The hospital said that my membrane ruptured. I was in the hospital for 4 days. In that time my amniotic fluid levels went from (12 is normal) 10, to 4, to none, then to 7.5 on my last ultrasound. The first hospital suggested that I have my labor induced, (my cervix is still closed) I refused. Because my baby's heartbeat is very strong and my fluid levels is always changing. So I was sent to a bigger hospital. Where I was given antibiotics, and IV fluids. The doctor's sent me home yesterday with a prescription for antibiotics, and told me that I needed to be on bed rest and try to make it 4 weeks without an infection and going into early labor. If I can make it that long I will then be admitted into the hospital at 24 weeks and given steroids for the baby's lungs. I will have to be in the hospital for the rest of my pregnancy, they said I could deliver at 24 weeks and the baby might survive but they will try to prevent delivery until 34 weeks, depending on if I get an infection but the baby has to be born at 34 weeks.
I am really scared I will wake up and the baby will have been born without me know it. Is that possible?
Has anyone had an early water break like this? What was the outcome? I am so scared. But I still have hope.
I am really scared, 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
the second hospital is right in line with what we do @ the texas medical center. i had 1 pt. who's water broke @ 16 wks., she was hospitalized, put on mag. sulfate (i.v. med that relaxes muscles--your uterus) they may choose another med., but terbutaline then mag. is the protocol, along w/ a steroid to accelerate your baby's lung maturity, a regular i.v. to keep you hydrated and many other things such as serial u/s's, antibiotics (b/c risk of infection to baby %26amp; yourself), very limited cervical exams %26amp; monitoring of the baby as well as uterine activity. the pt. i had, was the earliest i had seen that had broke her water and had a successful outcome. She %26quot;sealed over%26quot;, which is possible if the leak was a small one--basically the amniotic sac healed itself and covered a pin-point hole. she left the hosp. @ 36wks. and had to be induced 2 weeks later! she brought a perfect 2-1/2 yr. old to see me later. this is a story of success and though it does not always turn out this way--this is what i want you to think about and meditate on. picture the leak as being closed, and you holding your baby at term. no negative thoughts--period! stay in bed, no sex, no holding or lifting other kids or anything heavy. while in bed, read the book %26quot;The Secret%26quot;, it will change your life and it works! i'm glad you did not have you labor induced. good luck, i'll be sending out positive thoughts for yourself and your baby.
I am really scared, 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
trust me you will feel when your baby is coming out. it hurts really bad. my water broke at 35 1/2 weeks. drink plenty of water because that helps your fluid level.
Wow thats a really scary thing to go through.
My friend actually went through this exact same thing. She had her baby at 22 weeks and he's doing just great. He was born at 1 1/2 Lbs.
He's now up to 5 Lbs and 8 ounces.
She finally gets to take him home next week.
I dont think you will sleep through the birth of your baby though.
You will feel the contractions and you will feel loads of pain if the baby were to come while you slept.
I wish you the best of luck sweetie as this is going to be a really tough Journey for the next couple of months.
Did the doctor say why your membranes ruptured in the first place?
Hope all goes well %26lt;3
My daughters birth mothers water broke at 26wks, and my little girl was born at 28 1/2 weeks. They kept her in the hospital the whole time, and my little girl was 2lbs 10oz, but they said it was because of the mothers drug/alcohol use. If you can hold out until 26 weeks, I say you should be ok. I'm so sorry this is happening to you.
Wednesday 26 October 2011
4 car questions .. 91 civic?
1st thing is I went to change my break light and can't get the bulb in. It's definately the right bulb (2057), the one you push in and turn so the little knobs get in place. for some reason i cant get the bulb to turn and can't see anything blocking it from turning!! there was rust from the old bulb, but it all pretty much fell out.
2nd is my hood won't open. I went to check my oil and it won't pop from the inside, it was fine 4 days ago. IS this a hard thing to fix? Im guessing the wiring messed up somehow... which it may sound stupid but could I have done something to the hood while messing and pulling on the back brake wires? (just cause it seems to have happened at the same time)
3.. is there anything i can do myself to get my windshield washer fluid to squirt on my front windows, the back fluid comes out just fine, but i can't get the front going.
4. I always thought I need my reserve coolant tank at max when my car engine is cold. Is it okay if its not? what could happen?
4 car questions .. 91 civic?
The auto parts store is a wealth of information.
How long are planing to keep it. Do the door hinges sage see if the door pushes up when you close it. The last miles of a car are very expensive dollars per miles You got to look real close. Its a trusted friend and hard to part with. Find a new mechanic. Angel list may have listed for your area try to Google it.
1 Replace the light socket you maybe able to buy the medal insert with 1 wire witch is the hot
2Play with the cable pull it open push it closed try pushing down on the hood.
3There are 2 tanks for the washer Don't run the front one you will burn out the motor with no fluid. There is a one way value that may need to be replaced or put in so the the motor doesn't work so hard. A local auto parts store sells tubing and after 17 years needs replacement
4The engine should be hot when you fill it to max or it could over flow in the street It tastes sweet to animals and will kill them
4 car questions .. 91 civic?
Get a friend to replace the bulb for you, a little hand technique may do the job if you are using the correct bulb. The hood cable return spring may have come off. Try pushing the cable handle to check if you can open the hood, if not you will need your neighborhood mechanic to check it. The windshield washer line can get clogged with dirt or foreign material, check the jets if OK, use a pin to clear blockages. Look at the lines, it may have loosened to push it tight to its plastic linkage. If your coolant level is below the %26quot;LOW%26quot; level, time to top up. However if you are below %26quot;FULL%26quot;, you should be alright. Lack of coolant can make your car overheat and can be expensive so check the level all the time.
about the bulb! the socket is probably corroded. what you probably have to do is clean the socket, put some wd-40 in the socket and see if it loosens it up. about the hood! maybe the hood release is broke. get under the front of the car, take a long screwdriver and reach up to the hood latch and see if you can pop the hood. number 3. take a small, tiny piece of wire and clean out the squirter. if your talking about the resovoir for the coolant then when it,s cold fill it between the add and full mark and when it gets hot it will show full.
2nd is my hood won't open. I went to check my oil and it won't pop from the inside, it was fine 4 days ago. IS this a hard thing to fix? Im guessing the wiring messed up somehow... which it may sound stupid but could I have done something to the hood while messing and pulling on the back brake wires? (just cause it seems to have happened at the same time)
3.. is there anything i can do myself to get my windshield washer fluid to squirt on my front windows, the back fluid comes out just fine, but i can't get the front going.
4. I always thought I need my reserve coolant tank at max when my car engine is cold. Is it okay if its not? what could happen?
4 car questions .. 91 civic?
The auto parts store is a wealth of information.
How long are planing to keep it. Do the door hinges sage see if the door pushes up when you close it. The last miles of a car are very expensive dollars per miles You got to look real close. Its a trusted friend and hard to part with. Find a new mechanic. Angel list may have listed for your area try to Google it.
1 Replace the light socket you maybe able to buy the medal insert with 1 wire witch is the hot
2Play with the cable pull it open push it closed try pushing down on the hood.
3There are 2 tanks for the washer Don't run the front one you will burn out the motor with no fluid. There is a one way value that may need to be replaced or put in so the the motor doesn't work so hard. A local auto parts store sells tubing and after 17 years needs replacement
4The engine should be hot when you fill it to max or it could over flow in the street It tastes sweet to animals and will kill them
4 car questions .. 91 civic?
Get a friend to replace the bulb for you, a little hand technique may do the job if you are using the correct bulb. The hood cable return spring may have come off. Try pushing the cable handle to check if you can open the hood, if not you will need your neighborhood mechanic to check it. The windshield washer line can get clogged with dirt or foreign material, check the jets if OK, use a pin to clear blockages. Look at the lines, it may have loosened to push it tight to its plastic linkage. If your coolant level is below the %26quot;LOW%26quot; level, time to top up. However if you are below %26quot;FULL%26quot;, you should be alright. Lack of coolant can make your car overheat and can be expensive so check the level all the time.
about the bulb! the socket is probably corroded. what you probably have to do is clean the socket, put some wd-40 in the socket and see if it loosens it up. about the hood! maybe the hood release is broke. get under the front of the car, take a long screwdriver and reach up to the hood latch and see if you can pop the hood. number 3. take a small, tiny piece of wire and clean out the squirter. if your talking about the resovoir for the coolant then when it,s cold fill it between the add and full mark and when it gets hot it will show full.
I am 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
The hospital said that my membrane ruptured. I was in the hospital for 4 days. In that time my amniotic fluid levels went from (12 is normal) 10, to 4, to none, then to 7.5 on my last ultrasound. The first hospital suggested that I have my labor induced, (my cervix is still closed) I refused. Because my baby's heartbeat is very strong and my fluid levels is always changing. So I was sent to a bigger hospital. Where I was given antibiotics, and IV fluids. The doctor's sent me home yesterday with a prescription for antibiotics, and told me that I needed to be on bed rest and try to make it 4 weeks without an infection and going into early labor. If I can make it that long I will then be admitted into the hospital at 24 weeks and given steroids for the baby's lungs. I will have to be in the hospital for the rest of my pregnancy, they said I could deliver at 24 weeks and the baby might survive but they will try to prevent delivery until 34 weeks, depending on if I get an infection but the baby has to be born at 34 weeks.
I am really scared I will wake up and the baby will have been born without me know it. Is that possible?
Has anyone had an early water break like this? What was the outcome? I am so scared. But I still have hope.
I am 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
my water broke at 13 weeks and made it to 20 weeks before i went into labor. Unfortunately my son didn't make it. Since you are much farther along than i was i think if you stick with the bed rest and do everything the dr said you have a good chance of making it to the 24 weeks. Its very difficult. they suggested that i be induced as well but refused. there have been cases where the rip seals itself. my fluid level never went back up, so that may be a very good sign for you. I am currently 14 weeks pregnant again and i am scared to death it will happen again. Please take it easy and don't to anything and drink lots of fluids. Im praying for you and your baby. I would love for your outcome to be positive! If you ever need to talk you can message me anytime. I learned alot and may be able to help you more. God Bless, Jennifer
I am 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
One thing is for sure, you will not have a baby without knowing it. Even women who have a miscarriage will have SEVERE cramping.
You're best bet is to do everything the hospital tells you, take it easy, and pray.
Best of luck.
I am really scared I will wake up and the baby will have been born without me know it. Is that possible?
Has anyone had an early water break like this? What was the outcome? I am so scared. But I still have hope.
I am 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
my water broke at 13 weeks and made it to 20 weeks before i went into labor. Unfortunately my son didn't make it. Since you are much farther along than i was i think if you stick with the bed rest and do everything the dr said you have a good chance of making it to the 24 weeks. Its very difficult. they suggested that i be induced as well but refused. there have been cases where the rip seals itself. my fluid level never went back up, so that may be a very good sign for you. I am currently 14 weeks pregnant again and i am scared to death it will happen again. Please take it easy and don't to anything and drink lots of fluids. Im praying for you and your baby. I would love for your outcome to be positive! If you ever need to talk you can message me anytime. I learned alot and may be able to help you more. God Bless, Jennifer
I am 20 weeks pregnant and my water broke?
One thing is for sure, you will not have a baby without knowing it. Even women who have a miscarriage will have SEVERE cramping.
You're best bet is to do everything the hospital tells you, take it easy, and pray.
Best of luck.
Problem working the steering wheel in my car when i want to turn!!?
I have a 98 dodge stratus. Its been running really well as of late, but last week, the wheel started putting up resistance when I try to turn. Its only when I'm pulling into or out of parking spots, or try to turn with my foot on the break...I just got my oil changed a little while ago and they said all my fluids were good...is this going to be pricey to fix?
Problem working the steering wheel in my car when i want to turn!!?
Check power steering Genius
Problem working the steering wheel in my car when i want to turn!!?
Sounds as if you are having one of two problems. First check the belt. If the problem is at low RPMs it could be slipping. Or you could have a rack and pinion that is going bad on you.
sounds like the steering pump is low or the belt is slipping. those places will tell you anything. some of those places don,t know a power steering from a radio.
Problem working the steering wheel in my car when i want to turn!!?
Check power steering Genius
Problem working the steering wheel in my car when i want to turn!!?
Sounds as if you are having one of two problems. First check the belt. If the problem is at low RPMs it could be slipping. Or you could have a rack and pinion that is going bad on you.
sounds like the steering pump is low or the belt is slipping. those places will tell you anything. some of those places don,t know a power steering from a radio.
1991 Olds Cutlass Calais, 163,000 Miles A.T., -No Reverse,- Rides PERFECT Forward.. Please Evaluate Advice?
... This is an answer i got to my Question, because im timid and my engine looks VERY Pretty and Prefect (like new, with normal age dirt) but still, I dont want to touch ANYTHING, i only topped off my Engine Oil and Antifreeze, and was careful when i did, my engine is CLEAN and runs NEW:
your tranny fluid obviously hasn't been checked in a long time.
hold the tube with one hand while pulling the dipstick with the other. a little effort and twisting may be required but i doubt you will break it.
i checked your other questions to find out what kind of car you are talking about .http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;鈥?/a> and i will answer it here because you were misinformed.
if you change your fluid and filter reverse will work again.
i have done this for many people who were told their tranny was shot.
Source(s):
24Yrs Mechanic
==
----- Now this is the answer i posted to THAT:
It will take a LOOOONG Time before i get up enough courage to change the Fluid and Filter (I am scared to DEATH of a %26quot;No Pull.%26quot;) Can you tell me how to do it right? (And what NOT to do? -- DO NOT FLUSH, Correct? THANKS!)
.. I am going to (for now) Keep driving the car with NO REVERSE%26lt; just putting it in Neutral and pushing it backward when i have to, also pulling through spots. But can anyone tell me a YES or NO?
1991 Olds Cutlass Calais, 163,000 Miles A.T., -No Reverse,- Rides PERFECT Forward.. Please Evaluate Advice?
Your question indicates that you do not know much about maintaining a car. If you do not change your oil and filter on a regular basis the engine will eventually build up sludge in the engine pan. When this happens the oil passages will start to plug up, leading to engine failure. Same sort of thing with the radiator fluid. It must be changed on a regular basis because it loses its ability to protect from rust over time. When this happens the radiator will start to corrode and plug up and would need replacement. Same with the transmission. It has a filter in it that must be changed according to the schedule in your car manual's maintenance schedule. The fluid and filter should be changed together normally. Failure to do so will eventually result in the transmission completely malfunctioning. Is that what you really want? If you are not capable of doing the work, or afraid to try it, then take it to a competent transmission place or your car dealer.
1991 Olds Cutlass Calais, 163,000 Miles A.T., -No Reverse,- Rides PERFECT Forward.. Please Evaluate Advice?
This will eventually leave you on the side of the road and walking home...
Take it to a transmission shop, and have them flush the trans first with new fluid, then have them take off the pan, change the filter, and top off....
Timing is everything. Good thing it is the last weekend for cash for clunkers. Time to trade up.What type of quilt do you like beauty in eyes
your tranny fluid obviously hasn't been checked in a long time.
hold the tube with one hand while pulling the dipstick with the other. a little effort and twisting may be required but i doubt you will break it.
i checked your other questions to find out what kind of car you are talking about .http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;鈥?/a> and i will answer it here because you were misinformed.
if you change your fluid and filter reverse will work again.
i have done this for many people who were told their tranny was shot.
Source(s):
24Yrs Mechanic
==
----- Now this is the answer i posted to THAT:
It will take a LOOOONG Time before i get up enough courage to change the Fluid and Filter (I am scared to DEATH of a %26quot;No Pull.%26quot;) Can you tell me how to do it right? (And what NOT to do? -- DO NOT FLUSH, Correct? THANKS!)
.. I am going to (for now) Keep driving the car with NO REVERSE%26lt; just putting it in Neutral and pushing it backward when i have to, also pulling through spots. But can anyone tell me a YES or NO?
