comes on as car gets warm and the pedal?

Pulsates then seems to operate normally although ABS light remains on untill you turn off %26amp; on again. It would appear that the fluid has not been changed since 2003 120k KLM ago. The pad,s are OK but do not know about the rotors. I had a similar issue with a W126 a few years back but changed the car before it was resolved. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I have a breaking problem with one of my W124 300E. The ABS light comes on as car gets warm and the pedal?
suspect the right or left wheel speed sensors you may wish to replace both as w 124's are getting long in the tooth. they can be tested with a multi-meter [if you are savy with one] resistance is about 1k ohms and should be capible of putting out more than 3 volts A/C at 15-20 mph wheel rotation speed [brisk hand spinning of tire]

without any dropouts while flexing the wires.

be careful jacking and blocking as you can be dead only once.

note because car has no symptom until warm it will not be of much use to test it cold [drive it until the symptom occurs then test]
I have a breaking problem with one of my W124 300E. The ABS light comes on as car gets warm and the pedal?
Please re-word this question; In its current form, it doesn't make much sense. Why don't you change your brake fluid?

What are the risks of changing the transmission?

My car's transmission just gave up a week ago. The transmission fluid was burnt and the car acted as if on neutral when put in drive or 1 or 2. My mechanic told me that it can not be fixed and that I have to put in a new one. Since i cant afford a brand new one I have to put in a used transmission and he said it comes with a 6 month warranty. My vehicle is a 96 Mazda Protege with 123600 on it. Are there any risks involving it? What caused the last transmission to break down? Will this new one break down too? Will installing a bew tran cause any other part to break down? Should i spend the 500+labour, installing this in or wait till my next 4-5 paychecks to buy another vehicle? Please help...
What are the risks of changing the transmission?
The vehicle is almost 14 years old so I would have to base my opinion on whether or not to put another transmission in it on the overall condition of the rest of the vehicle.

If the rest of the vehicle is in excellent shape, I'd probably spring for another transmission. It's certainly less expensive than starting up another car payment.
What are the risks of changing the transmission?
Using a USED tranny is always very risky. It can last 6 years or 6 months + 1 day. You JUST don't know.



Getting a rebuilt tranny is MUCH better idea. As if done by good mechanic, they can last almost as long as a new tranny.



===

Installing a new tranny on an old car, that is a waste as your other parts (the whole car) will not last that long anyway.



Good Luck...

What do I need to do for routine bike maintenance?

I bought a 2005 Yamaha R6 a month ago, and I was just wondering what I need to do for routine maintenance. How often do I:

-change the oil

-lube the chain

-bleed the brakes



Also, how do I lube the chain and bleed the breaks? Where can I get replacement brake fluid and chain lube?



Is there anything else I need to do for routine maintenance? Thanks a lot it's much appreciated.
What do I need to do for routine bike maintenance?
oil=every 3000 miles

chain=every 1000 miles +or- depending on conditions

brake bleeding is not necessary unless the brakes feel like they are working improperly. If you need to do it routinely bleed and replace the lines once a year.

other maintenance, air filter every 3rd oil change, tire pressure routinely, cable lubrication at oil change interval, clutch and throttle adjustments when needed.

Fork oil and seals replace when needed or leaking.

top 10 myspace

girl myspace

Transmission filter was hard to take off. Hope I didn't break anything?

I have my wifes pontiac vibe up in the air right now. I drained all the fluid from my transmission pan and took my filter off It was kind of hard to take off I had to apply pressure to it and I moved it in numerous directions, It finally poppped off. I can't see any damage on the wires or the cylnaoids(I think thats what they are) Is it always hard to take off a tranny filter or did I break something. I only drained the pan, Is their more to it. Do i have to drain the transfer case as well to get a complete flush? The fluid was really bad kind of a deep purple. Will I be mixing good fluid with bad fluid if I dont drain the transfer case? Or did I already drain everything from the pan and I should bolt the new filter back on, replace the gasket, and assemble everything back together again. I'm just gonna leave my car up in the air in my garage til I'm 100% sure that I changed all my oil
Transmission filter was hard to take off. Hope I didn't break anything?
if the old filter looks like the new filter without missing parts(ie o-ring seal) then you should be okay.