1991 Olds Cutlass Calais, 163,000 Miles A.T., -No Reverse,- Rides PERFECT Forward.. Please Evaluate Advice?
Your question indicates that you do not know much about maintaining a car. If you do not change your oil and filter on a regular basis the engine will eventually build up sludge in the engine pan. When this happens the oil passages will start to plug up, leading to engine failure. Same sort of thing with the radiator fluid. It must be changed on a regular basis because it loses its ability to protect from rust over time. When this happens the radiator will start to corrode and plug up and would need replacement. Same with the transmission. It has a filter in it that must be changed according to the schedule in your car manual's maintenance schedule. The fluid and filter should be changed together normally. Failure to do so will eventually result in the transmission completely malfunctioning. Is that what you really want? If you are not capable of doing the work, or afraid to try it, then take it to a competent transmission place or your car dealer.
1991 Olds Cutlass Calais, 163,000 Miles A.T., -No Reverse,- Rides PERFECT Forward.. Please Evaluate Advice?
This will eventually leave you on the side of the road and walking home...
Take it to a transmission shop, and have them flush the trans first with new fluid, then have them take off the pan, change the filter, and top off....
Timing is everything. Good thing it is the last weekend for cash for clunkers. Time to trade up.
2004 mountaineer transmission question?
my mountaineer is at 90,000 miles i bought it used at 55,000 miles. i have no idea if the transmission fluid was ever changed on it. its a sealed system so i have to take it to the dealer. i was reading a few answers people have given stating that if the transmission fluid was never changed before than you shouldn't bother changing it at all. so i need to know what to do here. when im driving it feels different than it used to, like a slightly harder shift in the gears and a slight pulling feeling when i accelerate. could be all in my head or could not.don't know if that has anything to do with the transmission fluid or something completely different, but i am assuming it does because of the whole gear shifting thing.i am extremely paranoid because my husband is in iraq and i don't want to break this vehicle before he comes home. everyone else says it seems fine but they've never driven it, only myself and my husband have. please help!! any info or advise is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance
2004 mountaineer transmission question?
If the car was maintained properly the trans oil has been changed take in and have it done also ask the dealer if there are any recalls on this.The reason some people don't want to change trans oil with high miles the new oil is high in detergent and will break up any deposits which sometimes will cause a problem.
2004 mountaineer transmission question?
If the car was maintained properly the trans oil has been changed take in and have it done also ask the dealer if there are any recalls on this.The reason some people don't want to change trans oil with high miles the new oil is high in detergent and will break up any deposits which sometimes will cause a problem.
99 Ford Contour SE, Flex Plate has to be changed?
Hi,
Got 2 jobs on my Contour.
1. Starter problems. Flex Plate has to be changed. Trans Fluid has to be replaced. Some teeths on fly wheel are broken.
2. Front Crank Seal has to be repaired for some oil leak.
Am being charged around 900 dollars in Central Jersey.
Please advise how good or bad it is.
(I deleted my previous post as I did not have these details.)
99 Ford Contour SE, Flex Plate has to be changed?
Thats good deal cause that is basically ripping the car engine out to do all that work due to it being a front wheel drive car its not like something you would reach down and take off I promise you its big mess Im mechanic but I do my own work and I don't tocuh front wheel transmissions.
99 Ford Contour SE, Flex Plate has to be changed?
Anytime you have to pull the tranny and engine, you are automatically looking at about $400. Then add all the parts and labor to fix your problems, and yes, you are getting a good deal. Fly wheel alone is a couple hundred.
I would only question why there are flywheel teeth broken? You don't want to put in a new one and have it ruined immediately. Just as long as the mechanic is sure he or you knows what happened there.
Got 2 jobs on my Contour.
1. Starter problems. Flex Plate has to be changed. Trans Fluid has to be replaced. Some teeths on fly wheel are broken.
2. Front Crank Seal has to be repaired for some oil leak.
Am being charged around 900 dollars in Central Jersey.
Please advise how good or bad it is.
(I deleted my previous post as I did not have these details.)
99 Ford Contour SE, Flex Plate has to be changed?
Thats good deal cause that is basically ripping the car engine out to do all that work due to it being a front wheel drive car its not like something you would reach down and take off I promise you its big mess Im mechanic but I do my own work and I don't tocuh front wheel transmissions.
99 Ford Contour SE, Flex Plate has to be changed?
Anytime you have to pull the tranny and engine, you are automatically looking at about $400. Then add all the parts and labor to fix your problems, and yes, you are getting a good deal. Fly wheel alone is a couple hundred.
I would only question why there are flywheel teeth broken? You don't want to put in a new one and have it ruined immediately. Just as long as the mechanic is sure he or you knows what happened there.
Why is my 2002 Ford Escort ZX2 doing this?
I've got about 70k miles on it. I recently had the rotors changed and am getting the timing belt changed tomorrow due to 1 rib of the belt breaking off (which, btw, it has still allowed me to drive 600 miles in 1 week since breaking because the rest is still intact) I've noticed that upon acceleration from a stop that no matter how hard or soft I press on the gas, my E-brake light will come on for just a few seconds. It started after the rotor change (a long while after) and before the timing belt broke, but before, it would only do it sometimes. Since the timing belt incident, it does it on every from-stop acceleration, and even occasionally as I am turning a corner. Could it be because of the timing belt, or is it something different? I do my own routine maintenance such as oil changes, fluid changes and other minor things, but, this car was bought used and I have added over 30k miles in 8 months. Any other suggestions on keeping my manual-tranny girl running smoothly?
Why is my 2002 Ford Escort ZX2 doing this?
do not need to replace the pulleys. never heard of doing that, even on a second or third Timing belt. unless there was some type of problem with them. At 70k, that is about the right time for a timing belt. The Brake light is usually both for the E-brake and for the Brakes in general. It sounds like what you may have is low fluid in the master cylinder, and on turns and acell the remaining fluid is moving to uncover the contacts. check your brake fluid level, it should be at the full mark on the side of the M/C (outside molded into the plastic if the resivour). Just change the belt, unless the Mech can show you as to why it needs new sprockets.
Why is my 2002 Ford Escort ZX2 doing this?
do not need to replace the pulleys. never heard of doing that, even on a second or third Timing belt. unless there was some type of problem with them. At 70k, that is about the right time for a timing belt. The Brake light is usually both for the E-brake and for the Brakes in general. It sounds like what you may have is low fluid in the master cylinder, and on turns and acell the remaining fluid is moving to uncover the contacts. check your brake fluid level, it should be at the full mark on the side of the M/C (outside molded into the plastic if the resivour). Just change the belt, unless the Mech can show you as to why it needs new sprockets.
94 dodge intreped Transmission?
yes ide like to know if anybody would know why aftert i took my car got the fluid %26amp; filter changed, drove it to tenn, ran great got it in the next morning it was slipping real bad. took it to a dealer down there,they said it was shot because when they changed the fluid they put way to much fluid in the transmission,now the shop that did it is telling me oh when we changed it it had alot of sludge in the pan they said they guess it was due to the transmission being clean now, and the transmission things just went out because all the dirt and things broke loose in it, i'm so p----- im thinking about getting an attorney because i never Had Any tranny problems till they changed the filter %26amp; fluid, anyone having any advice on this i'de love to hear from you thanx, its a 94 intreped 3.5 litre, 101.000 miles on it
94 dodge intreped Transmission?
i own a repair shop in Tennessee,and i can tell you this isn't normal,,its true sludge does cause problems but if it had no problems when you took it in,,it shouldn't have none now,,and they should have gotten the majority of the sludge from it when they cleaned it out ,i don't blame you for being mad i guess i would be too,,you might can hold the shop that did it responsible for it,,but it,s going to be a hard battle to win,,most of the transmission shops will say the same thing that mileage got it,,and neglect from the owner,,even if you bought it new that's what there going to say about it,,i hope you can get this matter resolved ,because it sounds like your going to be without a car pretty soon if it keeps slipping,good luck,,i hope you get this straitened out,maybe this will help.
94 dodge intreped Transmission?
Please don't waste time and money attorney fees. Just go out and get a rebuilt transmission. So you are telling the court you neglected this transmission for 100,000 miles and just before the trip a feeling of guilt came over you and you spent 70 dollars changing the pan gasket and filter? Right? As a low down dirty gutter snake of a mechanic I put that wear on that transmission and changed the fluid knowing it would stop working! Balderdash! Chrysler transmissions made by Mitsubushi only last that long.
The mechanic was telling you a fact about what happens to transmissions sometimes after a new filter and fluid flush. But If he did over fill the tranny, that is a different story! Over filling the tranny could cause unnecessary %26quot;slapping%26quot; of the transmission fluid. This %26quot;slapping%26quot; causes air bubbles, and if the bubbles get drawn into the workings of the transmission, it causes problems. Now the fact about fluid flushes and transmission filters is that some transmissions actually use its own transmission sludge to make seals of valves that would otherwise leak. Replacing the fluid and filter makes that seal on the valves disappear, thus causing slippage. This is why it is always best to replace your tranny fluid when it is due, so that this is less likely to occur.
That is one of the main reasons why I never take my care to a mechanic. I have a 95 Saturn SC2 with 195K on it. It has only been to the mechanic for tires that is it!!!!!! I've done a transmission overhaul on it myself as well at 168K. Mechanics can tell you anything because they don't want to be held liable. In this situation it is also hard to prove because the car is old and you don't have documentation of what happend before to know what is going on now. The two much fluid in the transmission thing I don't really believe. First, transmissions have weep holes if you put too much fluid it will leak all over the place when the car runs. Second, Even if they overflow the transmission to the top I've seen cars run just fine. And yes they are kind of right. There have been many cases where a transmission will not work right after a transmission flush or fluid change. This is because of what they are talking about essentially sludge or dirt that is in effect holding your transmision together broke lose and it's now not shifing. It is really more that the new fluid acts as a detergent and eats up the clutch plates.
Chrysler trannies in that year group were pretty much crap, just like the Fords of that era.
Junk it, sell it, or bite the bullet and get it rebuilt. DO NOT take it to a national chain type transmission store like AAMCO or Mr. Transmission.
Find a transmission shop that is ATRA certified and talk to them.
94 dodge intreped Transmission?
i own a repair shop in Tennessee,and i can tell you this isn't normal,,its true sludge does cause problems but if it had no problems when you took it in,,it shouldn't have none now,,and they should have gotten the majority of the sludge from it when they cleaned it out ,i don't blame you for being mad i guess i would be too,,you might can hold the shop that did it responsible for it,,but it,s going to be a hard battle to win,,most of the transmission shops will say the same thing that mileage got it,,and neglect from the owner,,even if you bought it new that's what there going to say about it,,i hope you can get this matter resolved ,because it sounds like your going to be without a car pretty soon if it keeps slipping,good luck,,i hope you get this straitened out,maybe this will help.
94 dodge intreped Transmission?
Please don't waste time and money attorney fees. Just go out and get a rebuilt transmission. So you are telling the court you neglected this transmission for 100,000 miles and just before the trip a feeling of guilt came over you and you spent 70 dollars changing the pan gasket and filter? Right? As a low down dirty gutter snake of a mechanic I put that wear on that transmission and changed the fluid knowing it would stop working! Balderdash! Chrysler transmissions made by Mitsubushi only last that long.
The mechanic was telling you a fact about what happens to transmissions sometimes after a new filter and fluid flush. But If he did over fill the tranny, that is a different story! Over filling the tranny could cause unnecessary %26quot;slapping%26quot; of the transmission fluid. This %26quot;slapping%26quot; causes air bubbles, and if the bubbles get drawn into the workings of the transmission, it causes problems. Now the fact about fluid flushes and transmission filters is that some transmissions actually use its own transmission sludge to make seals of valves that would otherwise leak. Replacing the fluid and filter makes that seal on the valves disappear, thus causing slippage. This is why it is always best to replace your tranny fluid when it is due, so that this is less likely to occur.
That is one of the main reasons why I never take my care to a mechanic. I have a 95 Saturn SC2 with 195K on it. It has only been to the mechanic for tires that is it!!!!!! I've done a transmission overhaul on it myself as well at 168K. Mechanics can tell you anything because they don't want to be held liable. In this situation it is also hard to prove because the car is old and you don't have documentation of what happend before to know what is going on now. The two much fluid in the transmission thing I don't really believe. First, transmissions have weep holes if you put too much fluid it will leak all over the place when the car runs. Second, Even if they overflow the transmission to the top I've seen cars run just fine. And yes they are kind of right. There have been many cases where a transmission will not work right after a transmission flush or fluid change. This is because of what they are talking about essentially sludge or dirt that is in effect holding your transmision together broke lose and it's now not shifing. It is really more that the new fluid acts as a detergent and eats up the clutch plates.
Chrysler trannies in that year group were pretty much crap, just like the Fords of that era.
Junk it, sell it, or bite the bullet and get it rebuilt. DO NOT take it to a national chain type transmission store like AAMCO or Mr. Transmission.
Find a transmission shop that is ATRA certified and talk to them.
199 taurus no forward no reverse did filter service no burned fluid ,filter not plugged but did change w seal?
took valve body off and found outer retainer ring for pump blades broken and ground up this allowed blades to stay in pump rotor. (thus no pressure) is this a normal failure or did something else cause it.can't tell if pump drive shaft is broken , not in pump side anyway looks good. on converter side i will have to take other plate off. shaft won't pull out of converter. is this normal or do you have to remove the other plate from bell housing? i can turn it with little effort with a rag and a pliers.
199 taurus no forward no reverse did filter service no burned fluid ,filter not plugged but did change w seal?
That type of pump failure is not typical. Either a piece of debris jammed the pump, breaking the vanes and ring, or the ring failed and damaged the vanes. In either case, the pump jammed. With the valve body/pump assembly removed, the pump shaft should just pull out with a little wiggle. If it doesn't, that means that the shaft splines are jammed in the converter splines from the force of the pump failing. You might have to use a pair of pliers to grab the shaft and rotate it a little one way or the other to un-stick it. The shaft is junk anyway. The splines are probably twisted. At minimum you need a new pump shaft and valve body/pump assembly. Probably a converter too. Might as well pull the trans, or take it to a shop for repair if you don't have a hoist, engine support and trans jack.who know all most printers loss of control in hands
199 taurus no forward no reverse did filter service no burned fluid ,filter not plugged but did change w seal?
That type of pump failure is not typical. Either a piece of debris jammed the pump, breaking the vanes and ring, or the ring failed and damaged the vanes. In either case, the pump jammed. With the valve body/pump assembly removed, the pump shaft should just pull out with a little wiggle. If it doesn't, that means that the shaft splines are jammed in the converter splines from the force of the pump failing. You might have to use a pair of pliers to grab the shaft and rotate it a little one way or the other to un-stick it. The shaft is junk anyway. The splines are probably twisted. At minimum you need a new pump shaft and valve body/pump assembly. Probably a converter too. Might as well pull the trans, or take it to a shop for repair if you don't have a hoist, engine support and trans jack.
03 Ford Transmission problem.?
Have a 03 Ford Ranger, 4 cy. Automatic transmission has been acting up. Taking a sec. to get in to gear. More so on turns. In fact today, just would not get in 2 gear. By checking trans. fluid, it would seem the fluid is too high. Any suggestions on getting extra fluid out other then changing it? Also should I add something like Lucas to it? Please help! Fluid seems a little brown. Not at 100,000 yet. Like 85,000. Don't know much about cars so took it to a shop a few mths. back to see about changing the fluid. They said that it did not look good and if they changed the fluid it could make it worse. Is that even possible? Kind of broke right now so a shop is not even really an option. Would you recommend to just flush the transmission and change the trans filter, regardless of what that shop told me before?
03 Ford Transmission problem.?
The reason they tell you that a fluid change on an already failing transmission can be a bad thing is for 2 reasons. 1.) New transmission fluid contains detergents and additives which can finish off a transmission. 2.) There are metal particles in the old oil, which, in a way, raises the viscosity of the oil, and works better in worn valves than nice clean fluid.
I would not suggest adding anything to the transmission, this can make things better short term, but worse long term. There's not much you can do in this situation, other than nurse it along as far as possible. Its likely there are worn valves in the valve body, which is causing pressure control problems, which in turn is causing slipping clutch packs, which ultimately leads to transmission demise. If the fluid is already dark and burnt smelling, it needs to be rebuilt.....period. Sorry. Maybe you can find a cheap used transmission, and install it yourself, that's a pretty easy truck to work on. Good luck!
03 Ford Transmission problem.?
maybe you hace a coolant problem.Seems wierd, but try it.Just do a filter and fluid change.
1 its new enough a flush should not hurt it [blow out gasgets etc]
2 make sure battery is good,,,connections tight aand engine tuned..I almost got a tranny rebuild because of a miss in engine
3 go to tranny shop,,there r several sensors and soliniods on auto trannys,,,dont wait 200 in repairs is less than 1500 rebuild
4 i did have to rebuild a chevy s 10 tranny with 90K...torque converter was going,,,and as we all know %26quot;as long as its apart, you may as well.....%26quot;
03 Ford Transmission problem.?
The reason they tell you that a fluid change on an already failing transmission can be a bad thing is for 2 reasons. 1.) New transmission fluid contains detergents and additives which can finish off a transmission. 2.) There are metal particles in the old oil, which, in a way, raises the viscosity of the oil, and works better in worn valves than nice clean fluid.
I would not suggest adding anything to the transmission, this can make things better short term, but worse long term. There's not much you can do in this situation, other than nurse it along as far as possible. Its likely there are worn valves in the valve body, which is causing pressure control problems, which in turn is causing slipping clutch packs, which ultimately leads to transmission demise. If the fluid is already dark and burnt smelling, it needs to be rebuilt.....period. Sorry. Maybe you can find a cheap used transmission, and install it yourself, that's a pretty easy truck to work on. Good luck!
03 Ford Transmission problem.?
maybe you hace a coolant problem.Seems wierd, but try it.Just do a filter and fluid change.
1 its new enough a flush should not hurt it [blow out gasgets etc]
2 make sure battery is good,,,connections tight aand engine tuned..I almost got a tranny rebuild because of a miss in engine
3 go to tranny shop,,there r several sensors and soliniods on auto trannys,,,dont wait 200 in repairs is less than 1500 rebuild
4 i did have to rebuild a chevy s 10 tranny with 90K...torque converter was going,,,and as we all know %26quot;as long as its apart, you may as well.....%26quot;
How to know if my Knock Sensor needs replacing?
Okay so i have a 3.0L V6 VVT - I (Variable Valve Timing), Here's my dilemma Check Engine Light comes on, I go get the codes read and they are cylinder misfire in 2,4,and 6. As well as random misfire codes. So i looked at the Sensor for the VVT, and i cleaned it off with break cleaner. It seemed to fix the problem until I drove for about 2 hours. Then it started actin up again. Almost like the transmission was slipping. So i need help, i'm going to the shop on Saturday, and i have the Sensor ordered. I'm doing a transmission fluid change as well. I have a hook up at the local Lexus dealership where all i pay is labor. I'm leavin for florida on Wednesday night. I need it fixed asap.
How to know if my Knock Sensor needs replacing?
Knock sensors retard ignition timing in the event of low octane fuel, advanced ignition timing or too much stress on the engine which will cause detonation. The VVT system works with oil pressure to advance valve timing in relation to engine speed usually over 3000rpm). If not working properly, it could advance valve timing when not required and cause misfires at low engine speeds. I doubt the knock sensor is at fault, start looking at the VVT system and wiring.
How to know if my Knock Sensor needs replacing?
VVT sensor may be going bad. what you need is a mechanic with a scanner to see into your cars computer to analyze what is going on. otherwise you will just be guessing and throwing parts $ at the problem.
mabey it's not the sensor, mabey you are missfiring. the whole point of the sensor is to throw a code if something is out of spec in the engine, that doesn't mean the sensor is bad.
first of all your looking at the knock sensor.....rarely do those go bad, try checking the condition of the spark plugs FIRST, before you start throwing money at parts.
spark plugs or wires.
How to know if my Knock Sensor needs replacing?
Knock sensors retard ignition timing in the event of low octane fuel, advanced ignition timing or too much stress on the engine which will cause detonation. The VVT system works with oil pressure to advance valve timing in relation to engine speed usually over 3000rpm). If not working properly, it could advance valve timing when not required and cause misfires at low engine speeds. I doubt the knock sensor is at fault, start looking at the VVT system and wiring.
How to know if my Knock Sensor needs replacing?
VVT sensor may be going bad. what you need is a mechanic with a scanner to see into your cars computer to analyze what is going on. otherwise you will just be guessing and throwing parts $ at the problem.
mabey it's not the sensor, mabey you are missfiring. the whole point of the sensor is to throw a code if something is out of spec in the engine, that doesn't mean the sensor is bad.
first of all your looking at the knock sensor.....rarely do those go bad, try checking the condition of the spark plugs FIRST, before you start throwing money at parts.
spark plugs or wires.
5 HP Briggs & Stratton engine on a go kart wont start?
My go cart wont start i have compression, spark and it sounds like it wants to go but it doesn't. It's been sitting for about 4 years I changed fuel, cleaned out carb and used starting fluid and still isn't kicking. I pulled it so many time the wheel in the recoil has broken and the spring is worn. Anyone know how to get my engine started and maybe where I can find the wheel where the rope sits in the recoil assembly and spring. I am willing to buy the hole assembly if needed.
5 HP Briggs %26amp; Stratton engine on a go kart wont start?
they pretty easy to work on not but a few moving parts easy to rebulid and cheap to run.... or race.... i dont have any of my old links but im sure you can find some info here that migth help you learn more about your problems any lawn mower shop can oder the parts you need plus ebay is a good site for finding stuff too and best you get another motor to for a spare so you can have one running and when it stops you can swap it out faster anyways here what i found
5 HP Briggs %26amp; Stratton engine on a go kart wont start?
get a motor catalog online. get coil off an old lawn mower or go to sears and buy a lawn mower..
well if it has gas....spark....and air...then you used starting fluid...bad mistake as this wrecks the compression in the cylinder...starting fluid should only be used if the tempreture is so cold that it wont start on gas......now you must repair the recoil and pull the plug and put oil into the cylinder then turn it over a few times to get the oil to seal the rings again...then put the plug back in...put in NEW high octane gas..and try again....if it still doesnt start then the rings may be too worn and it needs a rebuild!!
5 HP Briggs %26amp; Stratton engine on a go kart wont start?
they pretty easy to work on not but a few moving parts easy to rebulid and cheap to run.... or race.... i dont have any of my old links but im sure you can find some info here that migth help you learn more about your problems any lawn mower shop can oder the parts you need plus ebay is a good site for finding stuff too and best you get another motor to for a spare so you can have one running and when it stops you can swap it out faster anyways here what i found
5 HP Briggs %26amp; Stratton engine on a go kart wont start?
get a motor catalog online. get coil off an old lawn mower or go to sears and buy a lawn mower..
well if it has gas....spark....and air...then you used starting fluid...bad mistake as this wrecks the compression in the cylinder...starting fluid should only be used if the tempreture is so cold that it wont start on gas......now you must repair the recoil and pull the plug and put oil into the cylinder then turn it over a few times to get the oil to seal the rings again...then put the plug back in...put in NEW high octane gas..and try again....if it still doesnt start then the rings may be too worn and it needs a rebuild!!
Fluid common out from area where wisdom teeth were take out?
i just had my wisdom teeth out on Wednesday or about 5ish days ago and i was masasing my jaw and cheek area and on the lower right side
were one of the teeth were take out a big thickish glob of what im guessing is blood other fluids unkown and maybe some scar tissue or cheek stuff came out and its really gross and now that area of the jaw isnt so swollen,
some info:
i had all 4 removed and they had not broken the skin yet and were stitched up shut,
i kept gause in for about 2 days and changed it frequently
i rinsed my mouth every once in awhile with salt water about 3 days after the surgary
i am 14 years and a girl
please help because im really freaking out
Fluid common out from area where wisdom teeth were take out?
I got mine taken out about 7 days ago. The same thing happened to me on sunday and I freaked out and called my dentist and he said it's perfectly normal and its a VERY good thing that it's happening. It means you are healing well. A reason why your cheeks get swollen in the first place is becuase there is a buildup of fluids. And so all of the fluids have to escape somehow. They either ending up coming out of the wound...or they gradually become taken away by your cells. The right side of my face got the 'puss in the mouth' one...and i know it tastes bad but its relaly good..but my left side hasn't done it yet. i hope it does though b/c then all my swelling would be gone and i'd feel a lot better.
but don't worry, you're healing VERY fast actually so I hope everything else goes well! keep up the cleanliness
*.*
Fluid common out from area where wisdom teeth were take out?
I got mine taken out and think it's normal. But why not call your doctors office just to ease your mind. :))
were one of the teeth were take out a big thickish glob of what im guessing is blood other fluids unkown and maybe some scar tissue or cheek stuff came out and its really gross and now that area of the jaw isnt so swollen,
some info:
i had all 4 removed and they had not broken the skin yet and were stitched up shut,
i kept gause in for about 2 days and changed it frequently
i rinsed my mouth every once in awhile with salt water about 3 days after the surgary
i am 14 years and a girl
please help because im really freaking out
Fluid common out from area where wisdom teeth were take out?
I got mine taken out about 7 days ago. The same thing happened to me on sunday and I freaked out and called my dentist and he said it's perfectly normal and its a VERY good thing that it's happening. It means you are healing well. A reason why your cheeks get swollen in the first place is becuase there is a buildup of fluids. And so all of the fluids have to escape somehow. They either ending up coming out of the wound...or they gradually become taken away by your cells. The right side of my face got the 'puss in the mouth' one...and i know it tastes bad but its relaly good..but my left side hasn't done it yet. i hope it does though b/c then all my swelling would be gone and i'd feel a lot better.
but don't worry, you're healing VERY fast actually so I hope everything else goes well! keep up the cleanliness
*.*
Fluid common out from area where wisdom teeth were take out?
I got mine taken out and think it's normal. But why not call your doctors office just to ease your mind. :))
Friday 7 October 2011
Car trouble. 2001 kia spectra.?
i have a 2001 kia spectra automatic and my car always runs fine, this mornin my battery and break light came on but i thought it was nothing; a couple hours later i started up my car fine and was on my way to my friends house right down the street when all of a sudden it just shut off. my lights when off and my radio was turnin on and off and the accelorate was being outta control. i managed to roll into my friends driveway and i shut my car off and then it wouldnt start. her neighbor jumped it but as i was driving it home it was still doing the same thing. ive been meaning to get my transmition fluid changed for awhile seeing as its very dirty and was suppose to get it changed miles and miles ago but with such a busy schedule i havent had time. im not sure if i just need a new battery or if something else went terribly wrong.
Car trouble. 2001 kia spectra.?
you need an alternator. if is was just a bad battery the alternator would still be able to keep the car running after it was jumped since it is shutting off while driving this means the alternator is bad. but to be sure any reputable parts store will test both of them for free before you buy one or the other. this is nothing to do with your tranny fluid
Car trouble. 2001 kia spectra.?
Don't look at the tranny, look at the alternator/battery/charging system.scans but repairs web ftp hosting
Car trouble. 2001 kia spectra.?
you need an alternator. if is was just a bad battery the alternator would still be able to keep the car running after it was jumped since it is shutting off while driving this means the alternator is bad. but to be sure any reputable parts store will test both of them for free before you buy one or the other. this is nothing to do with your tranny fluid
Car trouble. 2001 kia spectra.?
Don't look at the tranny, look at the alternator/battery/charging system.
Is it possible my valve is stuck on my '86 AMC 5.4L V8?
I have a 1978 Jeep CJ-7 with an '86 AMC 5.4L V8 engine from a Wagoneer under the hood. It was starting to get a little bit of an oil leak (I know, it's a miracle it didn't leak before). I took it to a local shop to get the oil changed and asked them to add Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I used to use it in my Chrysler I6 4.0L in my '95 XJ and it worked great.
The guys at the shop forgot to let the engine idle for 5 minutes per the instructions, but I assumed they had and proceeded to drive home. I live at the top of a hill where they highway has a gentle grade up, a distance of about 1 mile.
By the time I made it to the top of the hill, the engine was sputtering and shaking. I nursed it the rest of the way home, about 1/2 mile, and parked it in my garage. Oil leaked out of it from where the pressure had forced it through the existing leak.
Now when I start the engine up, it idles roughly and won't stay running unless I gas it. It also backfires frequently. A friend of mine that has worked on a few cars said he thought it sounded like a stuck valve. I don't want to have to tear into the block if I don't have to, and I don't have tools to compress the valve springs when I put it back together.
1) Does this sound like the issue or does anyone else have any suggestions?
2) I had the idea that I'm going to dump the oil and flush it with transmission fluid (I've tested it by washing my hands with it after working on my XJ all day and it gets the grease and oil right off, better than commercial grit soaps), run the CJ for a few minutes to let the fluid break up the gunky Lucas Oil Stabilizer deposits, and then drain it out again and put oil back in. Any comments on if this would work or not?
Thanks in advance! :)
Is it possible my valve is stuck on my '86 AMC 5.4L V8?
The engine sputtering and shaking could be an indication of a bad fuel, get it replaced now.
The guys at the shop forgot to let the engine idle for 5 minutes per the instructions, but I assumed they had and proceeded to drive home. I live at the top of a hill where they highway has a gentle grade up, a distance of about 1 mile.
By the time I made it to the top of the hill, the engine was sputtering and shaking. I nursed it the rest of the way home, about 1/2 mile, and parked it in my garage. Oil leaked out of it from where the pressure had forced it through the existing leak.
Now when I start the engine up, it idles roughly and won't stay running unless I gas it. It also backfires frequently. A friend of mine that has worked on a few cars said he thought it sounded like a stuck valve. I don't want to have to tear into the block if I don't have to, and I don't have tools to compress the valve springs when I put it back together.
1) Does this sound like the issue or does anyone else have any suggestions?
2) I had the idea that I'm going to dump the oil and flush it with transmission fluid (I've tested it by washing my hands with it after working on my XJ all day and it gets the grease and oil right off, better than commercial grit soaps), run the CJ for a few minutes to let the fluid break up the gunky Lucas Oil Stabilizer deposits, and then drain it out again and put oil back in. Any comments on if this would work or not?
Thanks in advance! :)
Is it possible my valve is stuck on my '86 AMC 5.4L V8?
The engine sputtering and shaking could be an indication of a bad fuel, get it replaced now.
Why would my car be doing this lately?
I took my car in for an oil change last week and he also talked me into getting my transmission fluid changed (1999 Toyota 4-runner 162K miles). He told me my battery was low but I didn't change that and he didn't really say I HAD to. So anyways from the next day on when I start my car, it literally shakes a lot and it's just so weird to feel it shaking as if it's about to stall and go dead if you know what I mean. If I drive faster I don't feel it anymore. Any ideas? Could it be the batteries are low and it shakes? Any way to check it? My nightmare is for my car to break down on the road. Please help!
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Why would my car be doing this lately?
If the mechanic disconnected your battery to test it or clean the cables, the computer may have to relearn the idle speed. This happens automatically, all you need to do is drive with the AC and headlights off in stop and go traffic.
If that's not it and it keeps running rough, the mechanic may have left a spark plug wire loose if he checked to see if you needed a tune up. I'd go back to the shop and have them double check your motor. Is there a ses light on?
Why would my car be doing this lately?
%26quot;Could it be the batteries are low and it shakes?%26quot;
cars don't run on batteries dear :) he properly meant the fluid was low in the battery but I don't see how that would make the car shake
your car could be shaking because of the fuel injector. also, your transmission could be going bad, your battery beign low will not affect you when driving only when you try to start up your car. i would take it in to a shop and tell them it only shakes when in low gears but after it gets up to the 2 or 3, it's fine. sometimes though, they might not find one thing wrong with it...but i think it sounds like your fuel injector
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for fun these were the suggested categories for some reason:
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* Family %26amp; Relationships %26gt; Singles %26amp; Dating
* Family %26amp; Relationships %26gt; Friends
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Why would my car be doing this lately?
If the mechanic disconnected your battery to test it or clean the cables, the computer may have to relearn the idle speed. This happens automatically, all you need to do is drive with the AC and headlights off in stop and go traffic.
If that's not it and it keeps running rough, the mechanic may have left a spark plug wire loose if he checked to see if you needed a tune up. I'd go back to the shop and have them double check your motor. Is there a ses light on?
Why would my car be doing this lately?