Besides not much you can do anyway until you put it back together and drive it.
Transmission filter was hard to take off. Hope I didn't break anything?
Filter should not be hard to remove. but if you have it off and the new one installed I assume all is OK. However to drain all the oil you have to drain the oil in the torque converter as well, but this is usually not done at home as it requires pressure flushing equipment.
auto transmission servicing and repair is a specialist job, if you don't have the experience leave well alone

Service a 125cc bike!!!?

I have a 125cc bike and i serviced it as in change engine oil, new spark pulg and topped up break fluid, coolent and 2stroke oil.

is there anything else i can do it help her run and proform better???

I already have a bigger sprocket on the back for better acceloration and an arrow exhaust what else would increase its proformance???

Thanks
Service a 125cc bike!!!?
...dont forget to grease the chaine with propper grease/wax,and check wheel bearings....as for extra performance let us know what type of bike it is...
Service a 125cc bike!!!?
Have it bored to the next larger piston size.

Is it my waters/amniotic fluid ???? please help !!!!?

im 34 weeks pregnant...



today in work i went to the toilet and noticed my pants were rather wet - and even part of my trousers below were abit damp like it went thru to them aswell



now i dont feel like im leaking, and its not coming out like dripping or anything when i stand up - like you cant c it coming out of me



but thorughout the day obviously it somehow has got rather wet - not like discharge, like water u know...



could it be my amniotic fluid? it doesnt smell like urine as i heard that some women leak urine without noticing



???



but im not having regular contractions or anything ...



answers greatly appreciated !



ive changed my pants and am going ot leave these on for abit and check if these get wet to see if its still happening..



also also do you hav to have dialated for your waters to break ?
Is it my waters/amniotic fluid ???? please help !!!!?
I'm 40 weeks, and two days I thought I was leaking fluid. It was NOT constant, but it would come in spurts throughout the day. I called the hospital, and they said the only way to tell was for me to come in. I went in, and they swabbed my vagina, and shortly I got the results back, which were negative. But if you have any reason to believe you are leaking, you need to go in right away!
Is it my waters/amniotic fluid ???? please help !!!!?
No, you don't need to be dilated for waters to leak - keep an eye on it. If you still leak tomorrow, perhaps give your midwife a call - just for safetys sake. 99:1 its nothing to worry about though.
go see a doctor !

it could be your amniotic fluid its normal around your stage of pregnancy

i had it with my son .only the doc can see if you'v dialated
It could be your amniotic fluid.



Since you are only 34 weeks along, this calls for an immediate visit to your physcian.



All the best.
are you sure its not just urine? if you are i would contact my midwife so you can be checked over to be sure
No, i wasnt dilited when my water broke, and if your pants are rather wet, it might be that, you need to contact you doctor to let them know what you think, if it is your water, they need to get that baby out before there is an infection. DONT WORRY, you are far enough along where your baby will be safe, and if it doesnt smell like urine, then it could be your water breaking. Please dont panik but call your doctor and go from there. Good luck hun!
GET TO HOSPITAL!!!



the doctors will be able to keep a closer eye on you if your waters have gone but also they will be able to tell you for sure if they have..

you will need to go to hospital as there is a risk of infection to the baby..



i hope that this isnt whats happend but it sounds like it has.. good luck hun...
get to the e.r. now!
I suggest you visit your Doctor or contact the hospital which would be more adviseable. If you are leaking amniotic fluid you need to be checked or you could have a dry birth.

Amniotic fluid is not clear fluid it is cloudy.

My water broke and although my baby's head was engaged I had no labour pains. I still went to the hospital, they induced me and my son was born safely later that day.

Please promise to go regardless of what we suggest you do.



Best Wishes.



UK based Mum
you can leak your waters/amniotic fluid and not have had your waters broken properly, or be in labour at all with no contractions,

all you need to do is inform your midwife as they will want to monitor your water levels around the baby and you for infection, they may decide to induce you in a few weeks or just leave you till your waters break properly. my sister in law has just had this happen to her! shes been leaking since 33w5d and her waters have just broke today!
It is very possible that it is amniotic fluid. Occasionally the bag of waters tears at the top of the uterus rather than the bottom, so instead of a gush of fluid, there is more of a trickle. The only way to know for sure whether it is or not is to visit your doctor or midwife and have them check you. It is important to do this soon, because if your water has broken, there is an increased chance of infection and/or bacteria to get to your baby now that this protective bag is ruptured. Don't panic, though. Doctors don't start being concerned about risk to baby until about 48 hours after the water breaks like this. And, yes, it can happen without any contractions or dilation.