%26quot;Could it be the batteries are low and it shakes?%26quot;
cars don't run on batteries dear :) he properly meant the fluid was low in the battery but I don't see how that would make the car shake
your car could be shaking because of the fuel injector. also, your transmission could be going bad, your battery beign low will not affect you when driving only when you try to start up your car. i would take it in to a shop and tell them it only shakes when in low gears but after it gets up to the 2 or 3, it's fine. sometimes though, they might not find one thing wrong with it...but i think it sounds like your fuel injector
Master clutch cylinder question#2?
so i had my fluid changed and it was thinner fluid, i requested it, and it sounds like metal on metal while shifting, mind you, i'm not an idiot, i used 75-80 instead of 75-90, so not too much of a difference but the old fluid probably had so much residue in it that it eased the shift and didn't make it sound like it was dieing, well the problem is that i think the clutch is wearing and that the master cylinder is worn out, it's not producing enough pressure to get the clutch to fully activate, so when i double clutch it's a perfect shift, when i don't it shifts like the transmission might break at any moment, also if i stress the car and transmission, like redline 3rd and get to about 95 on 4th and come to a stop and shift 1-2 it runs fine for like maybe 10-20 seconds, then it's back to the usual metal on metal shifts. Am i right about the clutch master and how much to get that replaced and is that part of the clutch? Would the slave have anything to do with it?
* 53 minutes ago
* - 4 days left to answer.
Additional Details
i got an 2002 hyundai accent, where's the master and slave located?
Master clutch cylinder question#2?
First things first, Buy a HAYNES Manual for your particular vehicle, at the Auto-Parts Store $20 and On-Line $25. This will help you alot if you want to work on your own car. I have messed with hydraulic clutches a little. The Master cylinder is usually mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall right in line with the push rod linkage at the top of the clutch pedal lever. There will be a little resivoir on top of it. The fluid is low. They use Brake fluid, make sure to use the correct Type. It should be printed on the res. lid. I can't imagine the cylinders leaking bad on a car that new. The Slave is normally mounted on the bell housing with two bolts and the hydraulic line connects the two cylinders together. The slave has a bleeder valve on it,you may need to bleed air out of the system if it got low enough to start pumping air. Get a flashlight and inspection mirror and look things over. There could be a leaky cylinder,loose or damaged hose,it should be obvious.
Master clutch cylinder question#2?
No hydraulic clutch that i have ever known of has ever used ANY weight of oil, they use brake fluid. But i could be wrong on a kia, no telling what they did.
Only brake fluid in a HYD clutch.. Sounds more like your synchros in tranny are a bit used up...
if double clutching makes it shift smoother,you may need to bleed the slave. sounds like there may be air in the line.double clutching gives the slave that extra pressure needed to release the throw out bearing.
if you have a metal on metal sound only when the clutch is pressed to the floor, that is not a transmission fluid issue, that is a throw out bearing or pilot bearing that is failing. i think that it is time to have a clutch replaced. at that point all four wear items are replaced, the clutch disc, the pressure plate, throw out bearing and the pilot bearing when the car is equipped with one. the clutch master cylinder,, although i do not see any relation to this problem is beside the brake master cylinder. the slave cylinder is on the bell housing or it could be an internal type. btw changing fluid types is not a good idea, engineers have done a great deal of research to determine what fluid should be used and which will optimize fuel economy along with lifespan of that part.
* 53 minutes ago
* - 4 days left to answer.
Additional Details
i got an 2002 hyundai accent, where's the master and slave located?
Master clutch cylinder question#2?
First things first, Buy a HAYNES Manual for your particular vehicle, at the Auto-Parts Store $20 and On-Line $25. This will help you alot if you want to work on your own car. I have messed with hydraulic clutches a little. The Master cylinder is usually mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall right in line with the push rod linkage at the top of the clutch pedal lever. There will be a little resivoir on top of it. The fluid is low. They use Brake fluid, make sure to use the correct Type. It should be printed on the res. lid. I can't imagine the cylinders leaking bad on a car that new. The Slave is normally mounted on the bell housing with two bolts and the hydraulic line connects the two cylinders together. The slave has a bleeder valve on it,you may need to bleed air out of the system if it got low enough to start pumping air. Get a flashlight and inspection mirror and look things over. There could be a leaky cylinder,loose or damaged hose,it should be obvious.
Master clutch cylinder question#2?
No hydraulic clutch that i have ever known of has ever used ANY weight of oil, they use brake fluid. But i could be wrong on a kia, no telling what they did.
Only brake fluid in a HYD clutch.. Sounds more like your synchros in tranny are a bit used up...
if double clutching makes it shift smoother,you may need to bleed the slave. sounds like there may be air in the line.double clutching gives the slave that extra pressure needed to release the throw out bearing.
if you have a metal on metal sound only when the clutch is pressed to the floor, that is not a transmission fluid issue, that is a throw out bearing or pilot bearing that is failing. i think that it is time to have a clutch replaced. at that point all four wear items are replaced, the clutch disc, the pressure plate, throw out bearing and the pilot bearing when the car is equipped with one. the clutch master cylinder,, although i do not see any relation to this problem is beside the brake master cylinder. the slave cylinder is on the bell housing or it could be an internal type. btw changing fluid types is not a good idea, engineers have done a great deal of research to determine what fluid should be used and which will optimize fuel economy along with lifespan of that part.
Master clutch cylinder question?
so i had my fluid changed and it was thinner fluid, i requested it, and it sounds like metal on metal while shifting, mind you, i'm not an idiot, i used 75-80 instead of 75-90, so not too much of a difference but the old fluid probably had so much residue in it that it eased the shift and didn't make it sound like it was dieing, well the problem is that i think the clutch is wearing and that the master cylinder is worn out, it's not producing enough pressure to get the clutch to fully activate, so when i double clutch it's a perfect shift, when i don't it shifts like the transmission might break at any moment, also if i stress the car and transmission, like redline 3rd and get to about 95 on 4th and come to a stop and shift 1-2 it runs fine for like maybe 10-20 seconds, then it's back to the usual metal on metal shifts. Am i right about the clutch master and how much to get that replaced and is that part of the clutch? Would the slave have anything to do with it?
Master clutch cylinder question?
could be either the slalve cylinder or the master cylinder. the slave cylinder fails more often then the master cylinder but that does not mean it can't fail.
Master clutch cylinder question?
I would say your clutch master is bad. If you can replace the slave without pulling the transmission I would do it too. If you just replace the master you might be ok for a while but usually soon after the slave may start to leak. No mater what if you have to pull the trans to replace the slave I would have it changed the next time you have the clutch replaced
Master clutch cylinder question?
could be either the slalve cylinder or the master cylinder. the slave cylinder fails more often then the master cylinder but that does not mean it can't fail.
Master clutch cylinder question?
I would say your clutch master is bad. If you can replace the slave without pulling the transmission I would do it too. If you just replace the master you might be ok for a while but usually soon after the slave may start to leak. No mater what if you have to pull the trans to replace the slave I would have it changed the next time you have the clutch replaced
Dirt Bike: Rear brake Caliper and Piston Problem.?
Dirt Bike: Rear brake Caliper and Piston Problem.?
Its a 2000 cr 125
i am recently changing my rear break pads but in order to fit the new ones on i need the piston on the caliper to move back into the caliper body so i can install the new and much thicker break pads.
the problem: i cant get the piston back into the caliper far enough to make room for the new ones.
I tried pushing and twisting it back in but it wont budge.
What do i need to do?
Thanks alot
and i took the bleeder pin out and pressed the rear brake and brake oil came out of the bleeder hole.
I think i may have to add new brake fluid... but is it possible i pumped the piston too far out??
thanks alot guys
Dirt Bike: Rear brake Caliper and Piston Problem.?
with the caliper off,place the old pad in place,then take a %26quot;c%26quot; clamp and position it over the old pad and the caliper,turn the handle on the clamp so that it pushes the piston back into the cylinder.
tighten the bleeder back up and install the caliper'
you will probably have to bleed the system since you already introduced air into the line
Dirt Bike: Rear brake Caliper and Piston Problem.?
Both the answers above me are right. A little tip to make the cylinder go back easier is to take a small nylon bristle brush (like an old toothbrush) squeeze the brake lever (or pedal depending on what end you're working on) and pump the cylinder out a little bit. Use some new brake fluid on that brush and give it a good scrubbing. Rotate the cylinder little by little scrubbing all the way until it's clean, that way you won't be cramming grime and dirt into the seals when you push it back to make room for the new brake pads.
MadDog is right.
I use C clamps. they often take a lot of pressure to get them back in. I suck the fluid out of the master cyl before I do brake jobs because when you push the piston all the way back the fluid has to go some where and oftem it goes out the master cyl. I also change my brake fuid every three years on my motrorcycle brakes.. I suggest you do that too. Saves the life of the piston.How to make a baby quilt programming
Its a 2000 cr 125
i am recently changing my rear break pads but in order to fit the new ones on i need the piston on the caliper to move back into the caliper body so i can install the new and much thicker break pads.
the problem: i cant get the piston back into the caliper far enough to make room for the new ones.
I tried pushing and twisting it back in but it wont budge.
What do i need to do?
Thanks alot
and i took the bleeder pin out and pressed the rear brake and brake oil came out of the bleeder hole.
I think i may have to add new brake fluid... but is it possible i pumped the piston too far out??
thanks alot guys
Dirt Bike: Rear brake Caliper and Piston Problem.?
with the caliper off,place the old pad in place,then take a %26quot;c%26quot; clamp and position it over the old pad and the caliper,turn the handle on the clamp so that it pushes the piston back into the cylinder.
tighten the bleeder back up and install the caliper'
you will probably have to bleed the system since you already introduced air into the line
Dirt Bike: Rear brake Caliper and Piston Problem.?
Both the answers above me are right. A little tip to make the cylinder go back easier is to take a small nylon bristle brush (like an old toothbrush) squeeze the brake lever (or pedal depending on what end you're working on) and pump the cylinder out a little bit. Use some new brake fluid on that brush and give it a good scrubbing. Rotate the cylinder little by little scrubbing all the way until it's clean, that way you won't be cramming grime and dirt into the seals when you push it back to make room for the new brake pads.
MadDog is right.
I use C clamps. they often take a lot of pressure to get them back in. I suck the fluid out of the master cyl before I do brake jobs because when you push the piston all the way back the fluid has to go some where and oftem it goes out the master cyl. I also change my brake fuid every three years on my motrorcycle brakes.. I suggest you do that too. Saves the life of the piston.
Dodge ram 5.9l gasser?
I have a dodge ram 1996 gasser 2500 with a 5.9l. I know this is a very heavy truck and when i tow, just not happy with the performance. My boat only weighs in around 1500 lbs. Even when i am just driving up-hills for a long time with no boat, it seems to not have much power. It does great on flat land. It also has a burning rubber, or break like smell more from the back , but not sure , but only when i am working the truch hard uphills only. I am nor rideing the be\reaks ither, it smells uphill also. One tome i had to stop to get out because it was so bad. seems like it is comming more from the rear. maybe dif fluid ?I plan on changing out all fluids this summer to full senthetic oils. I was told that this truck woud pull very nice. it is only a 3 speed with over drive so what grar should i use when going up steep hills ? i sometimes use 2nd but try for 3rd when not towing. od off when towing up hills and in 2nd gear. Is there ant test or some way to get more power or torqe?
Dodge ram 5.9l gasser?
the power output on these trucks was always inconsistant. it is not really that much engine for a 3/4 ton truck when you start pulling with it. be sure the plugs, wires, cap, rotor are ok, look down the throttle body to make sure there is not alot of oil in the intake (leaking plenum pan gasket). if the catalytic convertor was plugged it would lose power to the point of not being able to take throttle when it is warm, and would hum out the throttle body. there are aftermarket programmers, mopar performance has a tunnel ram intake, four barrell throttle body, iron and aluminum cylinder heads, you can get headers, dual exhaust, underdrive pullies, etc to boost power if the truck is running normally and still doesn't have enough power.
Dodge ram 5.9l gasser?
the catalytic converter is plugged
you can have the computer scanned on it to see if there are any stored trouble codes in it,that might explain the loss of power,i would also check the free play in the timing chain and gears,when a gas engine gets a lot of wear on the chain and gears it throws the timing way off,bad enough that the computer cant make up for it,so that may be the loss of power problem or some of it anyway,it being a 2500 series it should have a good gear ratio and should pull a lot better than that,you might want to have the catalytic converter checked on it,to see if there's any blockage in it,that will cause a great loss of power,as for the burning smell that could be the converter getting hot,first thing i would do is have a computer scan done on it to find out if it did have any bad sensors on it,at least you,ll be able to rule that part of it out,then all you can do is start checking anything that has to do with it loosing power,id also check the differential grease in it,if it gets low enough the gears will get hot and swell causing it to almost lock up,that might explain a few things also,really all you can do is start checking things on it,you,ll sooner or later find the problem,any exhaust shop can check the converter for you,and tell you if that is bad,they don't charge much for doing this either,good luck with it.
Dodge ram 5.9l gasser?
the power output on these trucks was always inconsistant. it is not really that much engine for a 3/4 ton truck when you start pulling with it. be sure the plugs, wires, cap, rotor are ok, look down the throttle body to make sure there is not alot of oil in the intake (leaking plenum pan gasket). if the catalytic convertor was plugged it would lose power to the point of not being able to take throttle when it is warm, and would hum out the throttle body. there are aftermarket programmers, mopar performance has a tunnel ram intake, four barrell throttle body, iron and aluminum cylinder heads, you can get headers, dual exhaust, underdrive pullies, etc to boost power if the truck is running normally and still doesn't have enough power.
Dodge ram 5.9l gasser?
the catalytic converter is plugged
you can have the computer scanned on it to see if there are any stored trouble codes in it,that might explain the loss of power,i would also check the free play in the timing chain and gears,when a gas engine gets a lot of wear on the chain and gears it throws the timing way off,bad enough that the computer cant make up for it,so that may be the loss of power problem or some of it anyway,it being a 2500 series it should have a good gear ratio and should pull a lot better than that,you might want to have the catalytic converter checked on it,to see if there's any blockage in it,that will cause a great loss of power,as for the burning smell that could be the converter getting hot,first thing i would do is have a computer scan done on it to find out if it did have any bad sensors on it,at least you,ll be able to rule that part of it out,then all you can do is start checking anything that has to do with it loosing power,id also check the differential grease in it,if it gets low enough the gears will get hot and swell causing it to almost lock up,that might explain a few things also,really all you can do is start checking things on it,you,ll sooner or later find the problem,any exhaust shop can check the converter for you,and tell you if that is bad,they don't charge much for doing this either,good luck with it.
Did my water break I'm 38 wks and 5 days.?
O.K. now I know this might sound dumb as this is my fourth child but my water only broke on its own for one of them. This morning I have been getting menstrual like cramps I tried laying down,drinking fluids and eating and it remains the same. I also have clear/white discharge I changed my panties twice already, it's not running down my leg but I'm wondering if my water might have %26quot; sprung a leak%26quot; ?
Did my water break I'm 38 wks and 5 days.?
It's possible to have it come out in trickles like that (I had that happen with my 1st kid at 35 weeks) But it actually sounds more like you have an infection (which is really common in the last few weeks) Either way you need to call your dr. and get into see them.
Did my water break I'm 38 wks and 5 days.?
I think you may have sprung a leak, give your Dr. a call, they may want you to go in so they can check how much fluid you have/lost. Congrats!
i %26quot;sprung a leak%26quot; with my second, and it felt like i peed, a few times.
Its not gonna hurt going to get check out to see if anything ruptured in there.
My water broke or started leaking in the middle of the night on a saturday, sunday afternoon i went and got checked, they admitted me and were going to induce monday morning but i went into labor on my own at midnight sunday....
Did my water break I'm 38 wks and 5 days.?
It's possible to have it come out in trickles like that (I had that happen with my 1st kid at 35 weeks) But it actually sounds more like you have an infection (which is really common in the last few weeks) Either way you need to call your dr. and get into see them.
Did my water break I'm 38 wks and 5 days.?
I think you may have sprung a leak, give your Dr. a call, they may want you to go in so they can check how much fluid you have/lost. Congrats!
i %26quot;sprung a leak%26quot; with my second, and it felt like i peed, a few times.
Its not gonna hurt going to get check out to see if anything ruptured in there.
My water broke or started leaking in the middle of the night on a saturday, sunday afternoon i went and got checked, they admitted me and were going to induce monday morning but i went into labor on my own at midnight sunday....
Clear Fluid Leak!!! help!!! Escort zx2 99?
ok so i noticed yesterday after coming out to the parking lot after about 2 hrs my car was on kind of a slope and there was a stream of what looks like water running out the side of the car near the right passenger door but up behind the tire almost. i did not think to much of it. when i got home i checked all my levels eveything is full. it did it today after pulling it out of garage it did a few drops on he drive way. its watery clear and no smell not a bit oily its in the same spot or close to where the ac drips in summer its nov havent touched ac for a while ive only been using heat. no engine light no change in cars performance or breaking. any ideas are appreciated.,
Clear Fluid Leak!!! help!!! Escort zx2 99?
Have you run the defroster? That setting uses the a/c and the heater at the same time. Also, it could have been rain water stuck in some pocket somewhere that drained when you parked on the slope.
Clear Fluid Leak!!! help!!! Escort zx2 99?
you might need more blinker fluid
Remember that the Air conditioning cycle is activated when defrost is selected. In order to defrost properly , it has to remove moisture from the air .
Clear Fluid Leak!!! help!!! Escort zx2 99?
Have you run the defroster? That setting uses the a/c and the heater at the same time. Also, it could have been rain water stuck in some pocket somewhere that drained when you parked on the slope.
Clear Fluid Leak!!! help!!! Escort zx2 99?
you might need more blinker fluid
Remember that the Air conditioning cycle is activated when defrost is selected. In order to defrost properly , it has to remove moisture from the air .
How much life is left in my truck?
I have a 1990 Dodge Ram D150, AT, fuel injected.
My truck is starting to break.. It's starting to become overwhelming the problems that it has. Here's what is happening -
In the morning, my truck always stalls, immediately after turning the key. It will continue to stumble and stall for about 5 minutes until it begins to idle steady.
When starting in the morning, I get a pretty decent sized white cloud of smoke from the exhaust, and it lasts for about 10 minutes. My coolant overflow tank drains itself about once a week. However, my radiator never needs fluid. The smoke stops after about ten minutes, and there is never any drops of water noticeable coming from the exhaust.
Recently, my truck has started to slip gears. It usually happens in the morning, but today it happened a few times. I'll start the car, put it in drive, drive for a bit. Then, I'll come to a stop, try to rev it back up, and the truck will act as if it is in neutral. I have to either restart the car, or fool with the gears for a minute to get it to go back into drive. I changed my transmission fluid and filter about 6 months ago.
In addition, I have pretty bad idling problems, I think something is wrong in my fuel system somewhere. It drives well when going fast, but when idling in park, or driving below 10 miles, or in reverse, it chugs, sputters, hesitates, etc. After replacing the fuel filter and using injector cleaner, this problem isnt as severe, but it still happens occassionally.
My main question is, how long can I expect this truck to last? Especially if I can't afford more than say $500 in repairs? Is my transmission going bad? What is happening to my coolant? Is this causing the white smoke? Even though I changed my transmission fluid 6 months ago, will changing it again help the slippage?
How much life is left in my truck?
so from my experience doge transmission are notaries for slippage so for the trans i would say that you have at the most 1-2 months of working trany and it will probably just keep getting whores try some Lukass trany fix and that might keep you going a Little longer but i would start looking for a $500 beater. i hope that answeredd part of the questin
How much life is left in my truck?
If you can't afford to maintain your vehicle, then can't afford to repair it....the vehicle won't last long at all.
For a 1990 Dodge, though, it should last somewhere near 500,000 miles, assuming the owner maintains it properly.
Anything before that....it's because it wasn't cared for.
For the age of the vehicle I would get a newer vehicle and don't sink any money into this truck.
By what you are saying, you could spend upwards of $4K.
The vehicle isn't worth it. Put the money towards a different vehicle.
禄禄禄
My truck is starting to break.. It's starting to become overwhelming the problems that it has. Here's what is happening -
In the morning, my truck always stalls, immediately after turning the key. It will continue to stumble and stall for about 5 minutes until it begins to idle steady.
When starting in the morning, I get a pretty decent sized white cloud of smoke from the exhaust, and it lasts for about 10 minutes. My coolant overflow tank drains itself about once a week. However, my radiator never needs fluid. The smoke stops after about ten minutes, and there is never any drops of water noticeable coming from the exhaust.
Recently, my truck has started to slip gears. It usually happens in the morning, but today it happened a few times. I'll start the car, put it in drive, drive for a bit. Then, I'll come to a stop, try to rev it back up, and the truck will act as if it is in neutral. I have to either restart the car, or fool with the gears for a minute to get it to go back into drive. I changed my transmission fluid and filter about 6 months ago.
In addition, I have pretty bad idling problems, I think something is wrong in my fuel system somewhere. It drives well when going fast, but when idling in park, or driving below 10 miles, or in reverse, it chugs, sputters, hesitates, etc. After replacing the fuel filter and using injector cleaner, this problem isnt as severe, but it still happens occassionally.
My main question is, how long can I expect this truck to last? Especially if I can't afford more than say $500 in repairs? Is my transmission going bad? What is happening to my coolant? Is this causing the white smoke? Even though I changed my transmission fluid 6 months ago, will changing it again help the slippage?
How much life is left in my truck?
so from my experience doge transmission are notaries for slippage so for the trans i would say that you have at the most 1-2 months of working trany and it will probably just keep getting whores try some Lukass trany fix and that might keep you going a Little longer but i would start looking for a $500 beater. i hope that answeredd part of the questin
How much life is left in my truck?
If you can't afford to maintain your vehicle, then can't afford to repair it....the vehicle won't last long at all.
For a 1990 Dodge, though, it should last somewhere near 500,000 miles, assuming the owner maintains it properly.
Anything before that....it's because it wasn't cared for.
For the age of the vehicle I would get a newer vehicle and don't sink any money into this truck.
By what you are saying, you could spend upwards of $4K.
The vehicle isn't worth it. Put the money towards a different vehicle.
禄禄禄
Fluid? discharge? i think it's amniotic fluid...please help!!?
I'm not quite sure, but I'm going in to start to have my baby on Sunday. Today I noticed a BIG change in my discharge. I'm having more white creamy discharge and my underwear and saturated with clear liquid kind of like water. I'm having cramps like pressure but I have been having that for a long time and I was told that was normal. Should I go to the hospital or just continue to monitor everything? How fast should contractions start coming after your water breaks?
Fluid? discharge? i think it's amniotic fluid...please help!!?
If your water broke your doctor needs to know, so you should go to the hospital to be evaluated. A simple swab test will tell if it's amniotic fluid or not. If you're ruptured, you may go into labor on your own within hours, but some women do not and end up being induced, because after being ruptured for about 18 hours your risk for infection raises exponentially.
Please call your doctor.
Fluid? discharge? i think it's amniotic fluid...please help!!?
You can go to the hospital and they will check to see if indeed your water has broken. I would go just to be on the safe side.
You probably lost your mucus plug and your water broke.
Continue to monitor your cramps, it may be early labor.
My contractions didn't start at all after my water broke.
Congrats and good luck!listview bug msdn
Fluid? discharge? i think it's amniotic fluid...please help!!?
If your water broke your doctor needs to know, so you should go to the hospital to be evaluated. A simple swab test will tell if it's amniotic fluid or not. If you're ruptured, you may go into labor on your own within hours, but some women do not and end up being induced, because after being ruptured for about 18 hours your risk for infection raises exponentially.
Please call your doctor.
Fluid? discharge? i think it's amniotic fluid...please help!!?
You can go to the hospital and they will check to see if indeed your water has broken. I would go just to be on the safe side.
You probably lost your mucus plug and your water broke.
Continue to monitor your cramps, it may be early labor.
My contractions didn't start at all after my water broke.
Congrats and good luck!
If water goes inside the engine whats the best way to get it out?
I bought fluded car, THE ACUTION said that it runs and drives when I got it, I changed all the fluids for the car and 3 hours later on the way home it throws a rod and the engine was broken, Is there any way I could have prevented that or not
If water goes inside the engine whats the best way to get it out?
The best way would hve been to take the heads off the engine and clean it out. Drain all the oile and flush it a few times place a bit of oil in each cylinder and crank by hand. Then put the motor back together.
If water goes inside the engine whats the best way to get it out?
Chances are, it probably wasen't the fuel but a head gasket problem in any event, gas treament reduces condensation in fuel tank and lines. Is there a lemon law where you live? If so, create a lawsuit.
If water goes inside the engine whats the best way to get it out?
The best way would hve been to take the heads off the engine and clean it out. Drain all the oile and flush it a few times place a bit of oil in each cylinder and crank by hand. Then put the motor back together.
If water goes inside the engine whats the best way to get it out?
Chances are, it probably wasen't the fuel but a head gasket problem in any event, gas treament reduces condensation in fuel tank and lines. Is there a lemon law where you live? If so, create a lawsuit.
GMC 7000 rear end broke axle ?
Hey i found i broke a axle shaft on a 80's gmc 7000 i pulled the hub cover off and the splined shaft and half of the axle came out. 1 how do i get the other half out, and 2 if the rear end no longer pulls did i break the passenger side axle as well ? or does only one broken cause it not to pull ? Also i was going to change the fluid but what else should i look for/ inspect so i don't have to do a full rear end rebuild ? And should a new axle just slide into a splined female end or do i have to pull something out like a spider gear to get the old one out and the new one in? thanks
GMC 7000 rear end broke axle ?
remove rear axle cover and try to remove shaft.I doubt you broke the other shaft but I would inspect it.
GMC 7000 rear end broke axle ?
remove rear axle cover and try to remove shaft.I doubt you broke the other shaft but I would inspect it.
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
I had to change the front brake pads in my 95 chevrolet beretta a couple of days ago. I bled the tires then added in more brake fluid. When I pressed the brake pedal it went to the floor and didn't stop the car from moving.
The next day I bled all four tires and got a little more stopping power but the pedal is still touching the floor. The calipers were squeezing the rotors. This time I noticed that the amount of brake fluid in my reservoir pretty much stayed the same since the previous bleeding.
What could be causing the problem? Is it the master cylinder or did I not bleed it enough?
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
i agree with brian you didnt bleed them in the correct order
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
First off make sure you have the back brakes if they are drum brakes set up and adjusted properly using the adjuster wheel on each one, set them so the brakes are dragging just a little against the brake drums, next you need to bleed the brakes in proper sequence, passenger side rear first, drivers side rear, passenger side front and finally drivers side front and don't let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while bleeding, keep it filled up, keep bleeding until you don't see any air bubbles coming out on each wheel.
if you didn't follow the bleeding procedure it could do that
You need to have somebody help you bleed the brakes until you get all the air out.
Sometimes this can be frustrating but keep after it until all the air is out.
The next day I bled all four tires and got a little more stopping power but the pedal is still touching the floor. The calipers were squeezing the rotors. This time I noticed that the amount of brake fluid in my reservoir pretty much stayed the same since the previous bleeding.
What could be causing the problem? Is it the master cylinder or did I not bleed it enough?
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
i agree with brian you didnt bleed them in the correct order
How do I fix a low/mushy break pedal?
First off make sure you have the back brakes if they are drum brakes set up and adjusted properly using the adjuster wheel on each one, set them so the brakes are dragging just a little against the brake drums, next you need to bleed the brakes in proper sequence, passenger side rear first, drivers side rear, passenger side front and finally drivers side front and don't let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while bleeding, keep it filled up, keep bleeding until you don't see any air bubbles coming out on each wheel.
if you didn't follow the bleeding procedure it could do that
You need to have somebody help you bleed the brakes until you get all the air out.
Sometimes this can be frustrating but keep after it until all the air is out.
Did my water just break?
Today is my due date. Just went to the doc this evenung and I was 2 cm dilated. About 1 1/2 hours ago I noticed blood when I went to the bathroom. Three times since then I've had to change my panty liner because it's like I have my period. About 10 minutes ago a felt a weird pop in my abdomen very low, but no gush or trickle of fluid. When I got up (I was laying down when I felt it) there was a trickle that wet my entire panty liner and my panties so bad I had to change them. It was like liquid butbloody and had some stringy blood in it. I'm not feeling any trickle at the moment but every few minutes I do. Also, no painful contraction like pain. This is my third pregnancy but nothing like this happened with my other 2. Should I wake my husband and have him take the kids to grandmas now?
Did my water just break?
Yes, get the kids to Grandma's. You should be in labor soon if not already in the beginning stages of contractions. This being your third, your labor will probably move along much more quickly.
Very Best Wishes %26amp; Congratulations!!!!
Did my water just break?
You broke your water and you need to see your doctor now, you need to be induced if you are not contracting.
Yes it is your water breaking! You shouldn't be asking us, though, but calling your doctor for advice. Go see your doctor NOW and good luck with your baby.
Hurry! You must call the doctor and tell them you were on the way. The baby is coming! :)
YES. Your water most likely broke. go now and good luck
congrats. to motherhood and get to that doctor you water broke honey
Sounds like it's time to go! Good luck and Congrats!
I think it did, you should consult your Dr. or your hospital asap. I am worried about the blood that your mentioning. Only your Dr can tell you what is best for you at this point. You may not have any contractions but your water has broken for sure. Good luck.
hurry man! no time to waste the liltle one is coming out! you most likely broke your water you will start getting contractions in a few. good luck and hope its a beautiful babygirl!
What are you doing on here asking about it!!??? If that happened to me id be rushing to the hospital! Go to the hospital NOW!
Did my water just break?
Yes, get the kids to Grandma's. You should be in labor soon if not already in the beginning stages of contractions. This being your third, your labor will probably move along much more quickly.
Very Best Wishes %26amp; Congratulations!!!!
Did my water just break?
You broke your water and you need to see your doctor now, you need to be induced if you are not contracting.
Yes it is your water breaking! You shouldn't be asking us, though, but calling your doctor for advice. Go see your doctor NOW and good luck with your baby.
Hurry! You must call the doctor and tell them you were on the way. The baby is coming! :)
YES. Your water most likely broke. go now and good luck
congrats. to motherhood and get to that doctor you water broke honey
Sounds like it's time to go! Good luck and Congrats!
I think it did, you should consult your Dr. or your hospital asap. I am worried about the blood that your mentioning. Only your Dr can tell you what is best for you at this point. You may not have any contractions but your water has broken for sure. Good luck.
hurry man! no time to waste the liltle one is coming out! you most likely broke your water you will start getting contractions in a few. good luck and hope its a beautiful babygirl!
What are you doing on here asking about it!!??? If that happened to me id be rushing to the hospital! Go to the hospital NOW!
Chevrolet Malibu 2001 Transmission Flush or not?
Hello,
I have a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu with 75,000 miles. I have never had any service on my Transmission. I noticed that there should have been preventative maintenance around 50,000 miles for the automatic transmission. I am not experiencing any transmission problems yet, however, during my oil change today the mechanics showed me my transmission fluid. It was about as black as the oil was. They told me that it was extremely dirty, and that I should have the transmission flushed.
They suggested: Change the transmission filter and have all new fluid put in via a transmission flush. I have read horror stories about transmission flushes that yield a broken transmission. This is usually due to deposits and junk in the transmission that get disloged and then stuck in another part of the transmission during the flushing.
Should I get the filter and fluid changed, or should I do this transmission flushing, or both? The quote was $250 for a new filter, fluid and flush.
Thanks
Chevrolet Malibu 2001 Transmission Flush or not?
It may be too late to do any good...if the fluid smells burnt or has little specs or flakes of metal, it could be the trans is on it's last legs anyway and not worth the effort. Trans flushing and filter change should be done as the fluid will get contaminated over time and absorb moisture. Any gunk that's loosened up should get picked out by the trans filter or a filter on the machine they use...check with them on that issue.Have them drop the pan first and they can tell how much friction plate material or metal material has worn off and let you know if it's a lot or minor amount to give you an idea of what shape the trans is in...have them show it to you. If you only do the fluid and filter change, there's still a lot of old fluid in the lines, trans cooler and torque converter that will just contaminate the new fluid and render it just as bad....waste of money. Transmissions need service just like any other system on the car to make them last longer, if done correctly and at the proper mileage. You've gone 25,000 miles past the maintenance point and hopefully, it has not done any serious damage to the trans or shortened it's life span. Read this article:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.h鈥?/a>
Chevrolet Malibu 2001 Transmission Flush or not?