My bikes front disc break doesn't work as well as it should?

I have Avid Juicy 5s Disc breaks on my Mountain Bike, and the front brake just isnt fulfilling its potential, I've compared them to Juicy 7s on another bike which seem worlds ahead, more so than any two pairs of hydraulic breaks should ever be in my opinion. and I'm getting to the point that I'm not sure if the calliper is working properly.



The difference in performance which i have noted is that the front break on my bike doesn't lock at all, no matter how hard you pull the leaver (which doesn't even nearly bottom out on the bars) comparatively the other bikes brakes will lock instantly and the bike easily pulls and endo, so much so that you can throw your self off it if you so wished, with just the front brake.



I've spent hours bleeding them several times, I bled them twice, and no change so then I emptied the system and took the lever apart and cleaned the seal on the reservoir, and refilled the system, and then bled it afterwards to be completely sure, the lever is so tight now that its clearly got less air in it than the back break which works fine. And made me think that i have wasted my time all together bleeding the brakes because they work ever so slightly better now, and afterwards I cleaned the disc and pads with methylated spirits, and rode round for 10 minutes trying to pull an endo, to no avail.



Instead of locking on the disc as I expect it to the disc slides through the pads at a very slow rate, quickly stopping the bike, but as i am only travelling slowly on flat, obviously this is a useless comparison to when I'm landing on downhill stretches at 30mph, thinking crap that's a tight berm. In which case i will need the brakes to work properly for safety if nothing else.



One thing i have noticed when i looked at the back brake pads is that the caliper on the back brake has left a large clean shiny copper ring around the pad back, however this isn't present on the front pads which is making me wonder if the piston is working properly for it to let the rust show on the pad. Obviously this could be a matter of coincidence as I am learning on the job with this, so i'm relay asking does anyone have experience with disc brakes that don't grip the disc properly.



Another gem of information ive forgottern, the bike was bought about 4 months ago, but it was new but 2 years old if that makes sence, its a 2008 model but was never sold on the original sales line, and then i got it half price earlier this year because they couldn't shift them. There are no obvious flaws with the bike other than alot of the fluid-mechanical systems do seem to be failing i assume this is because the seals have decayed. The forks went back last month because they lost about 80% of their travel. I can well believe the bike needs a new brake caliper, but i dont want to take it back to the shop again because they take ages to fix things.



Any ideas on what's wrong with my brakes.
My bikes front disc break doesn't work as well as it should?
I would put on brand new pads first to see if some oil got on the original pads cleaning them probably isn't adequate for proper bite (or just switch front and rear pads so you don't have to spend any money). If still no change then I would squeeze the lever without a wheel/rotor in it and see if the piston moves, if not then I would say time to upgrade...
My bikes front disc break doesn't work as well as it should?
I would guess that your problem stems from contamination on the front pads. Most hydraulic disc systems recommend using only alcohol to clean the pad surfaces, never any petroleum based product because they will leave residue in the pad material and render the pads useless.



You could try switching the front and rear pads if you know the rear are okay. If they fix your problem on the front you'll know the old ones were the problem and can install new. Be sure to clean the disc itself with alcohol before you make the switch because if those front pads are contaminated some of it will be on the disc and you don't want to transfer it to the rear pads too..



Be careful if you apply those brakes without either the pads or a spacer in place as you can force the caliper piston completely out of its bore creating even more problems. Your bike should have come with a couple of the spacers which are nothing more than a small piece of plastic about the same thickness as the pads themselves.



One other point as far the bleeding of hydraulics go... as on a vehicle, if there's a need to bleed the brakes regularly then there's a leak somewhere in the hydraulic system. Under normal conditions the pad wear is compensated for by adjusting the lever throw and bleeding should not be necessary unless the system is opened for repair. If you're having to bleed them at all something is wrong.