If your fluid was dark as oil it was oil, sounds like a scam to me, but it is recomended every 60,000 miles. Check it your self physically put some fluid on a napkin, if there are actual pieces of metal on the paper change the trans fluid and filter asap. Yes let them flush it, that is the only way to get the old fluid out of the torque converter and replace it with new. They will charge you for an extra 5 or 6 quarts of oil because that's how much a torque converter holds. P.S. you should not need a new gasket, it should be a rubber reuseable one, ask to see the old one if they try to sell you one, I worked at a dealership and they will fix your car whether it needs it or not. A dealership will try to %26quot;socket%26quot; to you, pun intended!
I strongly recomend that you do. It is cheap insurance. By the way the tranny oil is hard to check on this vehicle as there is no dipstick on it. But I can tell you from experience that replacing the tranny on this car sucks, the entire underside of the front half of the car has to come off, its no fun and I can imagine not cheap at a shop. I dont charge people much to work on thier cars personally as I find it fun. Ask the mechanic to show you how they checked your transmission fluid, and what did they show it to you on?
I don't know who you took it to,but with my 30+ years of experience,I really doubt if your fluid was black at 75,000 miles if it was my car I wouldn't do a flush and I would just have the filter changed and new fluid.If the car was running fine it should still be fine.
That is a LOT of $$ for something you probably don't need. If the person trying to sell you this really knew anything about cars, he wouldn't be changing oil. I would call a Chevy dealer and ask them. If your trans isn't acting up, I wouldn't sweat it. Most people never get this done and are just fine.with children relationship multiple tables
I have a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu with 75,000 miles. I have never had any service on my Transmission. I noticed that there should have been preventative maintenance around 50,000 miles for the automatic transmission. I am not experiencing any transmission problems yet, however, during my oil change today the mechanics showed me my transmission fluid. It was about as black as the oil was. They told me that it was extremely dirty, and that I should have the transmission flushed.
They suggested: Change the transmission filter and have all new fluid put in via a transmission flush. I have read horror stories about transmission flushes that yield a broken transmission. This is usually due to deposits and junk in the transmission that get disloged and then stuck in another part of the transmission during the flushing.
Should I get the filter and fluid changed, or should I do this transmission flushing, or both? The quote was $250 for a new filter, fluid and flush.
Thanks
Chevrolet Malibu 2001 Transmission Flush or not?
It may be too late to do any good...if the fluid smells burnt or has little specs or flakes of metal, it could be the trans is on it's last legs anyway and not worth the effort. Trans flushing and filter change should be done as the fluid will get contaminated over time and absorb moisture. Any gunk that's loosened up should get picked out by the trans filter or a filter on the machine they use...check with them on that issue.Have them drop the pan first and they can tell how much friction plate material or metal material has worn off and let you know if it's a lot or minor amount to give you an idea of what shape the trans is in...have them show it to you. If you only do the fluid and filter change, there's still a lot of old fluid in the lines, trans cooler and torque converter that will just contaminate the new fluid and render it just as bad....waste of money. Transmissions need service just like any other system on the car to make them last longer, if done correctly and at the proper mileage. You've gone 25,000 miles past the maintenance point and hopefully, it has not done any serious damage to the trans or shortened it's life span. Read this article:
http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.h鈥?/a>
Chevrolet Malibu 2001 Transmission Flush or not?
If your fluid was dark as oil it was oil, sounds like a scam to me, but it is recomended every 60,000 miles. Check it your self physically put some fluid on a napkin, if there are actual pieces of metal on the paper change the trans fluid and filter asap. Yes let them flush it, that is the only way to get the old fluid out of the torque converter and replace it with new. They will charge you for an extra 5 or 6 quarts of oil because that's how much a torque converter holds. P.S. you should not need a new gasket, it should be a rubber reuseable one, ask to see the old one if they try to sell you one, I worked at a dealership and they will fix your car whether it needs it or not. A dealership will try to %26quot;socket%26quot; to you, pun intended!
I strongly recomend that you do. It is cheap insurance. By the way the tranny oil is hard to check on this vehicle as there is no dipstick on it. But I can tell you from experience that replacing the tranny on this car sucks, the entire underside of the front half of the car has to come off, its no fun and I can imagine not cheap at a shop. I dont charge people much to work on thier cars personally as I find it fun. Ask the mechanic to show you how they checked your transmission fluid, and what did they show it to you on?
I don't know who you took it to,but with my 30+ years of experience,I really doubt if your fluid was black at 75,000 miles if it was my car I wouldn't do a flush and I would just have the filter changed and new fluid.If the car was running fine it should still be fine.
That is a LOT of $$ for something you probably don't need. If the person trying to sell you this really knew anything about cars, he wouldn't be changing oil. I would call a Chevy dealer and ask them. If your trans isn't acting up, I wouldn't sweat it. Most people never get this done and are just fine.
Wobbly / Vibrating Car?
2007 Mitsubishi Lancer front wheel drive, 59000 miles, recent tune-up, breaks etc check, oil change, transmission fluid and filter change, front driver's side tire replaced day before Thanksgiving b/c of an air bubble, other tires are only 3 months old, alignment done 3 months ago also, all tires are at proper air pressure.
Out of nowhere my car shimmies and shakes and vibrates A LOT, at any speed, even while idling (vibration is not as bad while idling but worsens when moving but doesn't appear to get worse the faster I go). Just noticed this tonight. Feels almost like I'm driving on marbles / gravel even on really smooth roads. Can feel vibration though steering wheel and pedals. Almost feels like its the tires, but I'm just not sure. Not having any problem steering / navigating turns.
*Note: I am not a mechanic and will take my car to a shop to get it fixed, I'm just looking for suggestions on what it could possibly be.
Wobbly / Vibrating Car?
start by getting the tires re-balanced....even new tires when installed can be outa balance----or the tech mounting them doesn't know wtf he's doing and doesn't balance them properly----they did that on my truck.. if rebalancing doesn't fix it, then check the ball joints, and sometimes a worn CV will cause vibrations but only while moving.
Out of nowhere my car shimmies and shakes and vibrates A LOT, at any speed, even while idling (vibration is not as bad while idling but worsens when moving but doesn't appear to get worse the faster I go). Just noticed this tonight. Feels almost like I'm driving on marbles / gravel even on really smooth roads. Can feel vibration though steering wheel and pedals. Almost feels like its the tires, but I'm just not sure. Not having any problem steering / navigating turns.
*Note: I am not a mechanic and will take my car to a shop to get it fixed, I'm just looking for suggestions on what it could possibly be.
Wobbly / Vibrating Car?
start by getting the tires re-balanced....even new tires when installed can be outa balance----or the tech mounting them doesn't know wtf he's doing and doesn't balance them properly----they did that on my truck.. if rebalancing doesn't fix it, then check the ball joints, and sometimes a worn CV will cause vibrations but only while moving.
Considerable loss of power?
2007 Mitsubishi Lancer front wheel drive, 59000 miles, recent tune-up, breaks etc check, oil change, transmission fluid and filter change, all tires are at proper air pressure.
.
While on the way home from a 32 hour drive out west we noticed my car was losing power. RPM's rev up really high to the point I'm red-lining when shifting from 2nd to 3rd sometimes. Car shifts really hard, when I let off the gas slightly while going downhill I lost 10MPH immediately, going uphill (even on the smallest of inclines) is a chore, my car loses speed even-though I'm on the gas, have to floor it just to get it to go faster, no check engine lights on, took it to a transmission shop, engine shop, and even the dealership and its not showing any codes, no one seems to know whats wrong with it. Loss of power is not so noticeable at lower speeds (under 40MPH), car shifts harder (it kind of jerks when it decides to shift) at the lower gears (1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd and even shifts hard while downshifting)
Any ideas? Everyone I've took it to is stumped.
Considerable loss of power?
could be a stuck-up brake (or brakes) but that should be pretty easy to spot... hey, if the dealership is stumped, so would everybody else here i suppose...
Considerable loss of power?
check for restricted exhaust [cat]
.
While on the way home from a 32 hour drive out west we noticed my car was losing power. RPM's rev up really high to the point I'm red-lining when shifting from 2nd to 3rd sometimes. Car shifts really hard, when I let off the gas slightly while going downhill I lost 10MPH immediately, going uphill (even on the smallest of inclines) is a chore, my car loses speed even-though I'm on the gas, have to floor it just to get it to go faster, no check engine lights on, took it to a transmission shop, engine shop, and even the dealership and its not showing any codes, no one seems to know whats wrong with it. Loss of power is not so noticeable at lower speeds (under 40MPH), car shifts harder (it kind of jerks when it decides to shift) at the lower gears (1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd and even shifts hard while downshifting)
Any ideas? Everyone I've took it to is stumped.
Considerable loss of power?
could be a stuck-up brake (or brakes) but that should be pretty easy to spot... hey, if the dealership is stumped, so would everybody else here i suppose...
Considerable loss of power?
check for restricted exhaust [cat]
Is my brake master cylinder bad?
hopfully there is someone who can help me with this question. I have a 99 chevy malibu, 3.1 v6. I replaced the front brake calipers. When I started to bleed them, I could not get the fluid to pump to the bleeder valve on the caliper with enough pressure to bleed it. The fluid would only come out slowly no matter how hard you pumped the brakes. So I went ahead and hooked the rubber line to the bleeder screw and dropped it into my containor of brake fluid. After pumping the breaks for aprx 10 minues, I had barely even pumped any fluid out at all. Still lot's of air. It just isn't putting enough pressure to the fluid to get it to come out fast enough to get all the air out. The brake pedal never gets any firmer no matter how long you pump it. This holds true for both sides. Before changing the calipers, I had noticed a cpl of times while driving that the pedal seemed to be going down farther than normal. That is why I originally put new brakes and calipers on it.
Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Sounds like you probably did the wrong repair, so now you still have the original problem plus some problems that you created your self.
Start from the top by getting all 4 wheels off and inspecting the whole system. I don't remember if a 99 malibu has rear disk or drum, i think drum. The most common reasons for excessive pedal travel, the first being the rear brakes out of adjustment.Adjust rear brakes with the star wheel, you want enough drag to give the drum a good spin and only getting about 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution out of it when you let go of it. The next likely cause of excessive pedal travel is a leak in the system, at this point its most likely the rear wheel cylinders.
If you've now determined the brakes are properly adjusted and you have no hydraulic leaks, open all 4 blead screws and gravity bleed tell you see fluid dripping out all 4. Then close and bleed all the way around starting at wheel farthest away from master and working in order to closest.
You may have been taking alot of air into the sys when you had a leak or durring the repair so bleeding it may be tough, but the gravity bleed first should help.
If you get this far and still have the same problem clamp off all 4 of the rubber brake hoses. Now you should have a hard pedal even if there is still air in the system, if not it should be a bad master(usually a bad master gives you a good pedal right at first then slowly drops.) If the pedals hard hold it down then have an assistant begin removing the clamps on the hoses, again starting furthest from the master and working closer in order. When you remove a clamp at a certain wheel and the pedal drops you just found the leak or the air pocket.
Dude don't over complicate this. Even if its white its not the space shuttle. I'm telling you, do the clamp test its saved my butt many times, and I've showed pro techs how to do it and they were thankfull.
You can buy clamps for brake hoses at most parts stores for probably 20 bucks, in a pinch you can use vice grips witha shop rag wraped around to protect the hoses. Brake Basics 101 start from the farthest point from the master and work your way back towars the master when you remove a clamp and the pedal drops you found the problem.Dont guess. TEST. Do this and get out of the heat.
Is my brake master cylinder bad?
That seems odd.
I doubt your master cylinder is bad.
There is a proportioning valve that blocks the flow of brake fluid in the event you have a brake line failier.
Close the bleeders.
Pump up the brakes.
Have SOMEONE ELSE open one of the bleeders WHILE you hold the pedal down.
Repeat this several times and don't let the master cylinder go dry. Otherwise you'll have to start all over.
ADDED:
Adjust your rear brakes too.
Ok so are you doing this by yourself? This may sound insulting but I gotta ask to be sure I'm giving you the right answer so here goes. You do know that it takes two people to bleed brakes and that you dont pump with the bleeder open right?? If you pump with the bleeder open you just keep sucking more air in when the pedal goes back up. That being said....If you doing it right, your first step is to open all the bleeders for the brakes, front and rear, and let them %26quot;gravity bleed%26quot;. That means just walk away for about half an hour or so and only come back to check the fluid. When you have pretty steady flow out of all bleeders close them off and pump the brakes. If the pedal doesnt get hard after a few pumps just hold it down anyway and have someone open the right rear bleeder screw for a few seconds then close it and pump the brakes up again. It sounds like you just got a LOT of air in the brakes. Even if the master cylinder was bad you would still be able to bleed the brakes you just wouldnt be able to keep a hard pedal when you were done. Kind of a long winded answer but hopefully if helps. If you want more details just send me an email or IM. Good Luck!!!
is your brake warning light on?.....if so....it is your proportioning valve.....it,s purpose is to regulate the flow....regulate pressure...approx. 75% front-25% rear....it also will cut off either front or rear in case of hydraulic failure...%26amp; will turn on the warning light.......if it has shut off flow to your front...you,ll never get them bled unless you center the valve first....to do this you,ll need the help of a friend.....close front hydraulic,s...pump up brake,s %26amp; hold....open rear bleeder untill light turn,s off...close bleeder.....then lessen pressure on pedal slightly....proceed to bleed front....if the light come,s back on...you must recenter the valve.....it is located aprox. 10 inch,s directly below the master.....some model,s had a 1/8 hole in the side...after centering...insert a 1/8 drill bit in the hole to keep the valve from cycling...then you can bleed as in old day,s.....don,t forget to remove drill bit when done...good luck!.......if your problem still exist,s....change master....bench bleed it first.....also change front brake hoses....they have been known to cause similar problem,s......e-mail if you need further assistance...once again.....good luck!
The one obvious thing I miss from your description is:
Did you fill the master cylinder reservioir?
Get a good bleeder kit or a cleaned out oil squirt can and clean brake fluid and introduce the fluid at the bleeder on the caliper... this will force the air bubbles to rise into the master cyl. resevoir... sometimes a system has to be bled backwards to get initial pressure and then it can be bled conventional... hope this helps... oh yes...you will need a small hose to connect the can to the bleeder valve...
It could be either the master cylinder, or the proportioning valve, or both. Try this, press on the brake, and hold pressure. Does it continue to go down? You have either a leak or a bad master cylinder if so. Let off slightly and press again. Does it go to the floor? You definitely have a bad one if that happens. I'd change out the master cylinder first, see if that corrects the problem.
Is my brake master cylinder bad?
Sounds like you probably did the wrong repair, so now you still have the original problem plus some problems that you created your self.
Start from the top by getting all 4 wheels off and inspecting the whole system. I don't remember if a 99 malibu has rear disk or drum, i think drum. The most common reasons for excessive pedal travel, the first being the rear brakes out of adjustment.Adjust rear brakes with the star wheel, you want enough drag to give the drum a good spin and only getting about 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution out of it when you let go of it. The next likely cause of excessive pedal travel is a leak in the system, at this point its most likely the rear wheel cylinders.
If you've now determined the brakes are properly adjusted and you have no hydraulic leaks, open all 4 blead screws and gravity bleed tell you see fluid dripping out all 4. Then close and bleed all the way around starting at wheel farthest away from master and working in order to closest.
You may have been taking alot of air into the sys when you had a leak or durring the repair so bleeding it may be tough, but the gravity bleed first should help.
If you get this far and still have the same problem clamp off all 4 of the rubber brake hoses. Now you should have a hard pedal even if there is still air in the system, if not it should be a bad master(usually a bad master gives you a good pedal right at first then slowly drops.) If the pedals hard hold it down then have an assistant begin removing the clamps on the hoses, again starting furthest from the master and working closer in order. When you remove a clamp at a certain wheel and the pedal drops you just found the leak or the air pocket.
Dude don't over complicate this. Even if its white its not the space shuttle. I'm telling you, do the clamp test its saved my butt many times, and I've showed pro techs how to do it and they were thankfull.
You can buy clamps for brake hoses at most parts stores for probably 20 bucks, in a pinch you can use vice grips witha shop rag wraped around to protect the hoses. Brake Basics 101 start from the farthest point from the master and work your way back towars the master when you remove a clamp and the pedal drops you found the problem.Dont guess. TEST. Do this and get out of the heat.
Is my brake master cylinder bad?
That seems odd.
I doubt your master cylinder is bad.
There is a proportioning valve that blocks the flow of brake fluid in the event you have a brake line failier.
Close the bleeders.
Pump up the brakes.
Have SOMEONE ELSE open one of the bleeders WHILE you hold the pedal down.
Repeat this several times and don't let the master cylinder go dry. Otherwise you'll have to start all over.
ADDED:
Adjust your rear brakes too.
Ok so are you doing this by yourself? This may sound insulting but I gotta ask to be sure I'm giving you the right answer so here goes. You do know that it takes two people to bleed brakes and that you dont pump with the bleeder open right?? If you pump with the bleeder open you just keep sucking more air in when the pedal goes back up. That being said....If you doing it right, your first step is to open all the bleeders for the brakes, front and rear, and let them %26quot;gravity bleed%26quot;. That means just walk away for about half an hour or so and only come back to check the fluid. When you have pretty steady flow out of all bleeders close them off and pump the brakes. If the pedal doesnt get hard after a few pumps just hold it down anyway and have someone open the right rear bleeder screw for a few seconds then close it and pump the brakes up again. It sounds like you just got a LOT of air in the brakes. Even if the master cylinder was bad you would still be able to bleed the brakes you just wouldnt be able to keep a hard pedal when you were done. Kind of a long winded answer but hopefully if helps. If you want more details just send me an email or IM. Good Luck!!!
is your brake warning light on?.....if so....it is your proportioning valve.....it,s purpose is to regulate the flow....regulate pressure...approx. 75% front-25% rear....it also will cut off either front or rear in case of hydraulic failure...%26amp; will turn on the warning light.......if it has shut off flow to your front...you,ll never get them bled unless you center the valve first....to do this you,ll need the help of a friend.....close front hydraulic,s...pump up brake,s %26amp; hold....open rear bleeder untill light turn,s off...close bleeder.....then lessen pressure on pedal slightly....proceed to bleed front....if the light come,s back on...you must recenter the valve.....it is located aprox. 10 inch,s directly below the master.....some model,s had a 1/8 hole in the side...after centering...insert a 1/8 drill bit in the hole to keep the valve from cycling...then you can bleed as in old day,s.....don,t forget to remove drill bit when done...good luck!.......if your problem still exist,s....change master....bench bleed it first.....also change front brake hoses....they have been known to cause similar problem,s......e-mail if you need further assistance...once again.....good luck!
The one obvious thing I miss from your description is:
Did you fill the master cylinder reservioir?
Get a good bleeder kit or a cleaned out oil squirt can and clean brake fluid and introduce the fluid at the bleeder on the caliper... this will force the air bubbles to rise into the master cyl. resevoir... sometimes a system has to be bled backwards to get initial pressure and then it can be bled conventional... hope this helps... oh yes...you will need a small hose to connect the can to the bleeder valve...
It could be either the master cylinder, or the proportioning valve, or both. Try this, press on the brake, and hold pressure. Does it continue to go down? You have either a leak or a bad master cylinder if so. Let off slightly and press again. Does it go to the floor? You definitely have a bad one if that happens. I'd change out the master cylinder first, see if that corrects the problem.
Why does the transmission in my craftsman riding mower slow down when I turn tight?
I have a riding mower that is hydrostatic drive. When I make a sharp turn it slows down to a crawl then when I straighten out it speeds up again. I do small engine repair on the side but this is my first hydro trans encounter. I tore it apart last winter and checked for wore or broken parts and did a fluid change. I am thinking that the belt might be loose. It feels like it should have more power than it does. It has a 20 hp kohler on it with a 48 inch deck.I am not sure what model it is because it was in a fire and melter the plastic hood. The sticker under the seat has char-ed beyond reading. But it runs and mowes like new. It is only about 4 years old. Any suggestions would be help full. It also moves faster in reverse than in forward. It is almost like the trans was put in backwards but the way it is put in it can only go one way. Thank you for the help.
Why does the transmission in my craftsman riding mower slow down when I turn tight?
There is a purging procedure that might help. Stick with me on this. First put the tractor on level ground with engine off. Disengage transmission using the little lever in the back of the tractor. Start the engine at slow with transmission in neutral and clutch pedal out. Move the shift lever to full forward and hold for five seconds. Move the shift lever to full reverse and hold for five seconds. Do this three times. Shut the engine off and engage the transmission. Start the engine and run about half throttle, slowly move the shift lever forward and go about five feet, slowly move the lever to reverse and go about five feet and return the lever to neutral, do this 3 times. That is the purge procedure from the manual.
Why does the transmission in my craftsman riding mower slow down when I turn tight?
There is a purging procedure that might help. Stick with me on this. First put the tractor on level ground with engine off. Disengage transmission using the little lever in the back of the tractor. Start the engine at slow with transmission in neutral and clutch pedal out. Move the shift lever to full forward and hold for five seconds. Move the shift lever to full reverse and hold for five seconds. Do this three times. Shut the engine off and engage the transmission. Start the engine and run about half throttle, slowly move the shift lever forward and go about five feet, slowly move the lever to reverse and go about five feet and return the lever to neutral, do this 3 times. That is the purge procedure from the manual.
When your water breaks, does it have to soak everything? Can it just make your underwear damp?
I have always had these leaking for the past 2 weeks -its clear and watery - got tested and they said it wasnt amniotic fluid. Well my underwear were damp just now so I changed them to see if they will be damp again...what is it making them damp? (Not soaked - just like if you would have leaked pee a little bit) It isnt pee either, because it doesnt smell. I am 38 weeks (just starting) and this is my third child.
When your water breaks, does it have to soak everything? Can it just make your underwear damp?
i was told it should feel like a dribbling liquid...it should fill a pantyliner about every hour or faster. also it should slow when you stand up (the baby's head acts as a stopper) however, with my little one she had her shoulder pushed up and whenever i stood up it let more out! i called the er and they said to come on in. they had me test it and then they admitted me...once your water breaks you only have 24 hours to get the little one out because it allows for more infection to possible get in. congrats and good luck
When your water breaks, does it have to soak everything? Can it just make your underwear damp?
ewwww. My underwear get damp after gym class sometimes.
It could be amniotic fluid, it could be pee or it could just be sweat. I've had the same thing and my doctor said that it wasn't. My bet is that it's probably just sweat. When your water breaks it can either be a small tiny leak or a gush. Just keep track of contractions and see if it stays wet.
if you see even a little bit of blood in it and start getting frequent contractions even if they dont hurt I think your ready
I remember in my last trimester I would get that feeling as well. It was a toss up between sweat, normal discharge and sometimes even a little urine leaks out if the baby is sitting on your bladder just right. Best of luck to you!
For every pregnancy it's different as well as for every woman too. Yes, it could very well start out leaking a little and then burst like a dam and everything will get soaked but good.
I suggest that you seek out your doctor right away just in case you may be in labor and God forbid something be wrong.
Better safe then sorry so please get to your doctor and he/she can know for sure.
Best of luck and go to your doctor now.
It's 'just pee' and you are 'getting enough water' so it doesn't 'smell like pee' ... and that is a 'very good thing' ... and if you don't like 'changing your panties' when you get 'damp' then start using a 'pad' to absorb that moisture. When your 'water breaks' you will KNOW IT ... because you'll feel 'less fat' suddenly, and there will be 'water' leaking down the insides of your legs ... although it doesn't always 'flood' you'll KNOW if your 'water breaks' before you are in the hospital ...good tanning lotion web development
When your water breaks, does it have to soak everything? Can it just make your underwear damp?
i was told it should feel like a dribbling liquid...it should fill a pantyliner about every hour or faster. also it should slow when you stand up (the baby's head acts as a stopper) however, with my little one she had her shoulder pushed up and whenever i stood up it let more out! i called the er and they said to come on in. they had me test it and then they admitted me...once your water breaks you only have 24 hours to get the little one out because it allows for more infection to possible get in. congrats and good luck
When your water breaks, does it have to soak everything? Can it just make your underwear damp?
ewwww. My underwear get damp after gym class sometimes.
It could be amniotic fluid, it could be pee or it could just be sweat. I've had the same thing and my doctor said that it wasn't. My bet is that it's probably just sweat. When your water breaks it can either be a small tiny leak or a gush. Just keep track of contractions and see if it stays wet.
if you see even a little bit of blood in it and start getting frequent contractions even if they dont hurt I think your ready
I remember in my last trimester I would get that feeling as well. It was a toss up between sweat, normal discharge and sometimes even a little urine leaks out if the baby is sitting on your bladder just right. Best of luck to you!
For every pregnancy it's different as well as for every woman too. Yes, it could very well start out leaking a little and then burst like a dam and everything will get soaked but good.
I suggest that you seek out your doctor right away just in case you may be in labor and God forbid something be wrong.
Better safe then sorry so please get to your doctor and he/she can know for sure.
Best of luck and go to your doctor now.
It's 'just pee' and you are 'getting enough water' so it doesn't 'smell like pee' ... and that is a 'very good thing' ... and if you don't like 'changing your panties' when you get 'damp' then start using a 'pad' to absorb that moisture. When your 'water breaks' you will KNOW IT ... because you'll feel 'less fat' suddenly, and there will be 'water' leaking down the insides of your legs ... although it doesn't always 'flood' you'll KNOW if your 'water breaks' before you are in the hospital ...
What does a rattling noise mean?
I have a 2003 Civic that has recently (past two days) been making rattling noises when the car is stopped. If I hit the breaks, no noise, but if I'm stopped at a light it'll get increasingly louder. I've check all my fluids and my air filter, and everything is in good shape. I don't need to take my car in for an oil or oil filter change for another 1000mi. What could it be?
What does a rattling noise mean?
This could be the problem. There are aluminum covers around the exhaust pipes. This keeps heat from damaging electrical wires and electronics, these could be loose and just need tightening. Try that before u look at anything else.
What does a rattling noise mean?
Heat shield on the muffler, get under there when it is cold and shake the exhaust near the muffler.
The answers above are a more likely reason for the rattle than one I thought of. But I wondered why applying the brake stops the rattle? One common reason would be a brake related vacuum leak which is alleviated by pressing the brake pedal. A vacuum leak causes a rough idle, and the rattle is simply a symptom of a rough idle when the engine starts shaking your exhaust system and heat shields as diagnosed in the answers above. Another reason applying the brake would stop a rough idle is when you have a sticking or failing Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid in the transmission. The TCC solenoid should be disengaged at idle, but can hang up and partially engage causing an engine to stall or idle rough. However, the TCC is automatically disengaged by applying the brakes at any time (idle or at road speed). So I'm guessing that you may have a bad TCC solenoid in your transmission. The transmission TCC problem could be covered under your power train warranty or a secret warranty because Honda knows they have a TCC failure pattern (see TSB bulletin below). Tell the Honda shop technician that your engine idles rough until you apply the brakes.
probably a loose heat shield on your exhaust system
What does a rattling noise mean?
This could be the problem. There are aluminum covers around the exhaust pipes. This keeps heat from damaging electrical wires and electronics, these could be loose and just need tightening. Try that before u look at anything else.
What does a rattling noise mean?
Heat shield on the muffler, get under there when it is cold and shake the exhaust near the muffler.
The answers above are a more likely reason for the rattle than one I thought of. But I wondered why applying the brake stops the rattle? One common reason would be a brake related vacuum leak which is alleviated by pressing the brake pedal. A vacuum leak causes a rough idle, and the rattle is simply a symptom of a rough idle when the engine starts shaking your exhaust system and heat shields as diagnosed in the answers above. Another reason applying the brake would stop a rough idle is when you have a sticking or failing Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid in the transmission. The TCC solenoid should be disengaged at idle, but can hang up and partially engage causing an engine to stall or idle rough. However, the TCC is automatically disengaged by applying the brakes at any time (idle or at road speed). So I'm guessing that you may have a bad TCC solenoid in your transmission. The transmission TCC problem could be covered under your power train warranty or a secret warranty because Honda knows they have a TCC failure pattern (see TSB bulletin below). Tell the Honda shop technician that your engine idles rough until you apply the brakes.
probably a loose heat shield on your exhaust system
Is it possible to leak amniotic fluid and not know it?
Today I went swimming to ease my pregnancy symptoms, and when I got back inside, I changed out of my swim suit and wrapped a towel around myself, i was pretty much dried off. I sat on the bed to put my shorts on, and got up and went back to the bathroom. When I came back into my bedroom I noticed a pretty big wet mark on my bed where I sat, it wasn't like alot, because Ive been expecting a big gush when my water breaks, but if it were just because i got out of the pool and still had water on me, there was too much for that. I havent been feeling any contractions or anything, but I was just wondering if anyone else has leaked maybe a bit of their fluid and hasnt known it.
Is it possible to leak amniotic fluid and not know it?
First, follow your gut, if you feel you need to get medical attention do. My guess rather than leaking fluid is cervical discharge. You were in a pool with all sorts of germs and invaders that your body is protecting you and the baby from. Cervical discharge is designed to protect the baby from germs and bacteria and anything else that could potentially cause a problem. As your pregnancy goes along you can have more discharge that gets thicker and even enough so you might have to wear a liner. Each pregnancy is different but there are the big signs that there is a problem, heavy bleeding, clots, extreme cramping, passing out, severe swelling of hands and face but there are many symptoms that are not so common that are normal so be calm. Easier said than done for a first time mother. Again if you feel you need to speak with a medical professional for the health of your baby and yourself by all means do. Best wishes for a happy and healthy pregnancy.
Is it possible to leak amniotic fluid and not know it?
If you are losing fluid it will continue all the way until the baby is born. If you don't experience anymore fluid in the next hour or so it's pretty safe to say that it wasn't fluid but more likely either your bladder or from the pool.
Labor doesn't necessarily start after your water breaks but the fluid does always continue to flow.
Yes. Your water is probably leaking. This happened to me when I had my daughter. A couple days before I went to the hospital, I noticed there was a wet spot in my bed when I woke in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom. But I didn't think anything of it, I just thought it could have been sweat or something. Then the next day I thought I peed a little in my pants, and didn't think anything of it. Then the day I went to the hospital I had just gotten out of the shower and I was completely dried off and liquid dripped down my leg. And it was a really strong smell like chlorine or cleaning products. So I went to the hospital, and they checked to see if my water broke, and sure enough IT DID. They did an ultrasound and told me it looked like my water broke a few days before, because my fluid levels were low. But it was a good thing I came in when I did, because (I don't want to scare you) but if the water levels are too low there could be a risk of the baby being still born and getting an infection. So if I were you, it's better to be safe then sorry. Go to the hospital and have them check! Good luck and congratulations ahead of time on your new baby. =]
Yes, it is possible. With my second, I was leaking and didn't know it because her head was wedged down there and kept it to a slow leak, no big gush. And I didn't go into labor like they say, %26quot;oh, if your water breaks, you'll automatically go into labor.%26quot; I didn't.
It's better to go in and have it checked, you might feel a little silly, and it's kind of a hassle, but it's better safe than sorry. Your baby is at risk for infections, so don't insert anything into your vagina until you've been tested: meaning, no sex until you know for sure.
Good luck!
Is it possible to leak amniotic fluid and not know it?
First, follow your gut, if you feel you need to get medical attention do. My guess rather than leaking fluid is cervical discharge. You were in a pool with all sorts of germs and invaders that your body is protecting you and the baby from. Cervical discharge is designed to protect the baby from germs and bacteria and anything else that could potentially cause a problem. As your pregnancy goes along you can have more discharge that gets thicker and even enough so you might have to wear a liner. Each pregnancy is different but there are the big signs that there is a problem, heavy bleeding, clots, extreme cramping, passing out, severe swelling of hands and face but there are many symptoms that are not so common that are normal so be calm. Easier said than done for a first time mother. Again if you feel you need to speak with a medical professional for the health of your baby and yourself by all means do. Best wishes for a happy and healthy pregnancy.
Is it possible to leak amniotic fluid and not know it?
If you are losing fluid it will continue all the way until the baby is born. If you don't experience anymore fluid in the next hour or so it's pretty safe to say that it wasn't fluid but more likely either your bladder or from the pool.
Labor doesn't necessarily start after your water breaks but the fluid does always continue to flow.
Yes. Your water is probably leaking. This happened to me when I had my daughter. A couple days before I went to the hospital, I noticed there was a wet spot in my bed when I woke in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom. But I didn't think anything of it, I just thought it could have been sweat or something. Then the next day I thought I peed a little in my pants, and didn't think anything of it. Then the day I went to the hospital I had just gotten out of the shower and I was completely dried off and liquid dripped down my leg. And it was a really strong smell like chlorine or cleaning products. So I went to the hospital, and they checked to see if my water broke, and sure enough IT DID. They did an ultrasound and told me it looked like my water broke a few days before, because my fluid levels were low. But it was a good thing I came in when I did, because (I don't want to scare you) but if the water levels are too low there could be a risk of the baby being still born and getting an infection. So if I were you, it's better to be safe then sorry. Go to the hospital and have them check! Good luck and congratulations ahead of time on your new baby. =]
Yes, it is possible. With my second, I was leaking and didn't know it because her head was wedged down there and kept it to a slow leak, no big gush. And I didn't go into labor like they say, %26quot;oh, if your water breaks, you'll automatically go into labor.%26quot; I didn't.
It's better to go in and have it checked, you might feel a little silly, and it's kind of a hassle, but it's better safe than sorry. Your baby is at risk for infections, so don't insert anything into your vagina until you've been tested: meaning, no sex until you know for sure.
Good luck!
Help my 91 eldorado caddy is leaking power steering fluid?
I noticed last week i heard a strange noise when i turned the car. We checked the car no power steering fluid. We put some in Sunday and on wednday had to put some more again. Ironically the water pump blew on wednesday so when the mechanic changed the water pump he said he didn't see the leak. I put some more power steering fluid in on wednesday. It seems i am putting fluid in every three days. The noise is pretty loud when you turn and i don't have any money until next friday to get the car fixed. Is there any sealant to use or is it possible a leak or is something broken. When i poured the power sterring in this evening after i put some in earlier today i noticed the resovoir is brown. Help!! I have to drive to work for the next couple of days as i have doctors appointments that are urgent. I was told to try to get some sealant but is it too late?
Help my 91 eldorado caddy is leaking power steering fluid?
There are products in auto parts stores that claim to stop the leak; I have no personal experience with them. Read the labels and try to choose the best one
Help my 91 eldorado caddy is leaking power steering fluid?
look under the vehicle , if it has a return line cooler (looks like a really small rad) these were common problems for leaks, if so , you can cut the steel portion of the line flare the end with a brake line flare tool , slip on some higher pressure hose with gear clamps , tighten and refill the res turn the wheel back and forth (vehicle off) about 12 times lock to lock to bleed the air out , check fluid and try this. the noise you are hearing is the internals of the ps pump. no sealant will fix that bad of a leak. but lucas ps additive will help with pump noise.
well being low on fluid wouldnt necesarily cause any noise jus rough turning.... if its a grinding noise and the steering wheels seems to catch it is more than likely your rack an pinion assembly
don't think that it is to late but seeing how your me ch looked at it and found now leak it may not be leaking or your me ch didn't look your steering SYSTEM may have got ting air bound and as you try to turn your wheel it blows the Fluid out the feeler cap?
but with out my salf getting in underneath that is the best i can say
Help my 91 eldorado caddy is leaking power steering fluid?
There are products in auto parts stores that claim to stop the leak; I have no personal experience with them. Read the labels and try to choose the best one
Help my 91 eldorado caddy is leaking power steering fluid?
look under the vehicle , if it has a return line cooler (looks like a really small rad) these were common problems for leaks, if so , you can cut the steel portion of the line flare the end with a brake line flare tool , slip on some higher pressure hose with gear clamps , tighten and refill the res turn the wheel back and forth (vehicle off) about 12 times lock to lock to bleed the air out , check fluid and try this. the noise you are hearing is the internals of the ps pump. no sealant will fix that bad of a leak. but lucas ps additive will help with pump noise.
well being low on fluid wouldnt necesarily cause any noise jus rough turning.... if its a grinding noise and the steering wheels seems to catch it is more than likely your rack an pinion assembly
don't think that it is to late but seeing how your me ch looked at it and found now leak it may not be leaking or your me ch didn't look your steering SYSTEM may have got ting air bound and as you try to turn your wheel it blows the Fluid out the feeler cap?
but with out my salf getting in underneath that is the best i can say
Possibly leaking amniotic fluid?
I know I already asked but I didn't really get a definite answer, so here I go again. Today I went swimming to ease my pregnancy symptoms, and when I got back inside, I changed out of my swim suit and wrapped a towel around myself, i was pretty much dried off. I sat on the bed to put my shorts on, and got up and went back to the bathroom. When I came back into my bedroom I noticed a pretty big wet mark on my bed where I sat, it wasn't like alot, because Ive been expecting a big gush when my water breaks, but if it were just because i got out of the pool and still had water on me, there was too much for that. I havent been feeling any contractions or anything, but I was just wondering if anyone else has leaked maybe a bit of their fluid and hasn't known it.
By the way, since the wet spot, I havent had constant leaking, Im wet down there, and its not thick like vaginal discharge, its like water wet, but not dripping or leaking, should I be going to the hospital or am I over-reacting.
Possibly leaking amniotic fluid?
Hi,
I did %26quot;spring a leak%26quot; as my doctor called it the night before my son was born.
A dog bit at my ankle and I jumped thus is how i sprang my leak. I thought I just pee'd. At my check up the next morning they said because of the leak they were just going to go ahead and break my water. Which they did and my son flew out.
So it is possible but I think that in your case maybe it was from just being in the pool. If you have any concern tho you should contact your doctor.
Possibly leaking amniotic fluid?
I leaked when my water broke with 1 of my kids. It was just little dripping. My contractions were weird too. I kept thinking I had to go to the bathroom. I went to the hospital because the bathroom trips were annoying and the constant wet feeling bothered me and they told me I was in labor and that my water broke. I was 4 cm so they admitted me.
Then they took that crochet hook looking thing and ripped the water bag more and the gush happened.
It was a relief but then the contractions came strong.
By the way, since the wet spot, I havent had constant leaking, Im wet down there, and its not thick like vaginal discharge, its like water wet, but not dripping or leaking, should I be going to the hospital or am I over-reacting.
Possibly leaking amniotic fluid?
Hi,
I did %26quot;spring a leak%26quot; as my doctor called it the night before my son was born.
A dog bit at my ankle and I jumped thus is how i sprang my leak. I thought I just pee'd. At my check up the next morning they said because of the leak they were just going to go ahead and break my water. Which they did and my son flew out.
So it is possible but I think that in your case maybe it was from just being in the pool. If you have any concern tho you should contact your doctor.
Possibly leaking amniotic fluid?
I leaked when my water broke with 1 of my kids. It was just little dripping. My contractions were weird too. I kept thinking I had to go to the bathroom. I went to the hospital because the bathroom trips were annoying and the constant wet feeling bothered me and they told me I was in labor and that my water broke. I was 4 cm so they admitted me.
Then they took that crochet hook looking thing and ripped the water bag more and the gush happened.
It was a relief but then the contractions came strong.
Think i'm leaking amniotic fluid?
I'm not quite sure, but I'm going in to start to have my baby on Sunday. Today I noticed a BIG change in my discharge. I'm having more white creamy discharge and my underwear and saturated with clear liquid kind of like water. I'm having cramps like pressure but I have been having that for a long time and I was told that was normal. Should I go to the hospital or just continue to monitor everything? How fast should contractions start coming after your water breaks? i tried calling the hospital already and they are just telling me that if i think my water broke then to come in.. the doctor is 1 hr away and i don't want to go in and waste the gas money if it's just a simple thing and its not amniotic fluid.
Think i'm leaking amniotic fluid?
Go in to the hospital. Wasting a little money is way better than having your baby at home or in the car on the drive to the hospital!
Think i'm leaking amniotic fluid?
GO TO THE HOSPITAL!
It sounds like you lost your mucus plug and your water broke.
Monitor your cramps. When they become more regular and can be timed call the hospital back.
After my water broke my contractions never started, they had to induce me both times.
Good Luck!
Go to the hospital NOW! Good Luck, and God Bless
Amontic fluid looks like clear water and so people don't get strong contractions after their water breaks. When mine broke they had to give me Pitcin to get things moving. I would go to the hospital because it's better to be safe than sorry.
You should go in and get checked!!! If there your doctor has other doctors at their practice you may be able to get one of them to check you. My water broke like that and I did not know it. When I started having contractions and went in the dr was worried about how long my water had been broken since the babies head was blocking %26quot;the flow%26quot;. The worst thing that will happen when you get to the hospital is they will send you home. But you will go home knowing your baby is okay! They also won't call your dr until they confirm you are in labor so no big deal there. Good luck and Congrats!!!
With my second, my water began to leak, and the nurse thought it must have been from the top of the bag. It began leaking at 11am and I by admittance in the hospital at 2pm my water was flowing out pretty good. I didn't know by then, cause I was sitting on a pile of pads! My contractions began the night before, maybe close to 1 or 2 am, but they never got intense until after I noticed the leak.
I could tell it was different, cause I went to pee and it didn't stop. It didn't just keep flowing or entirely gush, although I knew it had to be the water. It doesn't contain mucus, although that could be the plug. You may see some reddish discharge with the leak, but I would call and let the doc know atleast.
Oh please! You can go for ever with a broken bag of water and still not go into labor. Wait until you have contractions the hospital will admit you if your water bag is broken and give you 24 hours to have your baby. They are afraid of infection but as long as you don't have a fever your not really in danger. I go at 511, contractions 5 minutes apart lasting 1 minute long for 1 hour. That should get you there in plenty of time. Otherwise you get stuck there and they don't let you eat and check you constantly. Sounds like the loss of the mucus plug and maybe a little bit of water, just put on a pad and have a good lunch, hang out, watch a movie.
It is a little late to order now, but they do have a kit you can buy called AmnioSense Panty Liners. They are liners that you can wear and it will indicate whether you are leaking fluid or not. Also, the cost beats the price of going to the emergency room with the same result of having a definite answer.
You have to go to the hospital because if your water did break and you dont have the baby in a certain time span you could end up having problems and it is also dangerous for the baby...just go and check I would rather do that than have something happen. Better safe than sorry. Good luck.codes for myspace human body skin
Think i'm leaking amniotic fluid?
Go in to the hospital. Wasting a little money is way better than having your baby at home or in the car on the drive to the hospital!
Think i'm leaking amniotic fluid?
GO TO THE HOSPITAL!
It sounds like you lost your mucus plug and your water broke.
Monitor your cramps. When they become more regular and can be timed call the hospital back.
After my water broke my contractions never started, they had to induce me both times.
Good Luck!
Go to the hospital NOW! Good Luck, and God Bless
Amontic fluid looks like clear water and so people don't get strong contractions after their water breaks. When mine broke they had to give me Pitcin to get things moving. I would go to the hospital because it's better to be safe than sorry.
You should go in and get checked!!! If there your doctor has other doctors at their practice you may be able to get one of them to check you. My water broke like that and I did not know it. When I started having contractions and went in the dr was worried about how long my water had been broken since the babies head was blocking %26quot;the flow%26quot;. The worst thing that will happen when you get to the hospital is they will send you home. But you will go home knowing your baby is okay! They also won't call your dr until they confirm you are in labor so no big deal there. Good luck and Congrats!!!
With my second, my water began to leak, and the nurse thought it must have been from the top of the bag. It began leaking at 11am and I by admittance in the hospital at 2pm my water was flowing out pretty good. I didn't know by then, cause I was sitting on a pile of pads! My contractions began the night before, maybe close to 1 or 2 am, but they never got intense until after I noticed the leak.
I could tell it was different, cause I went to pee and it didn't stop. It didn't just keep flowing or entirely gush, although I knew it had to be the water. It doesn't contain mucus, although that could be the plug. You may see some reddish discharge with the leak, but I would call and let the doc know atleast.
Oh please! You can go for ever with a broken bag of water and still not go into labor. Wait until you have contractions the hospital will admit you if your water bag is broken and give you 24 hours to have your baby. They are afraid of infection but as long as you don't have a fever your not really in danger. I go at 511, contractions 5 minutes apart lasting 1 minute long for 1 hour. That should get you there in plenty of time. Otherwise you get stuck there and they don't let you eat and check you constantly. Sounds like the loss of the mucus plug and maybe a little bit of water, just put on a pad and have a good lunch, hang out, watch a movie.
It is a little late to order now, but they do have a kit you can buy called AmnioSense Panty Liners. They are liners that you can wear and it will indicate whether you are leaking fluid or not. Also, the cost beats the price of going to the emergency room with the same result of having a definite answer.
You have to go to the hospital because if your water did break and you dont have the baby in a certain time span you could end up having problems and it is also dangerous for the baby...just go and check I would rather do that than have something happen. Better safe than sorry. Good luck.
I have some white smoke coming out of my exhaust?
Ive read that if there is white smoke coming from the exhaust, it could be that the coolant is leaking into the engine. My car just started doing that about two days ago -- happens only occasionally, and the smoke isnt all that thick nor does it smell. I was hoping that it only happened directly after I started the engine, but its done it as well after I've driven the car for about ten minutes and then parked it, but kept the engine running. I'm not sure if its just vapor...there wss some fluid coming out of the pipe yesterday. I checked the level of coolant and it hasnt changed a bit. I talked to a mechanic who looked at it quickly and he didnt think it would be a problem, though he didnt see the smoke -- I live in Japan, so perhaps the problem was lost in translation. The car drives as it always has and there are no indications that it will overheat. any ideas? is it the coolant -- a broken gasket head? My car is an automatic sedan -- uses only unleaded fuel.
I have some white smoke coming out of my exhaust?
More than likely it is coming from you catalytic converter on exhaust system. Water does build up in this part of exhaust system. It is a by produce of what the converter does. Will do it more when you first start off than after you run for a while.
As long as your coolant does not go down you are ok with the head gasket stuff lol no problem there.
If Head gasket was bad you would also see car trying to over heat at times.
I have some white smoke coming out of my exhaust?
sounds like the cylinder head gasket - thats what happened to my car. Check your oil levels
It was my valve cover gasket.
Yup, probably a coolant leak , into the cylinders.
white smoke is usually nothing. what color is the fluid coming out of your tailpipe? as long as its not black, you should be fine. when my headgasket blew (86 subaru) the oil covver was loaded with a white foam, and the tailpipe was puking blue smoke. usually only black smoke is cause for worry
I think you're burning water. See a mechanic he could recommend something.
white smoke out the tall pipe is the first sign of a bad head gasket,
Sounds like the head gasket to me. While the car is running pull you dipstick. If it looks like chocolate milk it is definitely you head gasket.
I have some white smoke coming out of my exhaust?
More than likely it is coming from you catalytic converter on exhaust system. Water does build up in this part of exhaust system. It is a by produce of what the converter does. Will do it more when you first start off than after you run for a while.
As long as your coolant does not go down you are ok with the head gasket stuff lol no problem there.
If Head gasket was bad you would also see car trying to over heat at times.
I have some white smoke coming out of my exhaust?
sounds like the cylinder head gasket - thats what happened to my car. Check your oil levels
It was my valve cover gasket.
Yup, probably a coolant leak , into the cylinders.
white smoke is usually nothing. what color is the fluid coming out of your tailpipe? as long as its not black, you should be fine. when my headgasket blew (86 subaru) the oil covver was loaded with a white foam, and the tailpipe was puking blue smoke. usually only black smoke is cause for worry
I think you're burning water. See a mechanic he could recommend something.
white smoke out the tall pipe is the first sign of a bad head gasket,
Sounds like the head gasket to me. While the car is running pull you dipstick. If it looks like chocolate milk it is definitely you head gasket.
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